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S550 Macho Man NV Salvage Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

Frank.JD.Perez

FJD Performance
283
438
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Pleasanton/Hayward, CA
my eyes are already sensitive. please no eyeball abuse
 

Frank.JD.Perez

FJD Performance
283
438
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Pleasanton/Hayward, CA
Keep those sunglasses on and the abuse will be minimal.............LOL........................
theres a reason i still wear sunglasses in overcast weather... good thing my visor on my helmet is tinted
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
653
959
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
Patrick holler if you have any trouble getting all the canbus working when you have it swapped to manual, I had to do some digging to figure mine out but eventually got it.
I might take you up on that. Still trying to play with the 10-speed vs manual in my head. I think it'd be decently simple, just about as easy as the manual, as long as I switch in all the logic boxes completely over. I'm alright with the MT82-D4, but can't help wonder if the gearing of the auto will make it even faster, instead of the huge unfriendly gaps that make smaller turny courses difficult. That's pretty much been Ale's guinea pig, but I'm stuck between that and putting some miles in a DCT setup that a bunch of us have been talking about. I dunno, got 2 months to figure it out, big end goal is getting one last shot at ACS and breaking into the 1:43's.
 
I might take you up on that. Still trying to play with the 10-speed vs manual in my head. I think it'd be decently simple, just about as easy as the manual, as long as I switch in all the logic boxes completely over. I'm alright with the MT82-D4, but can't help wonder if the gearing of the auto will make it even faster, instead of the huge unfriendly gaps that make smaller turny courses difficult. That's pretty much been Ale's guinea pig, but I'm stuck between that and putting some miles in a DCT setup that a bunch of us have been talking about. I dunno, got 2 months to figure it out, big end goal is getting one last shot at ACS and breaking into the 1:43's.

Yeah def some big advantages to the a10 or dct if you can keep them cool. If you do go that route I’ll buy your clutch.
 
Ah, well that's great news, and thanks for having better eyes than I. If that nGauge is there, then I should be able to at least flash it back to stock for the next device or tuner incoming, and that reminds me that I might as well try to return the Stripper back to stock too. Not sure what we'll be doing with all these transmissions, or if I'm going to give the auto a go, trying to gauge what it'll entail, but thankfully we've got just about everything we're going to need with two 2018 GT's and trying to Frankenstein them together. I was pretty happy with the 470rwhp pep from the Stripper, and it's about as far as you can get a Gen3 Coyote without doing cams and intake. Stock Gen3 is around 410-420rwhp and that math at the current NASA rules/specs works out perfectly if I run it stock and get it down to a s197ish 3400 minimum race weight, and losing ACS has me thinking I've got to go lighter for the smaller turny courses.
Careful with this. While the nGauge does save a "stock" file, it saves whatever tune was on the car when the nGauge was paired with it. It could be a shotty Whipple tune. I'd swap in the pcm from the stripper.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
653
959
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
Once a stripper, always a stripper.

Accomplishment: Interior fully stripped.

Started the day off with a goal of further investigating things, and clearing up some space by removing as much of the interior as could be done. Chiseled out the shattered windscreen but without gloves, could only go so far until we had to go into town and get some thicker ones. Still laughing about this guy there who was just stinking the place as if he was deaf. Speaking of deaf, did you know that those deaf from birth don't know that they're audible?

20221105_141313.jpg

Careful eye will see that there are two layers of windshield sealant. So if I'm now removing this, then it was also broken prior, not sure if it was done by the previous owner or whether this was part of some rental fleet, which feed the high mileage, a 2018 with 59k miles on it, having sat for maybe 3-6 months in the auto salvage yard because of all that insurance and investigation processes? I say that as, vandalism was listed by allstate as one of the reasons for totaling the car.

20221105_141318.jpg

So as we started moving around removing things and the upper core support for the front looks wonky, and then looking straight down, we see that the plate where the main bumper support would bolt to is shaky, neither of them straight. That and there's some red overspray on the bottom of the headlight, so whoever had it in the accident had it as red, before that wrap. It's still pretty close though, no sort of wrinkle or anything further back, so a low speed front collision that had some give to it suggest perhaps a stack of tires? Looking at the top of the core support, you see like a random plastic plate that's cut, and then a metal plate to hold it together, like something *I* would have done... just worse.

