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S197 First Fun Car Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

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185
149
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
So we bought this car used from a dealership out of Kingland GA (btw, that's a long drive to do in one day from south Nashville-ish area). Clean title, two prior owners, should have walked away, but it was my first car and stupid won that day. Pulling out of the lot the thing went into limp mode, mind you this was like sign number 22, took it to "their" shop down the road, diagnosed it for a few hours and the shop guy thought it was a bad throttle body. Said it was super dirty and the plate was actually sticking (gosh I wish I could have verified that with my own eyes, but I was busy sitting and eating lunch thinking logically like "I should just walk away from this deal, there's others"). Got it running and drove home no issues... for about a week. Happened again and ordered an Accu-Fab F84.5 tb, then splurged with the Boss 302 intake manifold to go along with the JLT series II cai I had put on almost immediately cause the air filter was dirty (that's what I told my wife). When Pop and I started installing all of these important and necessary parts we found the culprit... a loose pin and another that simply wouldnt' stay in on the 6 wire inline needless plug Ford uses to make their production line more efficient ...pfft! which attaches the throttle body plug. Yeah, it'd just fall out! Oh well, better install these performance parts just incase !

There were quite a few other bogus items:
  • I found like the evap return line that was melted through and repaired with a carefully tubularized (word?) application of electrical tape ("that'll do" mentality for the WIN).
  • Then I realized there's this whole length of wire running along the fuel rail on the passenger side... that just looped back with one of the worst inline solder jobs known to man kind.
Speaking of soldering. I fixed that stupid 6 wire connector by eliminating it (showed that sucker who's boss) and soldering the wires. Now that it's soldered it's like being married, it's permanent. Taught my son (not pictured) and my nephew (pictured) how to solder! Pretty neat to get the young ones involved, then they were like "wow, this is really cool, now I can solder things in my airsoft guns!" ... and I'm like "Yeah, but cars."! I know people say don't solder lines, they'll break... well, I did shrink wrap on each of the 6 wires and then shrink wrap over all 6 connections so they can't vibrate and crack.

Got a tune from a place down in New Smyrna FL and they can't figure out how to get the throttle to respond smooth and seamless. So, gonna have Shaun at AED fix that... hopefully soon. It's really hard to slip the clutch when the throttle plays pretend.

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Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,370
8,237
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Well Mr. Peanut it looks like you are out of our shell, and on the long and loving road modding your Mustang mistress. You said it first, but I do believe you are on the way to a marriage of modding for life. Welcome to the party and do remember to kiss her goodnight!
 
185
149
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
Ha! Thanks Bill!

To keep the story going and get up to date... Ford Fest was coming and driving a Mustang that had a prolonged bob in the front end after hitting road bumps just wasn't cool (not quite Uncle Buck, but it was getting there). I just happened to find The Drive's video on YouTube where they featured the Maximum Motorsports White Mustang ... my first thought was "Oh dang, I gotta get this car handling like that!" Called up and talked with Mike over there and parts were on the way. To my dismay, I have no pictures (shame). Installed their Road and Track Grip Box kit... kinda. Opted to go with J&M rear lower control arms and adjustable panhard bar with the spherical bearing on the axle side and the poly bushing body side, Eibach front anti-sway bar, the MM springs, Koni yellows, the improved bump stops, front Control Arm poly rear bushing, the MM caster/camber plates, MM relocation brackets. So much fun installing all of this until... doh! 1 wrong front strut was shipped (of course this was found at midnight)... missed Ford Fest. Mike was on it though, super nice guy, shipped out the correct one next day air and I finished the build the following week when I got back from FF.

Currently running Nitto NT555-G2 - 275 / 40 R19

One question... The Eibach front sway bar; suggestions on which hole to run when? and currently I am in the middle hole and have the adjustable end link fully shortened up and everything clears, no binding... assuming that's right too...?

