GT350 Front Brake Pad Replacement Tips

Discussion in 'Brakes, Wheels and Tires' started by VoodooBoss, Feb 29, 2016.

  1. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    I replaced my stock pads with Pagid RS-29's yesterday. These are the prototype pads and the fit was excellent so they should have retail pads available soon. Turns out the front pads also fit the Brembos on a Ferrari Enzo. ;) The rear pads are from a current C7 Stingray.

    Turn your wheel so the back of the tire is sticking out so you can have easy access to the rear of the caliper. After you safely raise your car and remove the front wheel you'll want to dislodge the pad pins but do not remove them.

    [​IMG]

    Then loosen but don't remove both caliper bolts. Remove one and then install the longer caliper bolt. Do the same with the other bolt. I added some anti-seize as a lubricant and I'm also using it when I reinstall the stock caliper bolts. I also included a photo of some of the tools you'll need.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    From here you'll want to use your favorite piston spreader. A few of us recently purchased the Girodisc spreader and while it's overkill it works well! From the photo above you'll see I removed the rotor and the pads. The spreader does not have enough movement to fully recess the pistons so instead remove the rotor then use the piston spreader BEFORE you remove the pads. Then remove and replace the pads with your new stock or track pads. Then reinstall the rotor and slide the caliper assembly back over the rotor.

    Photo of the mondo cool bitchin Camaro Girodisc spreader and the equally cool Full Tilt Boogie tool for the rear pads.

    [​IMG]

    The pad tension clip stays in place.

    [​IMG]

    Next insert your new pads and insert the two pins. From here reinstall the rotor and then slide the caliper and pads over the rotor. Remove the long caliper bolts and reinstall the stock bolts. Torque the bolts and you're all set.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. cloud9

    cloud9 Gary

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    Great writeup Rick! Thanks for taking the time to do this. 8)
     
  3. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Thanks. For those wondering I inserted the long bolts by hand until snug. The manual says 7 turns and I was probably close to that.

    This was easier than I expected but still more time than if there was a removable bridge. IMO Ford either needed to give us calipers studs so we are not constantly screwing a steel bolt into an aluminum piece or given us a removable caliper bridge. A removable bridge would have been the easiest without compromising caliper stiffness much if any at all. Oh well at least they are awesome brakes that won't need upgrading. ;D
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2017
  4. fuhrius

    fuhrius TMO Addict

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    yes, thanks for the write up.

    the brakes are phenomenal. mine have gotten better now that they seem to be fully bedded.

    with warm cup2 tires and a second human in the car yesterday (and in 'track' mode), I found 1.25g (per the accelerometer) doing a couple 60-0 stops. when coupled with the magnaride's ability to keep the car super flat under hard braking, it really is amazing what this big beast of a car can do.
     
  5. bpracer

    bpracer Mark

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    Any luck with studs? Do you know the under-head length of the caliper bolts? I was guessing about 110mm from photos.

    Some ARP Dodge diesel head/main studs are 14mm. Also, some aftermarket Audi wheel stud conversions, but they may be too short.
     
  6. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    I did not take any measurements but I will the next time I have the calipers off. Or maybe @cloud9 can do it when he installs new brake pads in the next couple of weeks. We need the length of the bolt under the cap and the thickness of the caliper where the bolt goes through it.
     
  7. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Does anyone have the part number for the GT350 front caliper bolts?

    @Black Boss
    @cloud9
     
  8. Black Boss

    Black Boss TMO Addict

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  9. 8250RPM

    8250RPM TMO Addict

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    Do you guys like using that big Girodisc spreader?
    I use this spreader that I had for years from snap on. [​IMG]

    Also does a new tension spring come with the new pads?
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. 8250RPM

    8250RPM TMO Addict

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  11. cloud9

    cloud9 Gary

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    If my pads ever get here I will let you know.
     
  12. 8250RPM

    8250RPM TMO Addict

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    Sorry if I missed it, what pads are you waiting on?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  13. cloud9

    cloud9 Gary

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    No worries I'm not sure I posted. GLOC R18 (XP24) front and R12 (XP12) rear. They were supposed to ship last Wednesday but haven't seen them and running out of time before BIR. They are prebed but I was planning to swap front rotors and at least get a little heat into them before the track.
     
  14. Black Boss

    Black Boss TMO Addict

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    Girodisc spreader is spendy, but works great.

    No spring in the GLOC pads, but they work great. I ran R18/R12 yesterday -- great initial bite, fantastic feel, and no fade 8)
     
  15. bpracer

    bpracer Mark

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    It was nice to have this thread as a reference just to make sure there wasn't anything odd about the caliper when taking out the pads. They really are 4-times scale versions of the calipers on my Ducati (except the pins don't have grooves in them for the retainer spring to keep them from backing out.)

    All I've done today is boring stuff on this car that nobody will ever see:

    Steeda lower G-Trac brace
    KNS Ti front brake pad shims
    Stainless front caliper studs <-- these will definitively make changing pads easier!

    But I need to come up with a better redneck pad spreader than I used today...
     
  16. cj350

    cj350 TMO Intermediate

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    Front caliper studs are fantastic. Call me redneck but this works perfect and has rubber feet to prevent any cosmetic damage. Just pull one side in at a time. Easy and quick

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-12-in-Clamp/1205683
     
  17. kart125

    kart125 TMO Intermediate

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    I have a quick question... I'll be doing my brakes in the spring (probably going with OEM discs and track pads) and I'm starting to plan/read about the process... I see you guys are putting anti-seeze instead of loc-tite on the caliper bolts. Is there a risk of loosening if no loc-tite? I will also be installing the caliperfexion studs to make future swaps easier.

    Thanks for your input. Now I just need to choose the right pads for my needs... any recommandations between G-LOC, Pagid...
     
  18. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    I wasn't using anti-seeze on the caliper bolts but I would use blue loctite. The Ford replacement bolts come with thread locker on them. With the Caliperfexion caliper studs you'll also use blue Loctite. I'm finally installing my caliper studs today and member @Tob, who is Caliperfexion, also has a nice little addon for us that he should be posting about soon. This addon will make changing pads even easier. :)

    http://caliperfexion.com/
     
  19. kart125

    kart125 TMO Intermediate

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    So blue loctite it will be! I'll keep a look for the new "need" Tob as created. Tob I guess is Epiphany from mustang6g?
     
  20. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    Yes that's him, he's a long time member here and even longer on SVT.
     

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