S197 Should've bought a base GT Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

[blacksheep-1]

Sounds like your buddy did you a solid, and he is def a stand up person.
A couple of things, you are in the back yard of Phoenix Performance, their S197s were so legendary that thay had to be literally legislated out of competition.
They would be a huge resource for you. You might also be a bit disappointed in that they usually recomend a Gt500 upper link and Ford Performance lower trailing arms. No relocation brackets, just an 18mm bar and coil overs in the rear. Brain dead simple.

 

[noldevin]

Sounds like your buddy did you a solid, and he is def a stand up person.
A couple of things, you are in the back yard of Phoenix Performance, their S197s were so legendary that thay had to be literally legislated out of competition.
They would be a huge resource for you. You might also be a bit disappointed in that they usually recomend a Gt500 upper link and Ford Performance lower trailing arms. No relocation brackets, just an 18mm bar and coil overs in the rear. Brain dead simple.

I'd be lying if I said I haven't seen all the times you post those cars picking up the inside front and thought "yes, that"
Unfortunately those Penskes they like are not in the budget, but simplifying the rear setup is definitely a thought. I already have that 18mm bar.

 

[blacksheep-1]

I'd be lying if I said I haven't seen all the times you post those cars picking up the inside front and thought "yes, that"
Unfortunately those Penskes they like are not in the budget, but simplifying the rear setup is definitely a thought. I already have that 18mm bar.

You can do that with the Ford Performance parts, and JRI ( I think that's them) make decent coilovers for about 50% of the Penskes

 

[Dave_W]

Cortex sells the JRi dampers in some of their kits, but they also have a new S197 Penske setup based on their work with Shelby American on Shelby-branded S550 Penske coilovers. Much less expensive than the IMSA/PWC Penskes, though not using an inverted strut.

 

[xr7]

QA1 has come out with and inverted coilover strut for the S197's and the Fox/SN95's. Price is pretty reasonable. They are right in my backyard, might have to check them out.

 

[noldevin]

Appreciate all the input, but seeing as I JUST purchased a set of coilovers, I'm going to have to make them work for a while. New coilovers are just not in the budget. All the other adjustments, I do plan on making.

 

[noldevin]

The photographer uploaded his pictures for my event finally, so I figured I'd just share a couple of them here. Car is looking great on track

 

[Boss4Me]

The photographer uploaded his pictures for my event finally, so I figured I'd just share a couple of them here. Car is looking great on track

View attachment 91262

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Agreed it looks great on track. Many of the items on your list of mods are on my wish list.

 

[noldevin]

Gathering my winter maintenance list, I've decided that 80k miles and 9 years of mild track abuse warrants some engine TLC.
So far I have planned:
Upgraded VCT Solenoids
Ford M-6004-A504 Cam Drive Kit
Boss Valve Springs (there was evidence of possible float around 7700rpm during dyno tuning)
Boundary "Black" Oil pump gears and anti-cavitation housing (yes, I went this long on stock OPGs)
Boundary crank sprocket

As well as a rear gear swap from 3.73 to 3.31 and rear bearing refresh. I'm thinking the 3.73s with 26" tires is a bit too much, plus there are several places on tracks I frequent where I could use an extra 5-10mph in 4th.
And, she's going to need tires. I'm still holding out for Conti ECFs in 305/30/19, but my hopes aren't too high and might have to stick to RS4's.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Others may disagree but I would definitely stay with the 3.73s. Digging out of some slower corners you may find a bigger issue than a few tracks you need that 5th gear shift.

 

[noldevin]

Others may disagree but I would definitely stay with the 3.73s. Digging out of some slower corners you may find a bigger issue than a few tracks you need that 5th gear shift.

I'm still considering splitting the difference with 3.55s. The rear needs a refresh either way, lots of noises coming from those 3.73s.
But with the short tires it feels more like 3.90s and I think I would be braver with the throttle with a little less gear as well.

 

[EF1]

The 3:73s were really meant for 19” wheels. If you are running 18” I would look at 3:55s. Like Bill said the 3:31s are a bit tall. I have a gear ratio in Excel that will help figure out what is best for you. Let me know if you want the file.

 

[noldevin]

The 3:73s were really meant for 19” wheels. If you are running 18” I would look at 3:55s. Like Bill said the 3:31s are a bit tall. I have a gear ratio in Excel that will help figure out what is best for you. Let me know if you want the file.

