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Just did a track day, now I have brake questions (kinda long)

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I did not know these existed until now. I just bought the blowfish racing kit, but have not installed it yet. If I return the blowfish kit and buy the fabman plates, where do I source the hose from?

I think you can buy the hose separately from blowfish.

and any reason why not to go for the 4" over the 3"?

Ideally, you'd want to have 4" inlets to match. Might have more rubbing issues with the larger diameter. Steering limiters would probably prevent wheel contact. I haven't heard anyone complain about using 4"
 
You can get 4" hoses on Amazon or through Pegasus Racing. Go with the high temp orange hoses. They are a PITA to work with, but can withstand some abuse. Also might want to get some extra hose in case you need to do repairs for small sections.

Fitment is very tight and you will want to zip tie the hoses to the sway bar push it as far away from the wheel well as you can. Take your time with routing the hose or you will create a lot more work in the long run.
 
I emailed Blowfish but I have not received a reply yet and I'm impatient.

Does anyone know if the hose supplied in the kit is a single ply or 2 ply hose?

Is 2 ply overkill? I'm thinking it may be a bit more durable for a car that sees 85-90% street duty.

If I do decide to go with 2 ply, what length should I order?
 
I emailed Blowfish but I have not received a reply yet and I'm impatient.

Does anyone know if the hose supplied in the kit is a single ply or 2 ply hose?

Is 2 ply overkill? I'm thinking it may be a bit more durable for a car that sees 85-90% street duty.

If I do decide to go with 2 ply, what length should I order?
I have 2 ply. It's a good thing too. I have many wear spots through 1 ply.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
I ran a 2 1/2 inch kit from FRPP for about 3 years through the HPDE ranks. They worked well for my speed and experience level. I had a chance to buy the front end parts from an FR500S which comes with brake intakes, the spoiler and splitter and the intakes are 4" ducts. As others mentioned brake cooling is a must. My experience with the 4" is that it works much better, now that I am running in TT4, although 3" would likely suffice for most of us mortals.

With my 4" (it has been on about a year now) I do run into rubbing problems, but I wrap my hose in duct tape where the tire rubs at the front (Home Depot has colors to match) from time to time and it keeps it OK. I do DD my car. I purchased the hose from Pegasus.

I made my own backing plates, but one of my friends purchased his from Fabman and they are 10/10. Mine look like I did "welding by the numbers" comparatively. Nothing like an old man with a mig welder melting pieces of metal together!
 

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Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
939
709
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
Modified OE 08GT dust shield.JPGDust shield mod.jpg
Sometimes just having the function and not the aesthetic is more than sufficient :)
This ↑↑↑ . Like any almost-roadkill is going to notice?

I did a similar DIY backing plate mod when I was still running the little 12.4" 2-piston front brakes. Not beauty contest winners by any stretch of the imagination, but they did work well enough. I did add a little extra protection for the tierod end.

Norm
 
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Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
5,581
4,108
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
As Daffy and Donald would say, " Ducks,ducks, ducks ( ducts )!" Glad you are following the advice as one can boil even SRF at certain tracks - done it at Road America and Mid Ohio years ago in a 98 Viper. Great advice that one should view their personal braking concerns and not base it on what others are experiencing. Often it appears the individual problem between different drivers is there is a disparity in lap times. Glad you are getting this done, but the wonderful upside is you will increase the life of your braking system. The cost will be recovered in longer pad life, longer periods before a caliper may have to be rebuilt, etc. Hopefully this thread will continue to come up, as ducts should be mandatory on HPDE, Time Trials, Racing, etc. as many folks have noted - cheap upgrade with huge rewards.
 
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I'm no master of braking but i thought the pedal to the floor after long straights was due to hot rotors coning unevenly and pressing the pads back into the calipers while traveling at high speeds.

The fix is a floating rotor that does not cone upon heating and expanding.

The work around is a tap of the brakes half way down the straight to get the pads back near the rotor again.. second press of the pedal you have brakes again.
 

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