20221105_141328.jpg20221105_141339.jpg

Don't really have a picture of it, but there were some carpets thrown over the dash which a quick eye would have written off as like anti-glare protection, but then inspecting the passenger side dash, there's black tape, and the Mustang badge missing, which ... is strange. It's not a cool keepsake like build number whatever, and calling that a keepsake is a bit of a stretch. Having that airbag in there to sell, also a stretch, no dice, but semi to be expected, as that was blown, as was the wheel and the driver kneebag. Strange A and C pillars didn't fire, but I'm sure they have their reasons.

20221105_141349.jpg

Looking at the rear, we see that the whole fuel pump assembly is gone, the ring and jimmy hat are there though, which with the previous owner doing 1000rwhp means it would have had to come out anyhow, it's nowhere close to adequate fuel delivery. A few wires look to have been split and used for guessing power and variable signals, and maybe one was yanked out of the fuel pump driver control module, will check that up next time I'm back with it, and since the stripper doesn't need her lovely lady pumps time to go under the knife. Debating whether to switch out the whole tank, not like she's going anywhere, anyhow.

20221105_141357.jpg20221105_141408.jpg

Back of the trunk looked fine, nothing really remarkable other than a few maybe inch diameter holes drilled in the passenger side of the rear tire well. We were trying to figure what it'd be, perhaps diff cooling, didn't seem like an airbag type of car, perhaps something like a snow meth kit. Dun really matter now though.

20221105_163125.jpg

Yanked out the bluetooth shifter, if you didn't know, that's all it really is, and a few cables to tell the trans what to do. It's almost like the manual, almost. I haven't had an automatic in so long, forgot what they were like. No transmission though, clearly stated in the ad, not really thinking I'm going to do the auto, been a real big coin-toss for me. I don't think it's up to task, or at least on my diet coke budget.

20221105_174838.jpg

and so as the sun started to go down for the day, we were pretty much done. I've still got to scrape all that crap off, 1000F Wagner heat gun and a scraper, then just blast it for 10-20 seconds until it starts to bubble and just gently push at the right angle. Smells kinda funny at times, so get some air, and well, not much else left in the car, that's about all it got.

20221105_185838.jpg

So, I guess not having all that stuff is kinda cool and not, thought it'd be nice to have a few more things to flip, but it's not like I'm really wanting to do any more work with my back not fully there, so having it gone and out and not having to toss it up on e-bay is almost nice. Do have some airbags to flip, moved the seats, and it's literally the frame, a few panels, an engine just dangling in there with no oil pump, water pump, crank snout, fuel injectors, high pressure fuel pump, missing like 6 coils, looked down the hpfp hole and engine looked clean and dry, but did see springs, perhaps a cam or two is in there. Can see the back of the crank from the back, so at least we've got that. With the front support busted, might just as well take that off, remove the headlights, and like roll the motor forward and out. Good news is that if I can cherry pick the trans and motor out of the stripper, we can literally just walk it right back in, which is kinda nice, I guess.

To-do as I know of it today, semi stack ranked, semi laundry listed
  • cage it up
    • probably a watson s550 race cage. the r&d is obviously there, probably save a bunch of time getting one of these and just welding it up.
    • the front bar leads me to believe the stock dash can be modified to fit onto it.
  • fix the roof
    • (https://www.onlinefordpartscatalog.com/oem-parts/ford-roof-panel-fr3z6350202c)
  • fuel system
  • make some sort of fiberglass skin/shell for the door since the cage does that safety thing
  • engine
  • transmission
  • driveshaft
  • rear diff
  • half axle/shafts
  • dash transplant
  • brake transplant
    • might get new front calipers, since I'm worth it
    • gotta get those sweet bleeder valves
  • probably new hubs and studs from all the rolling must have put some silly side tension on them
  • computer swap so macho thinks he's the stripper, oh yeah.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
619
730
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
fix the roof
Depending on rules, you could send that out for chemical milling (acid-dip) before welding in. It's weight at the highest point on the car, so lightening it could make a change to the CG.
Could the trunk holes be for cables from a trunk-mounted battery?

