Huge brake upgrade for S197 chassis

[Adam Ginsberg]

Over the last ~week, after having the parts in my garage for a YEAR (smh), I upgraded my 2012 Boss 302:

• Rear: new 14” GT500 rotors, GT500 caliper brackets, GT500 diff cover, 3” long studs, new axle seals (blew the passenger side unit @ LSIR last year), G-Loc R10 pads, fresh gear oil.
• Front: 15” Giro Disc 2-piece rotors, S550 6p calipers, G-Loc R12 pads, new hubs w/3” studs, SS lines and a full liter of fresh ATE brake fluid flushed thru the system.

On Thursday, I took it for a short drive to bed the new pads and rotors. The pedal did appear to go a bit further to the floor, but TBH, it’s been about a month+ since I drove the car last. I’m still able to downshift the same way as before (rolling onto the throttle for rev-matched downshifts), which IMO, is a good sign.

Today the car goes back in the air for a nut, bolt and fluid leak check, another quick brake fluid flush, then a bath and detail. It will get a healthy drive tomorrow to the Petersen for their All American car show.

I’ll know more about brake pedal feel in the coming days/weeks.

 

[BackInBlack]

Did you pull pull the axles out or use adapters on the rear?

Caliper brackets. Nvm!

 

[Adam Ginsberg]

Had to pull the axles for two reasons - R&R the axle seals AND to R&R the rear caliper brackets. I didn't want to use adapters, I am using stock Ford GT500 brackets.

 

[Mad Hatter]

Over the last ~week, after having the parts in my garage for a YEAR (smh), I upgraded my 2012 Boss 302:

• Rear: new 14” GT500 rotors, GT500 caliper brackets, GT500 diff cover, 3” long studs, new axle seals (blew the passenger side unit @ LSIR last year), G-Loc R10 pads, fresh gear oil.
• Front: 15” Giro Disc 2-piece rotors, S550 6p calipers, G-Loc R12 pads, new hubs w/3” studs, SS lines and a full liter of fresh ATE brake fluid flushed thru the system.

On Thursday, I took it for a short drive to bed the new pads and rotors. The pedal did appear to go a bit further to the floor, but TBH, it’s been about a month+ since I drove the car last. I’m still able to downshift the same way as before (rolling onto the throttle for rev-matched downshifts), which IMO, is a good sign.

Today the car goes back in the air for a nut, bolt and fluid leak check, another quick brake fluid flush, then a bath and detail. It will get a healthy drive tomorrow to the Petersen for their All American car show.

I’ll know more about brake pedal feel in the coming days/weeks.

If for some reason you don't like the feel, I would suggest just upping to a more aggressive pad. Found that the longer travel worked great for pads with a lot of bite.

 

[FastEd]

Did this upgrade on my 12 GT500 about a month ago, with some low mileage takeoff OEM 13-14 500 rotors and a set of S550 front calipers from a wrecked car. Bought the rear brackets new from Ford since they aren’t a bad price with my discount.

Ran a few track days with it since, I’d agree that the pedal does go a bit further when braking on track but for my footwork it’s actually a bit easier for me to heel/toe the car now … I was struggling a bit with that last year. OEM pads all around for now since the front calipers were complete with hardware and good condition pads. Might try something with more bite in the future. Overall I’m pleased with the upgrade, gives a bit more confidence for a late brake at the end of the Mosport back straight with this big heavy turd. LOL

 

[Adam Ginsberg]

If for some reason you don't like the feel, I would suggest just upping to a more aggressive pad. Found that the longer travel worked great for pads with a lot of bite.

That's the plan. I have a new set of front rings in boxes (current rings are used). At some point, I'll R&R the rings and go with R16s.

 

[Adam Ginsberg]

This round of changes on my car allowed the use of a number of new tools - a Lisle stud installation tool and a Motive Power Bleeder. Both are worth EVERY penny, particularly the power bleeder. I never had one during my racing career and boy do I kick myself.

 

[Adam Ginsberg]

Last Friday I took the car out for a long day of driving. Up ACH to Newcomb's Ranch for the GVBC meetup, to Huntington Beach for a parts run, Santa Ana for work, then home via PCH. Right about ~300mi.

If there is a difference in pedal throw from the original 4p Brembos, I cannot feel it. Brakes are THERE whenever asked, can still easily perform rev-matched downshifts exactly as before (ankle roll method), no funny business. When I get on them hard, they do their job with aplomb. A GREAT upgrade for these cars at a modest cost. The fact so many parts are OEM, IMO, is icing on the cake.

