S550 GT350R Race Car Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

[steveespo]

Nick, will that throw a code?

Gotta put those resistors from Grimmspeed on and then no code. Wonder if Nick still has the exhaust system wiring in there though.

 

[8250RPM]

Have you seen or heard about possible oil pan-PS rack interference issues when lowered by 1/2”?

I have not, but was told today by a motor mount manufacturer that they’d heard scattered complaints.

The clearance issue is the oil pan to K-member. If I remember correctly it’s 3/4”. I’ll have to check again to be 100%. But it’s more than enough away from the rack and pinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[8250RPM]

Removed the exhaust valve actuators, and wired up the valves to be fully open:

View attachment 3849

What’s your reason on keeping the stock mufflers and not a complete ARH system including mufflers?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Black Boss]

What’s your reason on keeping the stock mufflers and not a complete ARH system including mufflers?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Several reasons:
1) I haven't seen any evidence that aftermarket cold ends flow any better than OE, with open valves -- maybe they do?
2) I wanted to retain the heat shields
3) I picked up a take-off

 

[8250RPM]

Several reasons:
1) I haven't seen any evidence that aftermarket cold ends flow any better than OE, with open valves -- maybe they do?
2) I wanted to retain the heat shields
3) I picked up a take-off

Makes sense.
I dynoed a few mufflers and you are correct. They do not add any gains in power only weight reduction.
Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Kevin Guzniczak]

Nick
I hope that wrap doesn’t cause clearance issues. If / when the motor torques over its very close to the rails and causes false knock on some gt350’s
No disrespect but maybe ceramic coating would be a better option.

I run ARH headers on my 2016 track pack without any problems.
Below are pictures of a friends GT350 also with ARH.
He auto X and his rub all the time.
This is his second set of ARH headers.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No issues with ARH and frame clearance. I have mine fully wrapped and installed no issues. No banging under heavy load. It was a chore installing but it’s doable. Undo both motor mounts from the frame and tip the motor up. I loosened the trans mount as well because it didn’t want to tilt enough otherwise. Remove the motor mount brackets and starter as well. Curved wrenches are your friend getting bolts back in. I took all the studs out and used the header bolts that came with them. The studs are too long and the way some of the runs are it looked impossible to get a nut back on. I put the upper bolts in the head a few turns along with the gasket and then slipped the header in under the head of the bolt. The flange is all notched out so it will slide in. It makes it easier than trying to reach in and find the tapped hole.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[8250RPM]

No issues with ARH and frame clearance. I have mine fully wrapped and installed no issues. No banging under heavy load. It was a chore installing but it’s doable. Undo both motor mounts from the frame and tip the motor up. I loosened the trans mount as well because it didn’t want to tilt enough otherwise. Remove the motor mount brackets and starter as well. Curved wrenches are your friend getting bolts back in. I took all the studs out and used the header bolts that came with them. The studs are too long and the way some of the runs are it looked impossible to get a nut back on. I put the upper bolts in the head a few turns along with the gasket and then slipped the header in under the head of the bolt. The flange is all notched out so it will slide in. It makes it easier than trying to reach in and find the tapped hole.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I installed mine much of the same way.
Took about 4.5 hours to install the headers when I did mine a few years ago.
The pain was I had to do it twice because the first set I prototyped was tighter fitting.
I also didn’t use the oem studs but it is doable. I used arp stainless bolts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Black Boss]

Today, I installed the Master Power cutoff and Fire system pull in the drivers side Cowl:



Needed lots of mods to the plastic cowl panel, but most will get covered by the hood, once installed.

 

[8250RPM]

Nick
Are you going to run lowering motor mounts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Black Boss]

Not sure on mounts yet — will likely start with standard height as I’ going to run a larger capacity oil pan and want to check clearance.

Meanwhile, got the de-mist fans and associated ducting in today:



Ducting would have been a whole load easier, pre IP install

 

[BigTaco]

Not sure on mounts yet — will likely start with standard height as I’ going to run a larger capacity oil pan and want to check clearance.

Meanwhile, got the de-mist fans and associated ducting in today:

View attachment 3959

Ducting would have been a whole load easier, pre IP install

You going with the same oil pan as the one on the race car? The “S” version...

 

[spartan]

Nick, How do plan to change the mode setting to track mode? I'm not able to do it with the 5 way switch. I installed the mode, suspension and steering wheel switch but it does not activate anything when I press the buttons. I have been running on the default street mode on the track.

 

[Black Boss]

I'm using the mode switch button......

 

[spartan]

Can you tell me if you need the cruise control switch plugged in for the mode switch to work?

 

[Black Boss]

You need the exhaust valves plugged in, or the defeat resistors. Will try to test mine tomorrow.

 

[Black Boss]

Finished up most of the fire system install today:



Nozzles in Engine firewall:



Driver side lower IP:



And Fuel Pump side of upper Fuel tank:

 

[Black Boss]

Made up a template for Brake Cooling ducts today. Not sure yet whether to fab them from Steel or Aluminum:

 

[VoodooBoss]

Any reason not to use aluminum? It is a race car after all.

 

[Black Boss]

Any reason not to use aluminum? It is a race car after all.

Just looking for best material availability -- need 4" pipe and 12" x 24" plate. Steel is stiffer, so I'd have to go with 4mm Aluminum to be sure the backing plate doesn't buckle under steering loads as the mounting points are well behind the duct inlet...

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Looking great.

For the windshield blowers--does one go to each side of the windshield? I'm thinking to order a couple myself...