I still say keep the wrap. The color is Macho Man-approved.
1667769268208.png

Looks like he also suggests using GY Supercar 3R tires.
1667769383823.png
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
653
959
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
Careful with this. While the nGauge does save a "stock" file, it saves whatever tune was on the car when the nGauge was paired with it. It could be a shotty Whipple tune. I'd swap in the pcm from the stripper.
That is most certainly true, and really good points, especially as I've read some horror stories on the interwebs. I'll play with the nGauge in a little bit and see if I can figure out a way to unmarry it for the consumption of others since I hear these are decently hard to come by. Good news is that I've got spares and whatnot, so my best course of action is to transplant the heart of the Stripper in Macho Man so her heart will go on, and play with my remaining MT82-D4 with the broken 3-4 shift fork, and take a look at the condition of the junker block sometime this week.

1667809275121.png


Depending on rules, you could send that out for chemical milling (acid-dip) before welding in. It's weight at the highest point on the car, so lightening it could make a change to the CG.
Could the trunk holes be for cables from a trunk-mounted battery?

I still say keep the wrap. The color is Macho Man-approved.
View attachment 80781

Looks like he also suggests using GY Supercar 3R tires.
View attachment 80782

Great points, I went looking through the NASA CCR (pdf 52, printed 40) and the Super Touring Unl/1-4, both of which don't make any mention about the roof. If I'm being secured by the cage, then in a way, the things around me are just varying levels of additional weight and rigidity. Not sure what the weight of that is, but if I could have some like alumalite sheet in there that's even lighter, then score. I'll get some clarification in person from our compliance and safety guys to see about what I can get away with before I'm having to take a roof modifier penalty, which at like 0.2, I don't know if it's worth it. Sure, it's 8:1, which makes that only 2.5% of my total point budget, or at least not enough benefit for the effort. I'd guess Lexan would be fine too without the penalty, supposing I put in some like dzus fasteners, vertical bars, and clips to hold it in should the worst happen. Trying to keep this super budget friendly though, not sure if something like an Optic Armor saving like 15# justifies the price being double. It probably does, but they're also backed up 6-8 weeks according to their store :(

1667806055341.png

Short update, made some good progress today, removed the hood, fenders, and doors before pain set in. Cut some chunks out of the cage to get the dash out, since I told them that I wasn't going to take it out, and welp, I lied. Sorry, it was a great cage. Didn't have any big buckets or anything, and know the HOA would have field day if they saw water coming out of my car and down the driveway, so stopped at the Evap core and its hoses. I'll finish that stuff shortly and start pulling the motor before too long, since Macho Man has that goofy cracked core, might as well just take this one from the Stripper and roll with it for a bit. Plus, with the radiator and core support out, I can much easier pull the motor from the front.

1667804227697.png1667804168623.png
Too bad Slim Jim doesn't support the lowest rung of amateur automobile racing, that neon yellow, red, and black would have been a match made in heaven, brother. BEEF! SPICE! OH YEAHHHHH.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
653
959
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
For what it's worth I just bought a windshield from optic armor and got it in less than 3 weeks. Maybe your experience won't be the same but just saying.
Well that should work for my time line then... what thickness did you go with? I've "heard" that the 3/16 is too thin and flexes, something the thicker ones don't.
 
122
129
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
San Jose
Well that should work for my time line then... what thickness did you go with? I've "heard" that the 3/16 is too thin and flexes, something the thicker ones don't.
I went with 1/4. My rough calc said it would be about 3 lb heavier than 3/16 but I don't want a floppy windshield. My old car had a 3/16 with no supports and it was very bouncy over 120 LOL. May have been fine if I added braces, but who knows.
 
5,657
6,742
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Well that should work for my time line then... what thickness did you go with? I've "heard" that the 3/16 is too thin and flexes, something the thicker ones don't.
1/4" front and 3/16" back.
Any thinner and you have to make braces, but then you negate any weight savings and if I remember correctly the difference was only about 1 pound anyway so why bother?
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
653
959
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
I went with 1/4. My rough calc said it would be about 3 lb heavier than 3/16 but I don't want a floppy windshield. My old car had a 3/16 with no supports and it was very bouncy over 120 LOL. May have been fine if I added braces, but who knows.
1/4" front and 3/16" back.
Any thinner and you have to make braces, but then you negate any weight savings and if I remember correctly the difference was only about 1 pound anyway so why bother?

