The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Huge brake upgrade for S197 chassis

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I know this a older thread but if i follow the part list on forum and get the Goodridge p/n: 12367 will it be a direct bolt on? Or do i still have to modify some of the parts? Any input would be greatly appreciated i'm deciding between this the 13 Gt 500 6 piston or just going with the Wilwood superlite kit.
 
If it’s about looks, AP Racing has a nice kit for the rear via Stillen. Wilwood also has a kit, but neither is really suited for track duty.

If you want track ready PFC has a bracket that re-uses the factory caliper with a nice bracket and 12.9” floating rear rotors. It looks nice too and adds a lot more beef around the rear caliper that cuts down on deflection. I am going this route for the rear through Filip at Cortex.

PFC kit since it’s hard to find: https://s3.amazonaws.com/ccommunications/Build+Sheets/20150408_LAT_Mustang+Build+Sheet+F&B.pdf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
So would it be safe to order the 50th anniversary set which are the gloss black ones and not the matte black ones? Or should i get the original matte black ones?
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,015
1,959
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
So would it be safe to order the 50th anniversary set which are the gloss black ones and not the matte black ones? Or should i get the original matte black ones?

Yes 50th calipers are the same


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok so i was looking at different rotors and came across these not sure if they would fit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sph-127-61106cr/overview/ also as for pads would any of the s550 pads for those calipers work and what kind of shims would i need same for s550 brembo performance or is there a specific one to get the right fitment. Thanks to all this has helped me a lot still putting the pieces together,

Just a suggestion.
You should maybe reach out to KNS brakes.
http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/home
They are a TMO vendor.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,551
5,283
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Drilled rotors are not the best ideal if you will be tracking your car. Heat cracks will form at the drilled holes and consume the rotor.
A standard blank rotor or a slotted rotor is preferred. KNS lists your rotors as drilled or not drilled. Saves $8.00 for non drilled or $100.00 for their blank rotor. Lots of folks are going with the blank since they are finding the only real difference is the price.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Seriously! It's amazing the difference a lighter wheel (and tire) setup makes!

It’s ten fold. Removing 10 pounds of unsprung weight will make your car act like it’s 100 pounds lighter.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
939
712
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
It’s ten fold. Removing 10 pounds of unsprung weight will make your car act like it’s 100 pounds lighter.
Maybe the improvement in suspension function feels that good.

But the reduction in rotational inertia isn't in nearly a 1 to 10 comparison with car weight (it's closer to 1 lb rotating corresponding to 2 lbs non-rotating, I've done a few rotational inertia calcs).


Norm
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Maybe the improvement in suspension function feels that good.

But the reduction in rotational inertia isn't in nearly a 1 to 10 comparison with car weight (it's closer to 1 lb rotating corresponding to 2 lbs non-rotating, I've done a few rotational inertia calcs).


Norm
It's the wheels reaction to change of direction that makes the car act as though it was lighter. Heavy wheels make the car feel heavy. 10-1 is a long standing rule of thumb. I didn't make that up. Rotational inertia is a different thing....
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
939
712
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
I know that "rule of thumb" has been around for a long time. But as with many rules of thumb, the applicability of that "rule" never seems to show up. In this case, it's about rotating weight - more correctly rotational inertia - and I'm about 99% sure that it came out of the hotrodding side of the automotive hobby because 1:10 can't be justified through the physics and math involved. A 1 to 10 ratio might well apply to flywheel weight loss as an overall average up through the gears, due to the fact that they are being accelerated rotationally several times faster than the wheels.

I found at least a couple places that back my own rough 1:2 rule of thumb, which I've been able to verify via comparing acceleration simulations.


Norm
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top