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GT350 Front Brake Pad Replacement Tips

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I replaced my stock pads with Pagid RS-29's yesterday. These are the prototype pads and the fit was excellent so they should have retail pads available soon. Turns out the front pads also fit the Brembos on a Ferrari Enzo. ;) The rear pads are from a current C7 Stingray.

Turn your wheel so the back of the tire is sticking out so you can have easy access to the rear of the caliper. After you safely raise your car and remove the front wheel you'll want to dislodge the pad pins but do not remove them.

24A8D3F5-F426-41B4-84B0-13A6C99A36D9_zpsxatuniwz.jpg

Then loosen but don't remove both caliper bolts. Remove one and then install the longer caliper bolt. Do the same with the other bolt. I added some anti-seize as a lubricant and I'm also using it when I reinstall the stock caliper bolts. I also included a photo of some of the tools you'll need.

715CDB90-82B6-4C2E-9514-B9CA22E082EF_zpszap9jr25.jpg
D7791E9E-E968-47E0-97DD-2D9C4E028D81_zpsof3krqvq.jpg
886C1D46-6B88-4405-9EC3-588458D78924_zpsha3hawwo.jpg
CE5E08BD-7F92-4EB6-AD8B-0A7335F124D6_zpscxpcbjjx.jpg
226F5AF9-5D50-4CDC-9595-C4849BBFB239_zpseeiwii8b.jpg

From here you'll want to use your favorite piston spreader. A few of us recently purchased the Girodisc spreader and while it's overkill it works well! From the photo above you'll see I removed the rotor and the pads. The spreader does not have enough movement to fully recess the pistons so instead remove the rotor then use the piston spreader BEFORE you remove the pads. Then remove and replace the pads with your new stock or track pads. Then reinstall the rotor and slide the caliper assembly back over the rotor.

Photo of the mondo cool bitchin Camaro Girodisc spreader and the equally cool Full Tilt Boogie tool for the rear pads.

2E4BC457-6793-4301-8A52-5FD4914FA4C0_zpsl0h9oi9i.jpg

The pad tension clip stays in place.

D57F92C3-D095-4530-B0D0-7B4A7A276497_zpsoq2sbxmr.jpg

Next insert your new pads and insert the two pins. From here reinstall the rotor and then slide the caliper and pads over the rotor. Remove the long caliper bolts and reinstall the stock bolts. Torque the bolts and you're all set.

4CCE9B6C-4852-4A5A-90E3-A284FF1773D3_zpsfcozmhw4.jpg
 
Thanks. For those wondering I inserted the long bolts by hand until snug. The manual says 7 turns and I was probably close to that.

This was easier than I expected but still more time than if there was a removable bridge. IMO Ford either needed to give us calipers studs so we are not constantly screwing a steel bolt into an aluminum piece or given us a removable caliper bridge. A removable bridge would have been the easiest without compromising caliper stiffness much if any at all. Oh well at least they are awesome brakes that won't need upgrading. ;D
 
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yes, thanks for the write up.

the brakes are phenomenal. mine have gotten better now that they seem to be fully bedded.

with warm cup2 tires and a second human in the car yesterday (and in 'track' mode), I found 1.25g (per the accelerometer) doing a couple 60-0 stops. when coupled with the magnaride's ability to keep the car super flat under hard braking, it really is amazing what this big beast of a car can do.
 
492
387
DFW, TX
VoodooBOSS said:
I'm also going to explore installing studs with nuts instead of the bolts. The bolts are slightly recessed inside the caliper and that might make it difficult to find a nut to fit properly. But if it can be done it will be a big improvement and shorten the time to swap pads.

Any luck with studs? Do you know the under-head length of the caliper bolts? I was guessing about 110mm from photos.

Some ARP Dodge diesel head/main studs are 14mm. Also, some aftermarket Audi wheel stud conversions, but they may be too short.
 
Do you guys like using that big Girodisc spreader?
I use this spreader that I had for years from snap on.0d71ced92e61a20aa4e34e7876e485ef.jpg

Also does a new tension spring come with the new pads?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
8250RPM said:
Sorry if I missed it, what pads are you waiting on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No worries I'm not sure I posted. GLOC R18 (XP24) front and R12 (XP12) rear. They were supposed to ship last Wednesday but haven't seen them and running out of time before BIR. They are prebed but I was planning to swap front rotors and at least get a little heat into them before the track.
 
1,936
2,036
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Michigan
8250RPM said:
Do you guys like using that big Girodisc spreader?
I use this spreader that I had for years from snap on.0d71ced92e61a20aa4e34e7876e485ef.jpg

Also does a new tension spring come with the new pads?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Girodisc spreader is spendy, but works great.

No spring in the GLOC pads, but they work great. I ran R18/R12 yesterday -- great initial bite, fantastic feel, and no fade 8)
 
492
387
DFW, TX
It was nice to have this thread as a reference just to make sure there wasn't anything odd about the caliper when taking out the pads. They really are 4-times scale versions of the calipers on my Ducati (except the pins don't have grooves in them for the retainer spring to keep them from backing out.)

All I've done today is boring stuff on this car that nobody will ever see:

Steeda lower G-Trac brace
KNS Ti front brake pad shims
Stainless front caliper studs <-- these will definitively make changing pads easier!

But I need to come up with a better redneck pad spreader than I used today...
 
bpracer said:
It was nice to have this thread as a reference just to make sure there wasn't anything odd about the caliper when taking out the pads. They really are 4-times scale versions of the calipers on my Ducati (except the pins don't have grooves in them for the retainer spring to keep them from backing out.)

All I've done today is boring stuff on this car that nobody will ever see:

Steeda lower G-Trac brace
KNS Ti front brake pad shims
Stainless front caliper studs <-- these will definitively make changing pads easier!

But I need to come up with a better redneck pad spreader than I used today...

Front caliper studs are fantastic. Call me redneck but this works perfect and has rubber feet to prevent any cosmetic damage. Just pull one side in at a time. Easy and quick

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-12-in-Clamp/1205683
 
I have a quick question... I'll be doing my brakes in the spring (probably going with OEM discs and track pads) and I'm starting to plan/read about the process... I see you guys are putting anti-seeze instead of loc-tite on the caliper bolts. Is there a risk of loosening if no loc-tite? I will also be installing the caliperfexion studs to make future swaps easier.

Thanks for your input. Now I just need to choose the right pads for my needs... any recommandations between G-LOC, Pagid...
 
I wasn't using anti-seeze on the caliper bolts but I would use blue loctite. The Ford replacement bolts come with thread locker on them. With the Caliperfexion caliper studs you'll also use blue Loctite. I'm finally installing my caliper studs today and member @Tob, who is Caliperfexion, also has a nice little addon for us that he should be posting about soon. This addon will make changing pads even easier. :)

http://caliperfexion.com/
 

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