My motor blew up......now what?

[JeffV8]

I no longer remember what was used in the IMSA engines, but since the ones in your car are no doubt tired, I would talk to your engine guy.
I'm an Ed Iskandarian guy, but I don't know if they build anything for mod motors.

I have brand new gen2 heads

 

[docs302]

don't forget to replace the valve springs

Done!

 

[docs302]

I have brand new gen2 heads

I have brand new gen2 heads

@race4food's recommendation was to find a set of used Gen 2 F150 heads as a start. If I went that route I was going to end up spending more so I kept the Boss heads. If I ever have to do this again that's where I will start too.

 

[docs302]

I feel ya.

I did take your advice and order the crank scraper. Still waiting on that. The owner's wife answered the phone when I called and then yells out to husband who's in the garage working. Pretty funny. Talk about a "mom and pop" business lol.

 

[docs302]

It’s pretty straight forward. You only use two of the four knock sensors and they install on the two pads in the valley center.

Ok I see what you mean.

 

[blacksheep-1]

The reason I mentioned the valve springs is if you are using the old heads. Now is the time to replace the springs since it's all apart.
These engines are pretty remarkable as long as you maintain them, even the timing chains are not much of an issue, but I have seen a few broken valve springs and that can be catastrophic.

 

[Fabman]

I did take your advice and order the crank scraper. Still waiting on that. The owner's wife answered the phone when I called and then yells out to husband who's in the garage working. Pretty funny. Talk about a "mom and pop" business lol.

Don’t forget their windage tray, they work together.

 

[Fabman]

What would you recommend?

Gen 2 heads use the same spring as the boss 302 which are adequate for cams with stock or near stock lift. The L&M “intake only” cams that I and many others here on TMO (and beyond) run have stock lift and increased duration. I used these stock springs in competition at 8000+ rpm all year without issue. I also change them between seasons as a safety precaution. Valve springs are cheaper than motors.

 

[docs302]

The reason I mentioned the valve springs is if you are using the old heads. Now is the time to replace the springs since it's all apart.
These engines are pretty remarkable as long as you maintain them, even the timing chains are not much of an issue, but I have seen a few broken valve springs and that can be catastrophic.

I bought a set of the 302R springs but then decided I wanted a bit more rate so I went with Livernois. They are between the 302R and PAC springs. PAC springs were really pricey. Even went with new followers and GT350 rollers

 

[docs302]

Don’t forget their windage tray, they work together.

Well.......I got the teflon inserts but not the tray. I figured the GT500 tray has to have some value.

 

[Fabman]

I bought a set of the 302R springs but then decided I wanted a bit more rate so I went with Livernois. They are between the 302R and PAC springs. PAC springs were really pricey. Even went with new followers and GT350 rollers

The strategy for going with minimal spring pressure and smaller cam profiles is that it doesn’t put excess stress on the valve train and VCT. The higher the stresses the lower the reliability. The ideal spring pressure is just enough to control the valve at the desired RPM . No more, no less. I do not know what the psi differences are of the various springs are but the decision was to stay with the boss 302 springs that worked so well last year. Let’s hope they work just as well in 2022. Stay tuned.

 

[bauern]

Well.......I got the teflon inserts but not the tray. I figured the GT500 tray has to have some value.

From the images I've seen of the included part number, the GT500 windage tray is the early coyote part.

 

[Fabman]

From the images I've seen of the included part number, the GT500 windage tray is the early coyote part.

Yeah I would really suggest getting the proper windage tray that goes with the scraper.

 

[JeffV8]

From the images I've seen of the included part number, the GT500 windage tray is the early coyote part.

I have a new stock tray and the GT500 one that came with my 500 oil pan. I will se if there is a difference.

 

[Fabman]

The other side has oil catchers that funnel the oil down through the screen so it can’t splash back up on the crank.

 

[Fabman]

Here is the flip side:


Oil control is the key to making these motors live.

 

[JeffV8]

Yeah I would really suggest getting the proper windage tray that goes with the scraper.

My GT500 and my stock tray are the same.

 

[docs302]

I've been checking out some scraper pics that JeffV8 sent me. I also was just going to use the GT500 pan but after seeing all the modifications that Kevin makes I am now wondering if I should have sucked it up and invested in that as well. It took a month to get my scraper but it may be worth it in the long run.

 

[Fabman]

I've been checking out some scraper pics that JeffV8 sent me. I also was just going to use the GT500 pan but after seeing all the modifications that Kevin makes I am now wondering if I should have sucked it up and invested in that as well. It took a month to get my scraper but it may be worth it in the long run.

Oil is the life blood of an engine...anything you can do to improve oil control is worth whatever it costs.
Whats a blown up motor cost?
Pans, pumps, pans etc. are cheap insurance in my book.

 

[Coz]

I apologize for my ignorance up front but I'm not getting the concept.

I always thought that getting the oil off the crank would help reduce horsepower loss. But how does it help reduce the chance of a blown engine?

Can the amount of oil that would otherwise remain up in the crank exceed 8 fluid ounces? Even a pint? With a larger capacity & baffled oil pan, how does that make a difference?