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Maximum Motorsports pedal stop + McLeod RXT?

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Hi all,

Running McLeod RXT twin-disc on my weekend canyon / track day 2012 Boss 302. Went with RXT to solve the typical disengagement issues of stock clutch on high RPM shifts. Has been working well for about 6 track days.

Only thing I don't like is the clutch bite point is high up on the pedal. Would prefer a hard stop closer to where the clutch takes up.

Has anyone tried using the maximum motorsports pedal stop with McLeod RXT/RST or other twin-disc clutches? Their documentation says it's designed for specifically for Tilton racing clutch. I'd expect it could be used and properly adjusted for the McLeod but figured I'd check and see if anyone has tried this.

Give it a try and let us know how it works.


Because racecar.
Arizona, USA
First I've heard of that but the concept seems simple. It would be good to understand when full disengagement occurs in the pedal stroke, however.
Also a minor concern is to make sure that the neutral safety switch is still triggered, so you can fire the engine.
I like that product! Might need to spend 30 bucks to see how it works with my RST. Thank you for posting this, OP!
Nice to see #576 is still going strong! I put an RST in my '13 Laguna and thought the same thing about the pedal throw. I removed the pedal helper spring and made the feel much better. One of these days we'll have to meet up at the track.
Good deal guys, thanks for the input. I ordered the parts, but probably won’t get to install until Jan. I believe the clutch safety switch is adjustable - hopefully enough to deal with the change. Will report back on what happens.
Have you looked into an adjustable clutch master cylinder? I looked into one made by RJM Performance (pricy, fyi), but eventually ditched my RXT since it was not drivable in stop & go street traffic.
Now that is a really interesting idea, too! I ordered the MM part and hope to get it soon to try it out but if I'm not happy I may add that RAM adjuster.
Finally got around to installing the clutch stop. My timing and consistency on the clutch is much improved, both street and track. Also find it less fatiguing to press the clutch pedal down against the stop during stop/go traffic, versus having to hold the pedal mid-stroke. Highly recommend this for any of the twin-disc clutches with high take-up points.


Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
Exp. Type
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
The pedal stop is in. I left the brake linkage connected, the line from the fluid reservoir connected and left the pedals in the car.
Remove the four nuts on the booster studs. Remove the two bolts holding the pedal assembly to the firewall. Remove the clutch fluid reservoir for and leave it connected. I have a separate reservoir for the clutch. Put electrical tape over the nylon nut and push it into a deep well 7/16” socket. Put the socket into the pedal frame and align with the hole. You may need to open the hole slightly. Put the bolt through the pedal stop And thread it onto the nut, tighten. Reassemble the pedal assembly. No need to break open the fluid line.
Works great.

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