Next up, clutch!
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,370
8,237
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
With your set up it might be good to call Mike back again, it sounds like you are an M&M advertising billboard. I suggest you do your numbers in M&M colors , peanut of course, not plain. Heh, it works for Mr. Peanut and you could even give out packages of M&Ms when at the track --- you will be super popular, ha!
 
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185
149
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
Last night was an easy one, replaced the stock 2pc drive shaft for a brand new Ford Performance (cough cough Spicer cough) 1pc aluminum drive shaft. Wow, what a difference! It now has the "feel" like I was looking for and it really should from the factory. Definitely some more NVH comes through when your getting on it as it pushes through 2500rpm up through 4000rpm, but this upgrade is so surprising to me how much of a noticeable feedback it gave. Solid and direct.

Now I'm really excited to get my ACT Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel installed!20220906_184958.jpg20220906_194645.jpg
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,493
5,169
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Agree totally. The one piece drive shaft and the MGW shifter are the best up grades I made to my Boss. I understand why they put the two piece in. The factory has to make everuone happy and the 2 pices drive shaft is quieter and smoother. Nice dog.
 
185
149
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
I think I'm going to ditch the Calimer cocktail and go back to the Motorcraft Transmission Oil/Fluid during the clutch/shifter install.

New rotors are next, really needed immediately. Install the MM Bump Steer kit. I want to double check the rear axles outer bearing race. Then hopefully a track day.

The Eaton Trutrac is on the short list.

Probably should get that Canton Road Coarse Oil Pan and the windage tray/crank scrapper Frankenstang uses. I have this concern in the back of my mind about the rods strength at 115k miles. The list just keeps going...
 
185
149
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
Hi Guys, it's time for some new brake rotors/discs ... reminds me of the motor vs engine thread. I've been hot to trot for 2 pc rotors front and rear, but man they're expensive. For a mostly street car that will hopefully see it's first HPDE events next year are the GT500 rear rotors a game changer? Or will I be happy with this setup? https://kohrmotorsports.com/product/stoptech-front-and-rear-rotor-kit/
 
42
23
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Texas
Did you make choice on rotors? I have a Stoptech kit w/14" 2 pc front rotors which I replaced recently. All I can really attest to is YES they are expensive. Whether they are worth it however, I've just not been able to make time to get the car prepped and to the track this past year, so no good seat of the pants data for you. I am running stock rears and have the GT500 rears on my 'List' as well. I also have Vorshlag 3" duct kit on the shelf which will be put on before it hits the track.

Keep us updated (or me anyways). Hope things are progressing on her better than mine.
 
6,289
8,021
great story, for this reason when I go car shopping, I bring a dis interested buddy (usually a Chevy guy) to go with me as a sounding board. It sounds like you are having fun with it though so that's the main point. If you are having fun and creating family time, that is really what grassroots hot rodding is all about. The fact that you can pass some of the skills down to future grnerations is just a plus.... well done.
Here's a link that you may find useful, there are tons of these around here since most of these guys are pretty hard core track rats.
 
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185
149
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
Hi Guys, I have pulled the trigger on a 2pc rotor setup for the 14" Brembo setup. Got an industry friendly deal on DBA 2pc front rotors and stock GT size rear rotors (DBA doesn't offer GT500 rear rotors)... still waiting for delivery though. :confused:

Since I'll be doing this I'm half tempted to set the GT size rear rotors on the shelf and buy some GT500's off RockAuto and the Bear adaptor kit.

My parts are really stacking up. I have the MM bump steer kit I need to do and thankfully I haven't done it yet as I read about Steeda's X11 extended stud ball joints on Billy Johnson's build. So those are also sitting on the shelf. The ACT Twin Disc Clutch is on the garage shelf too along with a braided stainless-steel line and separate reservoir. The list goes on...

I'm thinking hard about Canton's road race oil pan and if I'm that far in I'll replace the motor mounts for solid ones along with the oil lines across the back of the cylinder head. Geeze I could just keep typing of items.

Hoping to post some updates soon! Thanks guys, I appreciate it, and @blacksheep-1 I have watched your Super Beater thread from day one, great build! Maybe all of us in the Southeast can meet up at Barber or Atlanta, or some other central track for a HPDE day next year.
 
