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GT350/R AP Brakes

Just finished installing the AP Rear brakes on the R. Fronts were very straightforward, Rears require a bit more work.

First remove the OE rear calipers and rotors, together with the e-brake brake shoes (I also removed both e-brake cables as I didn’t want to just zip tie each of them to one side)
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Next the rear hub has to be removed. Undo the axle nut and then remove the 4 hub bolts. The forward 2 of these bolts on each side are only accessible with a 18mm short universal socket (3/8” drive) and even then you need to compress the halfshafts inboard to get access.
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Then remove the e-brake support and dust shield:
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At this point you remove the dust shield and have to trim the e-brake support, then using it as a spacer to maintain hub location:
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Note that the 350/R halfshafts are longer than base GT to account for the e-brake mount/spacer. Also the calipers will not be centred without the spacer.

Add the caliper mount and caliper:
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Place the spacer between the hub and the knuckle and re-install the hub.

I then used an M6 screw and washer to attach the brake hose support to the sway bar mount as the OE M8 bolt is too large for the provided support:
B23D06A5-A4FB-4A4C-88C6-D48A955D6F6C.jpeg

Finally having installed rotor and pads I fabricated a wheel speed cable support from angle, to replace the OE support that is attached to the e-brake cable:
1E24A326-43AE-4DF7-8770-17B6654D0593.jpeg

Bled the brakes now it’s time to go bed them in and test!

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Nice DIY post. I think the AP brake kit will pay for themselves in tires, wheels and time with the radial mounts.
 
Interesting - I've installed a surprising number of brake kits and this is the most installer machining I've seen. Do you really have to mill the e-brake support down from big to little? It's odd that they didn't just machine a spacer and include it along with the mounting bracket.

Of course, having left the spacer out of the kit, I'm guessing they didn't include wheel chocks either, right? ;-)
 
The Park brake bracket fouls the AP caliper support. It's possible, but unlikely, that you could rotate it 180* as I think it would then foul the rotor. I didn't try, as the hub has to come off anyway, and utilizing the spacers makes for a very clean install, and loses some weight.

AP will be offering a rear package that retains the e-brake, which uses larger diameter rotors. I didn't go that route as it's not yet available, and 18" wheel fitment is tbd.
 
Can’t wait to hear your feedback on the AP brakes on your R. I have the same set up on my R.
If I missed it, what pads are you running? I have Ferodo

What other mods have you done to this car?

Have fun be safe. [emoji1]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Car is Stock apart from Safety gear and front camber plates. Installed the Front Rotors with Mintex pads first -- very capable brakes, at least as good as stock, which is amazing given how much smaller/lighter they are.

Mintex pads were down to 1mm after 4.2 hours of track time. Then replaced them with Pagid RSL1's, installed rear rotors/ calipers and pads with the same compound pad at rear. After 2.1 hours of track time, front and rear pad wear is minimal, and initial bite is fantastic! The OE brakes are fantastic with Race Pads (GLOC R18), but big and heavy. The AP brakes with the Pagid's front and rear are spectacular.
 
Yes, I didn't weigh the components, but both the rotors and calipers are lighter, and the smaller rotor diameter also reduces rotational inertia.

In addition you loose the weight associated with e-brake components (brake shoes, actuator, cable supports, mount and cables).
 
Any tips for removing the e-brake cables and shoes?

The tricky part is releasing the cables from the caliper cable support -- mine have been on and off a few times to change rotors so the spring clips are partly broken, making it a whole load easier.

Loosening the exhaust clamp and letting the exhaust sag significantly improves access to the e-brake adjuster and removal of the rear cable assembly.

I then used stainless header wrap ties to tension and secure the front cable to the adjuster bracket.
 

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