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S197 s197hpde3v Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

35
44
Exp. Type
Drag Strip
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Chester Virginia
I don't know if it qualifies as part of the build, but I scored a budget enclosed trailer today. 2019 Cynergy 8.5x24 v-nose, already has a winch installed. I need to figure out flooring and cabinets/storage. And I was playing with custom trailer tags.

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35
44
Exp. Type
Drag Strip
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Chester Virginia
Nice. I've wanted to upgrade to an enclosed for several years now but still haven't done it. Have you tried putting the car in it yet to get an idea of weight distribution and space?
Not yet, I literally dropped it off at lunch and drove the mustang back to the shop. My wife's Mazdaspeed 3 drove in and wasn't close to dragging. I might try the mustang tonight if it doesn't rain. I expect it will need race ramps to lift up the door and get a better approach.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,976
4,294
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
Nice find with your new trailer I pulled a 24' for years. Weight distribution should be fairly balanced with the car to the rear, within a foot of the ramp and tools/cabinets to the front. You do need to drop the front of the trailer. The trailer needs to be level for the suspension to be happy.
I have had Aluminum over plywood and vinyl coin over plywood floors. I recommend the vinyl. Putting aluminum sheets in which are thick enough to avoid wrinkling is just too expensive. The vinyl is fairly easy to install and patch, if the damage is small, 1" or smaller. RTV the same color fills and blends well. Pay a few buck more and buy the vinyl which is wider than the floor, usually 8"6" wide. Seams will always come apart with use.
 
35
44
Exp. Type
Drag Strip
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Chester Virginia
Test fitted the car yesterday. The race ramps made for easy loading (of course one got damaged in shipping, but they knock off $100 for me to keep them). I installed a lower hitch to level the trailer too. Positioned the car about a foot inside the back door and strapped it down for a test drive. It doesn't sway and handles abrupt lane changes well, much better than our travel trailer which is not surprising due to the difference in CG. Did discover fuel jugs will have to be mounted ahead of the car because the tires will hit them if mounted along the side walls. I'm thinking of installing a light duty work bench/countertop in the v-nose. Mount a 2 wide x 2 tall fuel jug rack along side wall between the car and side door. A toolbox on the other wall across from the side door. One of the oil and aerosol can racks with the fold down tray mounted on the side door. I also want to install an rv style 12v converter that will power all the 12v lighting and keep the battery charged and mount a 30 amp plug on the outside for shore power. I've ordered black coin rubber flooring and glue. And I'm going to try using led strips for inside and pit side lights. Around medium on the weirdness scale is the electric tongue jack previous owner installed that will lower itself down on it's own. Has happened about 4 or 5 times now, fortunately it was parked at the time. I'm probably going to add a shut-off switch going to the jack power source until the mystery is solved.

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TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,976
4,294
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
My power tongue Jack has a clutch you have to engage/disengage when switching between manual and electric operation. If I leave the clutch disengaged, the tongue will drop on its own. If you can download the manufacturers manual for your Jack, there may be something similar.
I’m liking your mod list for the trailer so far.
 

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