6,289
8,021
I would love to do that, I need to get Superbeater out, except for some local excursions, I have no idea what it would be like on the track. I was going to do some track days (homestead, Daytona, sebring) but ended up working them instead.
 
185
149
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
I have to get new rotors and pads and the clutch on this car before I'll try a track day. All of which should happen very soon! My wife loves New Smyrna Beach so maybe we can do a Daytona track event or autocross/time attack. Let's keep in touch!
 
1,070
1,065
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Hi Guys, I have pulled the trigger on a 2pc rotor setup for the 14" Brembo setup. Got an industry friendly deal on DBA 2pc front rotors and stock GT size rear rotors (DBA doesn't offer GT500 rear rotors)... still waiting for delivery though. :confused:

Since I'll be doing this I'm half tempted to set the GT size rear rotors on the shelf and buy some GT500's off RockAuto and the Bear adaptor kit.

My parts are really stacking up. I have the MM bump steer kit I need to do and thankfully I haven't done it yet as I read about Steeda's X11 extended stud ball joints on Billy Johnson's build. So those are also sitting on the shelf. The ACT Twin Disc Clutch is on the garage shelf too along with a braided stainless-steel line and separate reservoir. The list goes on...

I'm thinking hard about Canton's road race oil pan and if I'm that far in I'll replace the motor mounts for solid ones along with the oil lines across the back of the cylinder head. Geeze I could just keep typing of items.

Hoping to post some updates soon! Thanks guys, I appreciate it, and @blacksheep-1 I have watched your Super Beater thread from day one, great build! Maybe all of us in the Southeast can meet up at Barber or Atlanta, or some other central track for a HPDE day next year.
I'd be up for a meet up at Barber. You could twist my arm into Road Atlanta as well.
 
185
149
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
Ok, long overdue for an update. I installed an ACT Twin-Disc Clutch T1S-F05 ... back in March and I love it. First time doing a clutch install and it was a pain learning all of the nuances the hard way. Like the little jack stands don't hold the car up high enough for the trans to slide out... no matter how you finagle it. So back to Harbor Freight (that's a love/relationship) for larger stands. On and on it went. So got the old one out and actually it looks pretty good for 120k miles. Maybe it's not original, dunno. Tore them a apart and weighed them, saved 6.8lbs.

When I ordered this I talked with Rich Barsamian at ACT and he told me the twin disc is lighter than a single disc and it's a smaller diameter. All positives and the build quality is superb. The very first engine start with the new clutch you could hear an audible difference in the starter. The friction discs are solid so the do make "race car sounds" (per my Dad) from about 1500rpm through 2000rpm in 1st through 4th gears and 5th is barely noticeable, 6th no noise. It does have a bit of a racket sound when it's idling at a stop light with the car in neutral and my foot off the clutch. All these sounds I'm fine with. Heck, I'd love the sound of straight cut transmission gears if I could get that and it'd add performance.

Along with the clutch I installed an MGW Race-Spec Shifter, the trans-mount stiffening insert, Archetype Cylinder Head Oil Balancing lines and an MMR Cylinder Head Coolant Balancing line.

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185
149
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
Next up, install the new DBA brake discs and Hawk pads, the Steeda extended ball joints, and Maximum Motorsports Bump Steer Kit.

The upper strut bearing is shot on both sides. I talked with Watson Racing and they said the GT500 style which are a stonger design will work with the MM Caster/Camber Plates. I sure wish the Steeda machined aluminum and thrust bearing unit would play nice, even if it needed some machining.
 
81
90
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Stockton, CA
What did you end up deciding on the rear brake rotors? If you haven't made a decision yet, I'll share my experience. The stock 11.8" rear rotors would burn up the single piston calipers like crazy. I think I went through 8 calipers over 3 seasons before finally upgrading to the 13.75" gt500's. After 2 seasons I haven't had a caliper problem since.
 

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