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Ran across this thread and knew that American Muscle listed the specs in their “Tech Specs” of the SR Performance Spring. (I had been eying these) On their website. I did see where you asked if there was a second source so if you already knew if this one, my apologies.How about this: what is y'alls confidence level that the posted SR rates are reliable?
Thank you for posting this!Ran across this thread and knew that American Muscle listed the specs in their “Tech Specs” of the SR Performance Spring. (I had been eying these) On their website. I did see where you asked if there was a second source so if you already knew if this one, my apologies.
SR Performance Mustang Lowering Springs 53151 (05-14 Mustang GT Coupe, V6 Coupe) - Free ShippingFREE SHIPPING! Improves Handling. Installing a set of SR Performance Progressive Rate Springs will lower your Mustang's center of gravity, which will reduce squwww.americanmuscle.com
Remember those are a progressive rate spring, so the 230fr/200r is most likely an average rate. They are going to start out somewhat softer and progressively get stiffer to a maximum rate somewhat higher than what it is listed.Thank you for posting this!
Wow do I feel like a nincompoop. I searched American's Muscle's site and did not see the section that you referenced. If it was a snake it would have bit me, as they say. facepalm.jpg
Yes sir.Remember those are a progressive rate spring, so the 230fr/200r is most likely an average rate. They are going to start out somewhat softer and progressively get stiffer to a maximum rate somewhat higher than what it is listed.
Sorry, I thought I had responded. Thank you, Eric—the dampers have < 15K miles on them and look to be in great shape.I ran the oranges with linear rate Steeda Sport springs (200 frt/ 175 rr) for several years. It was a good combination for street/track use. The SR spring rates aren't too much different so I think they would be fine as long as they are not worn too much.
Front end links might be worthwhile. Double check your car but on my '11 GT the front sway was glued to the bushings, I think to prevent squeaking, so if you adjusted the ride height it would creating some additional spring rate. How much I don't know. I just replaced the whole bar with new links at the same time.How do you all feel about installing adjustable end-links on the stock front sway bar?
How do you all feel about leaving the rear sway and end-links as-is (stock)?
Should I at least install adjustable end-links on the stock rear sway?
Front end links might be worthwhile. Double check your car but on my '11 GT the front sway was glued to the bushings, I think to prevent squeaking, so if you adjusted the ride height it would creating some additional spring rate. How much I don't know. I just replaced the whole bar with new links at the same time.
The rear sway doesn't have end links so you can't adjust that. A lot of people feel the stock rear sway bar is too big.
Thank you for the advice. I will most likely get the 18mm Dorman bar as suggested by mwjscn (original post quoted).Just an FYI that what Cortex will send you if you buy their 'Ford 18mm rear bar' listing is Dorman 927-203. You can find this kit on RockAuto for $90 and Amazon for $100.
Excellent points. Thank you for provoking thoughts about actual rates vs. simple diameters.I'd keep your front bar rate in mind and choose one based on your application rather than just on brand name. BMR is good about sending you the bar rate information when asked for it, which can't be said for all manufacturers, and from my experience have been great with customer communication and assistance. However, their adjustment range is often significantly stiffer than the competition.
I have experience using their older 38mm hollow 5-position front bar SB041. Spring rates for that bar were 706, 788, 886, 1002, and 1144. Based on my estimate, the stiffest position available on the Steeda competition front swaybar is about 80-100 lb/inch less than the first position on that bar. The comparison is a flawed since I do not know the rates of the newer SB754 bar you posted and it has one less mounting position, but I suggest you inquire with BMR on the rates prior to ordering as perhaps they reined it in on this recent iteration.
The below Steeda rates are inferred since they were not willing to divulge the exact numbers, but they told me how they performed their calculations. The stock GT front swaybar has a rate of 436 lbs/inch. The marketing % increase noted over a 'Factory GT' front bar is measured from the middle of the three available positions. For the Steeda non-competition bar, this places the middle mounting position bar rate at about 480 and for the competition bar about 554. What that means is the non-competition bar allows you to do is tune in a range just above the factory GT bar rate, which may be beneficial if it's primarily a street car that will see broken pavement. If you feel like you want to go one step stiffer, the competition bar may be worth looking into as an option. While the two Steeda options are the same externally, they achieved the different rates by using different thickness tubing. The street bar is .090" and the comp bar is .120".
Discussing options with Koni regarding my Mustang SVO I was always under the impression the orange struts were too soft for any real aggressive use. I'm not saying they don't/can't work well on course as I ran them for years. But if I was spending money on a car seeing anything but street duty why even take the chance. The yellows are perfectly comfortable on the street as well IMO.How do y'all feel about the SR's rates matched to Oranges? Should I be on Yellows?