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OEM Shift Knob Stuck, Cannot remove. (and yes I've searched)

So to begin, yes, I've researched this issue on many forums / you tube etc.

I'm trying to remove my OEM Boss 302 shift knob off of my 2013 and I know these can be a pain to remove due to tons of threadlock etc.

I've tried the tricks that I've come across. First I tried heating up the shift knob base and knob with a heat gun to no avail. I've then tried the belt strap wrench and no matter how hard I tighten the belt, it just slips. Tried two different sizes of belts / wrenches. I tried using an old belt with a pipe wrench, no go there. I've tried towels and channel locks / pipe wrenches, no luck, towels keep slipping. Brute strength from myself and a strong friend... nothing. Even went into the kitchen to get those rubberized jar openers, no help. I've tried all the above with heating and without.

So, what else can I try? It hasn't even budged and I've been at it on and off for two days... I can't find any other tips or tricks online.

I'm nearly at the point of trying to have the dealer do it the next time I'm in for service, but know they will charge a lot for however long it takes them.

At this point, I'm even willing to destroy my OEM ball / knob just to get it off (I can always buy a new OEM later).
So far, I've not damaged or scratched it.

I'm at a total loss here, I've never known something simple like this to end up being so tough to do...
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,284
3,314
Exp. Type
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Illinois
WorldFamousZ said:
So to begin, yes, I've researched this issue on many forums / you tube etc.

I'm trying to remove my OEM Boss 302 shift knob off of my 2013 and I know these can be a pain to remove due to tons of threadlock etc.

I've tried the tricks that I've come across. First I tried heating up the shift knob base and knob with a heat gun to no avail. I've then tried the belt strap wrench and no matter how hard I tighten the belt, it just slips. Tried two different sizes of belts / wrenches. I tried using an old belt with a pipe wrench, no go there. I've tried towels and channel locks / pipe wrenches, no luck, towels keep slipping. Brute strength from myself and a strong friend... nothing. Even went into the kitchen to get those rubberized jar openers, no help. I've tried all the above with heating and without.

So, what else can I try? It hasn't even budged and I've been at it on and off for two days... I can't find any other tips or tricks online.

I'm nearly at the point of trying to have the dealer do it the next time I'm in for service, but know they will charge a lot for however long it takes them.

At this point, I'm even willing to destroy my OEM ball / knob just to get it off (I can always buy a new OEM later).
So far, I've not damaged or scratched it.

I'm at a total loss here, I've never known something simple like this to end up being so tough to do...

Sounds like you need a larger pipe wrench and be willing to sacrifice the original ball. Wrench right on the ball. It will eventually break or come off.

Good luck.
 
Are you using a real Heat gun? A hair dryer will not work...had the same problem until I pulled out the Milwaukee 2 stage heat gun, hot enough that it melted the ball from the metal insert!! Then I used a slip joint plier to break it loose, was able to reinstall the insert to the oem ball! Use gloves the ball will burn you..good luck!
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,551
2,389
Arizona, USA
I have a cloth belt-style strap wrench that worked for me, but they also sell strap wrenches with thick rubber belts that will work even better. They're pretty cheap at Home Depot. Once you get it on there, you can even use a cheater bar for more leverage.

And just to be certain...you're going counter-clockwise, right? :)
 
I am using a two stage heat gun, not a blow dryer. I actually need to have the car serviced this afternoon at Ford, so I'll see what they can do. Even if I have to pay for it it's worth it (if I ruin the OEM knob myself, I'll have to buy a new oem one anyway so might as well try to have it salvaged)...

I even tried last night using a combination of that non-slip drawer liner, strap wrench and brute force. I was able to grip it the best out of every method that I tried, but still nothing.

I'm VERY worried about potentially ruining something with the gears but putting this much force onto it.
 
ArizonaGT said:
I have a cloth belt-style strap wrench that worked for me, but they also sell strap wrenches with thick rubber belts that will work even better. They're pretty cheap at Home Depot. Once you get it on there, you can even use a cheater bar for more leverage.

And just to be certain...you're going counter-clockwise, right? :)

I'm actually using rubber belted strap wrenches and they don't grip the ball well at all, no matter how tight it is it just slips. There's not enough gripping force to make a difference. It was very frustrating.

And yes, I'm going the correct direction.
 

Senderofan

Having more fun than should be allowed..in my Boss
WorldFamousZ said:
I'm actually using rubber belted strap wrenches and they don't grip the ball well at all, no matter how tight it is it just slips. There's not enough gripping force to make a difference. It was very frustrating.

And yes, I'm going the correct direction.

I know your frustration well....it wasn't that long ago I was in the same boat. It really did boil down to heat, strap wrench and persistence. Sounds trite....but I think it'll work for you in the long run.

Keep at it!

Wayne

P.S.

I broke the strap on a smaller strap wrench....kept cinching it tighter and really putting force to it. Found I had to use a larger strap wrench....gave me more leverage.
 
I bought a couple Strap Wrenches the larger of the two took if off no problem,no heat.The rubber on the strap about 1 inch wide and the hand gave me about 12 inching of leverage.Pulled about as hard as I could but it came loose first try.
 
So the dealership was kind enough to remove my OEM knob today when I had the car in for an oil change

I installed the new one and drove it home, however I noticed now that the reverse lockout doesn't work. I can put the car into reverse without pushing the shifter down and left-up. so I actually got it into reverse a few times when trying to get it into 1st.

Did they damage something? I guess the OEM knob was on there extremely tight, even their techs had to scratch the knob in order to remove it. (which I was expecting and was ok with).

Is there something I can do to re-adjust the shifter somehow? I'm glad I had the dealer remove the knob, now if any issues arise, they can fix it and it's documented that they did the work.

AM I missing something? I'm afraid something is broken...
 
Justin said:
Yeah they probably turned the entire shaft and now the lock tab isn't facing the correct location

correct, that they did. I took off the console and the boot underneath and saw the shaft was twisted out of alignment. I was able to put it back in the correct alignment and it shifts just fine now.

The oem ball is a goner though, it was absolutely amazing how tight it was on there. It's insane how much thread lock they used...

new knob is on now and all is well it seems.

thanks for all your input guys! Sounds like most of you were lucky enough to have less threadlock on your shifters...
 
384
0
Maui
Here is another way to remove the knob without damaging it. Always wanted to try it but my shift ball came off along with the shaft easy enough with a strap wrench and a hair dryer...Found this in 5.0 Magazine.

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get a urethane strap wrench from Ace Hardware or similar. I had the same problem with the wrench slipping on the ball so wrapped it with duct tape to get a gripper surface and that did the trick! Still takes some brute force and hope it works for you too.
 

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