No track time yet - that won't happen until the end of August (LSIR) or September (WSIR). I'd rather test the brakes @ LSIR for obvious reasons.

I also found time last week to install an MGW X-spec shifter to replace the Ford Racing/Barton unit. I shouldn't have waited so long to make the change. Significant difference and improvement in shift quality, especially getting into reverse. The FR/B reverse lockout piece is made of plastic and had worn.

 

[Coz]

I just finished this upgrade on my car. For those that have the Vorshlag Brake Duct Backing Plates for the 14" brakes on their car, they will work with this upgrade with minor modification.

I had to cutoff about 1/4"-3/8" of an inch off the "ears" that are right by the caliper to spindle mounts. I just used a cutoff saw and then a Dremel tool to deburr it.

Before:


During:


After:

 

[EF1]

I just finished this upgrade on my car. For those that have the Vorshlag Brake Duct Backing Plates for the 14" brakes on their car, they will work with this upgrade with minor modification.

I had to cutoff about 1/4"-3/8" of an inch off the "ears" that are right by the caliper to spindle mounts. I just used a cutoff saw and then a Dremel tool to deburr it.

Before:
View attachment 105355

During:
View attachment 105356View attachment 105357

After:
View attachment 105359View attachment 105360View attachment 105361

Must be some variation in components. Mine fit fine without trimming.

 

[Coz]

Maybe after the S550 caliper upgrades became popular they slightly modified the design to make it more universal? @Fair

 

[Coz]

Another few observations:

1. The combination of older 18x10 Apex EC-7 wheels with the ET43 offset, and the washer (approx 1/16th) to center the caliper makes the clearance REAL tight. And this is with 3mm wheel spacers. I will have to move some of my wheel weights that are on the "ledge" of the barrel right up against the spikes. Right now the are about 1/8" away from the spokes and the head caliper bolt will graze them. These are the thin flat 1/4oz stick on weights.

2. The newer EC-7 wheels with ET40 offset have a lot more clearance since the edge of the ledge as it slopes to the widest part of the barrel is pretty much in line with the curved edge of the caliper body. The caliper bolt housing is still pretty dam close (about 1/16" to 3/32") to the ledge but there is sufficient clearance to wheel weights as long as they are no more than 1/8" away from the spokes. Again, this is with 3mm wheel spacers.

3. Using the Girodisc 34mm rotor rings from Optimum Performance's (OPMustang.com) with the correct offset will eliminate the need for the spacer washers on the caliper to spindle mounts. This should provide additional clearance for either version of wheels.

Pics of clearance with ET40 EC-7 18x10 with 3mm wheel spacer and washer between caliper and spindle mount.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Does anyone know if the base Boss302 wheels fit these brakes? spacers needed?

 

[Coz]

Does anyone know if the base Boss302 wheels fit these brakes? spacers needed?

Post in thread 'Huge brake upgrade for S197 chassis' https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/huge-brake-upgrade-for-s197-chassis.11867/post-218897

 

[steveespo]

Does anyone know if the base Boss302 wheels fit these brakes? spacers needed?

yes they do

 

[EF1]

I assume the stock brake pistons are aluminum. Has anyone tried stainless or titanium pistons in the S550 6 piston Brembos to reduce heat transfer to the fluid?

 

[captdistraction]

shims are an easier solution. You probably could find or have machined nicer pistons, but the oem ones hold up well if you use a titanium shim.

 

[EF1]

shims are an easier solution. You probably could find or have machined nicer pistons, but the oem ones hold up well if you use a titanium shim.

I have used shims in the past. I am using the 34mm Girodisc's and it doesn't leave much room for the shims. I have to leave them out when installing new pads and slide them in after the pads wear a little. I have to rebuild a set of calipers and thought about using stainless or titanium pistons. I was wondering if anyone tried them and how much they helped with temperatures.

 

[Mad Hatter]

I assume the stock brake pistons are aluminum. Has anyone tried stainless or titanium pistons in the S550 6 piston Brembos to reduce heat transfer to the fluid?

Do you have fluid boiling problems?? Or do you just want to keep more heat on the pads?

 

[EF1]

Do you have fluid boiling problems?? Or do you just want to keep more heat on the pads?

Just keep more heat in the pads. I don’t currently have problems with boiling fluid.