S197 3V Fabman's build; How did we get here? Build Thread

[XJCasper]

**Fab Fun**
What do you do when no-one makes a fan shroud for your customers radiator?
You start from scratch......

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Looks bad ass

 

[GAR944]

**Fab Fun**
What do you do when no-one makes a fan shroud for your customers radiator?
You start from scratch......

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Because i never manage to do things the simple and easy way, can i ask the question, you know i'm going to anyway. Is there any reason / benefit of ducting just the fan diameter direct to the radiator surface forcing the fan to pull through just that surface area. You only need the fans when you are going slow and everyone here knows you never go slow. That way the rest of the shroud/fan mount could be skeletonised to get the benefit of the forced air flow when moving that would probably exceed the fan throughput.
Just a thought from a curious mind.
Love your work and those cute little corner welds. Have a TIG course Wednesday night so i can see how crap a job i'm capable of.

 

[Dave_W]

the shroud/fan mount could be skeletonised to get the benefit of the forced air flow when moving

The air that the fans pull will always take the path of least resistance. So if you have openings in the shroud, the fans will pull air through those instead of through the radiator. If you don't use a shroud and mount the fans against the radiator, the fans are no longer pulling air through the entire radiator, reducing the cooling capability. Just going on gut instinct, but two large fan openings shouldn't create much resistance at high speed, at least not enough to affect cooling. If you really want to be fancy, you can do what Ford did on the GT500 shroud and add one-way flappers (i.e., air flow check valves) over extra vent holes in the shroud.

2005-2014 MUSTANG PERFORMANCE COOLING FAN

2005-2014 MUSTANG PERFORMANCE COOLING FAN|Ford Performance Parts

performanceparts.ford.com

Flappers closed

Flappers open

 

[Fabman]

The air that the fans pull will always take the path of least resistance. So if you have openings in the shroud, the fans will pull air through those instead of through the radiator. If you don't use a shroud and mount the fans against the radiator, the fans are no longer pulling air through the entire radiator, reducing the cooling capability. Just going on gut instinct, but two large fan openings shouldn't create much resistance at high speed, at least not enough to affect cooling. If you really want to be fancy, you can do what Ford did on the GT500 shroud and add one-way flappers (i.e., air flow check valves) over extra vent holes in the shroud.

2005-2014 MUSTANG PERFORMANCE COOLING FAN

2005-2014 MUSTANG PERFORMANCE COOLING FAN|Ford Performance Parts

performanceparts.ford.com

Flappers closed
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Flappers open
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This is the exact fan I have on frankenstang. It’s super efficient. I only turn it on as I’m pulling off the track. The car stays plenty cool on track. I have considered just running an aftermarket fan with no shroud to more easily let the air through on track but this works so well it hasn’t become a priority. The fan shroud I made for my customer is for a street car so it’s less of a concern.

 

[Fabman]

Because i never manage to do things the simple and easy way, can i ask the question, you know i'm going to anyway. Is there any reason / benefit of ducting just the fan diameter direct to the radiator surface forcing the fan to pull through just that surface area. You only need the fans when you are going slow and everyone here knows you never go slow. That way the rest of the shroud/fan mount could be skeletonised to get the benefit of the forced air flow when moving that would probably exceed the fan throughput.
Just a thought from a curious mind.
Love your work and those cute little corner welds. Have a TIG course Wednesday night so i can see how crap a job i'm capable of.

See my post above.

 

[Fabman]

And she's back together....Got an alternator, ball joints, new FRPP hubs to go on next week, then some misc. minor repairs and she'll be ready to go.

 

[Ludachris]

 

[Fabman]

Well, We found the charging problem.
Under the rubber boot the ring terminal was broken.
This should be a cheap and easy fix.

 

[Fabman]

Okay, we’re installing a transmission temperature gauge to see just how hot this thing is really getting.
My guess is “Too hot” but I’d like to have this data point to compare with a future cooler if that is deemed necessary.

 

[Fabman]

Welp, looks like a nice big sponsorship opportunity just opened up on the hood of old Frankenstang. If anybody wants to throw money at it now is the time!

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

And she's back together....Got an alternator, ball joints, new FRPP hubs to go on next week, then some misc. minor repairs and she'll be ready to go.

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Do you have a link to those muffler hangers/isolation blocks? Lost one of my welded-on hangers from the Roush mufflers and debating trying to fabricobble a new hanger or just bolt some stuff on.

 

[Fabman]

Do you have a link to those muffler hangers/isolation blocks? Lost one of my welded-on hangers from the Roush mufflers and debating trying to fabricobble a new hanger or just bolt some stuff on.

They are just generic rubber muffler hangers used in every muffler shop. Nothing special. I fabbed up some metal extension brackets to reach the tapped holes in the arch over the differential. I can take some close ups for you on Monday, but it’s really nothing fancy.

 

[Fabman]

@ArizonaBOSS

Like this:

Pardon Our Interruption

The summit ones look thin and crappy but this is the general flavor of hanger I used.

 

[Fabman]

Autometer 9000 RPM memory tach and distributerless adapter.
Only in the car for about 6 races....turns out I never looked at it so I replaced it with a shift light.
$511.00 plus shipping/tax when purchased new. Will take $250.00. Will ship at buyers expense.
Perfect condition but has one scratch on the bezel from sitting in a box in the shop.

 

[Fabman]

Do you have a link to those muffler hangers/isolation blocks? Lost one of my welded-on hangers from the Roush mufflers and debating trying to fabricobble a new hanger or just bolt some stuff on.

Its important to use 2 bolts otherwise they will swing back and forth and break stuff. This keeps everything where it needs to be.
I think these actually are from Summit....sometimes you get nice beefy ones and sometimes they are thin and crappy....the ones I got look pretty good.
The pic on the summit site looks thin. I guess you get what you get.

 

[302BOB]

Sal,I I've been watching Frankenstang"morph" thru out the years and I gotta say She has a mind of Her own and you're just along for the ride......hang on!!!!!

 

[Fabman]

Do you have a link to those muffler hangers/isolation blocks? Lost one of my welded-on hangers from the Roush mufflers and debating trying to fabricobble a new hanger or just bolt some stuff on.

Okay here is a better number...these are long enough to be useful.

Pardon Our Interruption

Pardon Our Interruption

Anyway, you get the idea....something like this is what I'm using.
I managed a couple muffler shop chains back in the day and have a lot of experience with these so its my go to.
Your local muffler shop should have these on hand. If they don't I wouldn't shop there. lol.

 

[JeffV8]

And she's back together....Got an alternator, ball joints, new FRPP hubs to go on next week, then some misc. minor repairs and she'll be ready to go.

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Wish mine would be that easy

 

[Fabman]

I have a clean 55 gal fuel drum that I bought new (full) from Sunoco that I no longer need.
It’s never had anything but fuel in it.
Free to good home if you pick up at my shop in Pleasanton.

 

[Fabman]

Second year in a row....best welder in the tri-valley area award.