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S197 3V Fabman's build; How did we get here? Build Thread

3,576
2,847
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Sorry full of questions. What was your oil pressure with all the mods? I was a little worried that my pressure went down after all the mods (I missed that about the oil pump). Was that with that with the square 350/30-18 Hoosiers? What where your impressions of the handling and braking compared to the previous setup?? Very interested to see your take on the Cortex SLA setup.

Was great to see those stock cars struggle trying to pass you!

I forgot that you had the electric water pump. Makes me feel just a tad bit better about my dyno numbers.
No problem, ask away.
Oil pressure is good. Go back to the test day video I posted earlier. In that video the inside of the car was lit up well enough to read the gauges as I drove. The oil pressure gauge is the 3rd one from the left. You can cast it to a smart TV and watch it on a big screen and see all the gauges in action very clearly.
Tires are my usual 335/30/18 square R7's. The cortex SLA rocks. That coupled with the aero mods and rear sway bar delete is whats working for me. The old setup was just too high to get any significant downforce from the splitter.
Two of those stock cars are sporting 1000 hp Nascar motors.
 
3,576
2,847
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Sorry full of questions. What was your oil pressure with all the mods? I was a little worried that my pressure went down after all the mods (I missed that about the oil pump). Was that with that with the square 350/30-18 Hoosiers? What where your impressions of the handling and braking compared to the previous setup?? Very interested to see your take on the Cortex SLA setup.

Was great to see those stock cars struggle trying to pass you!

I forgot that you had the electric water pump. Makes me feel just a tad bit better about my dyno numbers.
Remember, this is a gen 2 Coyote, they start out with more power than a gen 1.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
3,557
2,079
Santiago, Chile
Remember, this is a gen 2 Coyote, they start out with more power than a gen 1.

True, but my junkyard gen1 heads where ported and polished with bigger valves... Am getting 468rwhp, but with 26degrees advance and 3 degrees knock. mean to get Shaun to look at that when he has time.;). Thats with 93 pump gas. In the end very similar numbers.

I got the impression that the stockcars had the wrong gearing for the track??
 
3,576
2,847
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
True, but my junkyard gen1 heads where ported and polished with bigger valves... Am getting 468rwhp, but with 26degrees advance and 3 degrees knock. mean to get Shaun to look at that when he has time.;). Thats with 93 pump gas. In the end very similar numbers.

I got the impression that the stockcars had the wrong gearing for the track??
No they run here all the time. Probably too cold to get traction, it was a cool morning at 8:30 am. I warm my tires aggressively for this very reason.
The guy in the blue stock car came over to me afterwards and said if I hadn’t broke too deep in that one corner they never would have been able to get by me. Not sure if that was a complaint or a compliment but he did mention several times how fast the car was. A lot of folks came to check it out afterwards. New kid on the block and all....
 
3,576
2,847
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
True, but my junkyard gen1 heads where ported and polished with bigger valves... Am getting 468rwhp, but with 26degrees advance and 3 degrees knock. mean to get Shaun to look at that when he has time.;). Thats with 93 pump gas. In the end very similar numbers.

I got the impression that the stockcars had the wrong gearing for the track??
Can you guys run e85? It was worth about 12 hp with the tune update over 91 pump gas. Plus it’s cheap and runs cool.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
3,557
2,079
Santiago, Chile
No they run here all the time. Probably too cold to get traction, it was a cool morning at 8:30 am. I warm my tires aggressively for this very reason.
The guy in the blue stock car came over to me afterwards and said if I hadn’t broke too deep in that one corner they never would have been able to get by me. Not sure if that was a complaint or a compliment but he did mention several times how fast the car was. A lot of folks came to check it out afterwards. New kid on the block and all....
He probably meant both!!
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
223
222
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
I'd say loose connection or interference as prime suspects. Don't overlook the ground side. Try grounding both the tach and the adapter (AutoMeter 9117?) to the block. https://www.autometer.com/blog/faq-post/where-is-the-best-ground-for-autometer-gauges/

It may also be a "feature" of the tach's fast response rate. This video seems very similar and has a cheap & easy fix that may work: https://www.autometer.com/blog/faq-post/my-tach-pointer-is-erratic-jumpy/

AutoMeter has part #9116 tach signal filter "Designed to help correct bouncy, or spiking tachometer operation caused by points or noisy ignitions." Not sure if it's any better than the cheap fix above.

Probably not an issue, but make sure the tach adapter is wired to a coil supply voltage wire that's common to all coils, not the ECU trigger wire for a single coil - see the "Connecting to an Individual Coil Per Plug Ignition System" graphic on the wiring diagram.

You can also call their tech line 866.248.6356 M-F 8-5 Central.
 
3,576
2,847
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I'd say loose connection or interference as prime suspects. Don't overlook the ground side. Try grounding both the tach and the adapter (AutoMeter 9117?) to the block. https://www.autometer.com/blog/faq-post/where-is-the-best-ground-for-autometer-gauges/

It may also be a "feature" of the tach's fast response rate. This video seems very similar and has a cheap & easy fix that may work: https://www.autometer.com/blog/faq-post/my-tach-pointer-is-erratic-jumpy/

AutoMeter has part #9116 tach signal filter "Designed to help correct bouncy, or spiking tachometer operation caused by points or noisy ignitions." Not sure if it's any better than the cheap fix above.

Probably not an issue, but make sure the tach adapter is wired to a coil supply voltage wire that's common to all coils, not the ECU trigger wire for a single coil - see the "Connecting to an Individual Coil Per Plug Ignition System" graphic on the wiring diagram.

You can also call their tech line 866.248.6356 M-F 8-5 Central.
Thanks we'll look into these.
 
3,576
2,847
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
First two races:
First and second places. lol.

45A983BF-9AD9-4179-8E4B-B7285F064B56.jpeg
 

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