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S197 SLA Suspension System from Cortex

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Must be a hard lift loading your tool box!!!
We just roll it up the tail gate and ratchet strap it down as seen in the video. (you can see the butcher block top in the foreground)
@blacksheep-1 wanted to know how I got out of the car in the trailer with all those cabinets etc. in the way so this was made for him some time ago.
Its a little like a fat Saint Bernard trying to squeeze through the cat door.



10 points for sportin' my original TMO T Shirt :cool:

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They fall out father quickly along with the scratch all . This is a Starrett so top quality stuff and still.... :(
My Starrett tools were primarily used for layout so they survived the weld & fabrication shop but 1 sq. head still missing the scribe. That old craftsman combo checked out as good as the Starrett stuff on the master square so it was good to use in fab & weld. The sq. head on the craftsman is covering up some plasma marks on the straight edge that I’m too embarrassed to show :mad:

Back to regular programming - sorry to hijack
:rolleyes:

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@Fabman thanks so much for the info...beyond the not getting my shocks issue, this overall was exactly what I was looking for and also the direction I was thinking about the slots and spacers on the fronts.

Off topic - is your frame notched in the back in order to get the car so low?
On a side note, I know that JRI has been very slow delivering Cortex specific custom valved shocks. For awhile they were giving steep discounts on Penske's because of this.
That news is a little bit dated so I don't know where they are at with this now or what shocks you ordered.
 
While we are talking about these make sure you properly torque and regularly check the lower control arm bolts.
I totally screwed up and let this go all season and wallered out the holes like an idiot so I had to do an adhock repair during the off season.
Now I only have one hole. :(

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MCS. Ordered Sept 29th......
That's new....I don't think I've ever seen MCS coming from Cortex. Must be tired of waiting on JRI.
 
So they are on the way ??
Only the shadow knows. Supposedly they were en route from MCS to Cortext last week and all they had to do was put the springs with them and send out....but after several emails 2 weeks ago, Cortex has gone silent....

I know from other customers and installs, also from my own experience, that MCS is rarely *months* behind.....
 
That's new....I don't think I've ever seen MCS coming from Cortex. Must be tired of waiting on JRI.
They are a new dealer. I wanted to not mix brands with the rears, and i have been extremely happy and successful with the MCS.

Watch out on the stroke lengths on the MCS. JS

Well, whatever they are sending is spec-ed by Cortex, so....

***Ninja Edit*** I am promised I will have them this week - email came in while I was typing.

DaveW
 
They are a new dealer. I wanted to not mix brands with the rears, and i have been extremely happy and successful with the MCS.



Well, whatever they are sending is spec-ed by Cortex, so....

***Ninja Edit*** I am promised I will have them this week - email came in while I was typing.

DaveW
what was your chosen spring package?
 
what was your chosen spring package?
Going to go with 1000 to start. I am stiffer than you in the rear, but I am expecting to have to change that to get balance back after gaining front grip.

Typical of spring collections, I have stacks and stacks of 8x2.50 springs but nothing in 2.25 so I am going to stock up in the ranges you describe (800-1200)

Thanks for all the discussion. I can't wait to get out on the new stuff.

DaveW
 
Going to go with 1000 to start. I am stiffer than you in the rear, but I am expecting to have to change that to get balance back after gaining front grip.

Typical of spring collections, I have stacks and stacks of 8x2.50 springs but nothing in 2.25 so I am going to stock up in the ranges you describe (800-1200)

Thanks for all the discussion. I can't wait to get out on the new stuff.

DaveW
I found that shifting the balance a little to the rear was faster for me. Less front/more rear spring. Let me know what works for you.
 
Going to go with 1000 to start. I am stiffer than you in the rear, but I am expecting to have to change that to get balance back after gaining front grip.

Typical of spring collections, I have stacks and stacks of 8x2.50 springs but nothing in 2.25 so I am going to stock up in the ranges you describe (800-1200)

Thanks for all the discussion. I can't wait to get out on the new stuff.

DaveW
Might wanna wait till you get the shocks, the MCS versions might take 2.50 springs.
 
Going to go with 1000 to start. I am stiffer than you in the rear, but I am expecting to have to change that to get balance back after gaining front grip.

Typical of spring collections, I have stacks and stacks of 8x2.50 springs but nothing in 2.25 so I am going to stock up in the ranges you describe (800-1200)

Thanks for all the discussion. I can't wait to get out on the new stuff.

DaveW

Just another point of confirmation here; I originally went with 850# fronts and 250# rear which worked very well for me although allowing a good amount of roll. With a larger splitter up front and a desire to curb some of that roll and aero-induced brake-dive, I ended up going to 1000# front and 325 rear and the car is very happy with that. You can definitely tell where tracks aren't so smooth, though.

Also, remember with the Radial-X spindles you have the camber shims, so when you are doing your initial setup on the car, put the static negative camber in a spot where you can adjust easily with the shims for track direction.
 
We just roll it up the tail gate and ratchet strap it down as seen in the video. (you can see the butcher block top in the foreground)
@blacksheep-1 wanted to know how I got out of the car in the trailer with all those cabinets etc. in the way so this was made for him some time ago.
Its a little like a fat Saint Bernard trying to squeeze through the cat door.



10 points for sportin' my original TMO T Shirt :cool:

View attachment 100948

You need a carbon door on quick disconnect pins :)
 
That driver's door is as light as can be already - he bends the top of it every time he gets in/out of the car while in the trailer...JS


Told you that would happen if we gutted that part of the door. :rolleyes:


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436800455_780841127344673_4116312755964797358_n.jpg




In my stock cars I always used to mount a "Butt Bar" above the top door bar for this very reason.
Saved the aluminum door.

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