Thank you both.

Watching Jake make ALE HIS f***ing biznitch has me trying to go as light as possible where it makes sense. Money is absolutely an object for my race team, and with Auto Club Speedway going away, our SoCal region would then consist of two smaller/curvier courses in Buttonwillow and Chuckwalla, and then the power track of Willow Springs. I was declaring 3605 for my 470rwhp, which is about as far as one can reliably push the Gen 3 without doing cams and Cobra Jet. With the current mod and tire weights, and the reworking of the average/max hp calculation, 3605 worked out to a max hp of 474, which I thought was a decent tradeoff, because the current bracketing give an extra 0.1 mod for >3600. I'm thinking I can go another 100 or 200 lighter, and if I have to pull power to do so, I'm alright with it, although the stock Gen 3 dynos around 415rwhp. I was usually going out with full tanks just for the ballast, and ACS on stock fuel system you need that tank nearly full when you're going fast and hard enough, banking and g's hitting fuel starve at like 3/4 a tank.

Speaking of tank, what do people feel about the BMR tubular K-Member? It's half the price of the Steeda one that's been used for all their HPDE podiums.


1667849756182.png1667849722317.png

Differences I can see are that the Steeda is a mostly one piece kit with some cross k-member brace, whereas the BMR bolts those rear legs to it, not saying it couldn't be tacked up. Both seem to have the EPAS, and no need to change out to a manual rack. An easy 30# off the nose seems like a no brainer.
 
5,657
6,742
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Thank you both.

Watching Jake make ALE HIS f***ing biznitch has me trying to go as light as possible where it makes sense. Money is absolutely an object for my race team, and with Auto Club Speedway going away, our SoCal region would then consist of two smaller/curvier courses in Buttonwillow and Chuckwalla, and then the power track of Willow Springs. I was declaring 3605 for my 470rwhp, which is about as far as one can reliably push the Gen 3 without doing cams and Cobra Jet. With the current mod and tire weights, and the reworking of the average/max hp calculation, 3605 worked out to a max hp of 474, which I thought was a decent tradeoff, because the current bracketing give an extra 0.1 mod for >3600. I'm thinking I can go another 100 or 200 lighter, and if I have to pull power to do so, I'm alright with it, although the stock Gen 3 dynos around 415rwhp. I was usually going out with full tanks just for the ballast, and ACS on stock fuel system you need that tank nearly full when you're going fast and hard enough, banking and g's hitting fuel starve at like 3/4 a tank.

Speaking of tank, what do people feel about the BMR tubular K-Member? It's half the price of the Steeda one that's been used for all their HPDE podiums.


View attachment 80804View attachment 80803

Differences I can see are that the Steeda is a mostly one piece kit with some cross k-member brace, whereas the BMR bolts those rear legs to it, not saying it couldn't be tacked up. Both seem to have the EPAS, and no need to change out to a manual rack. An easy 30# off the nose seems like a no brainer.
Personally I'd go with whichever one is stiffer, not necessarily lighter.
Doesn't matter much if you saved 10 pounds but your alignment changes all over the place as the suspension loads and unloads.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,635
2,587
Arizona, USA
I would avoid either of those K-Member options (and most of them over the years we have not seen hold up well to the rigors of road racing, anyways). CorteX has an offering that is well-tested. Or options to put an SLA on the front of the car like mine, while using the factory K.
 
117
211
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Southern California
I would avoid either of those K-Member options (and most of them over the years we have not seen hold up well to the rigors of road racing, anyways). CorteX has an offering that is well-tested. Or options to put an SLA on the front of the car like mine, while using the factory K.
I spoke with Cortex this time last year but was told they didn't have a solution for running their SLA with the factory S550 K-member, nor did they have anything planned at the time. I'd certainly be interested in something like that though.
 

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