I do have 19s, but the 305s are only 26" diameter (stock was closer to 27")
I actually took a bunch of time to make a fancy spreadsheet that accounts for tire size, with drop-down options and multiple transmissions, but thank you for offering yours up
The car is quite torquey and honestly I've always been very much on the too-careful side powering out of corners. I think a little less gear would help me overall especially if I can feel more confident hitting the gas.
But perhaps you've all convinced me to only go down to 3.55 instead of 3.31.

 

[EF1]

It sounds like we made similar spreadsheets to calculate gear ratios. I had 3:55s in mine with I think 26.5 tall tires and wished I had 3:73s. The Tremec swap necessitated a gear swap and I ended with 4:10s. Remember going to a taller ratio doesn’t always mean higher speeds. The car will not spin up as fast so even though the gear can go faster you may not have enough time to get there before the next corner.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Over the years I have failed to use spreadsheets or heavy duty mathematical analysis on many items ( partly because I am too stupid to figure it all out ) and gone with what the winning drivers are doing. Sure my 315/30/18 Hoosiers on my Boss 302Ss were only 25.6 inches , but they kept me in a great torque band and helped me win a Regional Championship. I came out of time corners with alot of uuumph and seemed to get up to speed at times faster than what appeared to be more powerful cars. I hope AZBoss and Fabman jump in here, as they are two solid and consistent winners and their thoughts are the real World answers I would want to work with.

 

[EF1]

I do have 19s, but the 305s are only 26" diameter (stock was closer to 27")
I actually took a bunch of time to make a fancy spreadsheet that accounts for tire size, with drop-down options and multiple transmissions, but thank you for offering yours up
The car is quite torquey and honestly I've always been very much on the too-careful side powering out of corners. I think a little less gear would help me overall especially if I can feel more confident hitting the gas.
But perhaps you've all convinced me to only go down to 3.55 instead of 3.31.

Looking at the numbers it does appear the 3.55 will give you about 6 mph in 4th gear over the 3.73 assuming you are still running the MT82. The increase with 3.31 will be closer to 15 mph in 4th.

 

[dragoon]

Over the years I have failed to use spreadsheets or heavy duty mathematical analysis on many items ( partly because I am too stupid to figure it all out )

Brain dead simple.

You and me both Bill. I think black sheep-1 said it best !!

 

[noldevin]

So It's time for the spring/almost summer update.
The engine maintenance didn't work out time or budget wise for the spring, so we will save that for a winter project perhaps.
Instead she started the season with the usual oil change and brake fluid flush. In addition, I switched to a fresh set of G-Loc 10s in the rear to go back to the stagger, and removed the rear relocation brackets. I think I can safely say that the rear axle hop is finally GONE . Personally I want to credit it to the relocation bracket removal.

Finally, the first big change of the year - the Steeda wing.
I opted to paint it myself to save a few bucks. I'm actually impressed how nice it came out, despite some mistakes on my part.

Quick summary of the paint process:
Paint thinner to remove packing tape residue
Soapy water and then prep spray to clean
600 grit scuff, then another clean
Duplicolor prep spray
Duplicolor adhesion promotor
Duplicolor gray scratch filler primer
Scratchwizard Ford UJ color coat - 3 cans would have been ideal. The spray pattern is narrow and they are not as full as other cans.
Spray Max USC 2k High Gloss Clear - 2 cans / 4 coats. 2k is important for a great long lasting clear. Use a respirator! This stuff is terrible for you.
Wet sand to take out orange peel and a few oopses - 1000 then 2000 grit, then compound/polish.

Don't be cheap, always get extra paint. 3 cans of color would have been ideal here. I started with one, and stupidly only ordered one more to finish. Not wanting to wait for yet another can, I decided it was good enough and cleared it.

For a spray can, it came out very nice. Slight orange peel, and only a couple runs which were totally my fault. I was able to wet sand and polish it out for a very smooth finish. Unfortunately, due to location and wanting to avoid yet another trip, I transported it while still tacky and the bottom clung to my trunk carpet. Luckily it was the bottom, so I was able to sand the defects down to "good enough" and they won't be seen much. If I had ordered the right amount of paint off the bat, and had the luxury of painting this at home where I could take my time, I think it would have come out nearly perfect at less than half the cost of a decent body shop.

Overall, it looks quite good on the car, and provided me a nice confidence boost at my first track day of the season, Pocono Megacourse with HOD. I was entering Nascar 1 at almost 10mph faster than my last time here.


I was still dialing in my new video setup at this event, so I don't have great in-car video or any data. But here's a clip of me chasing a Z/28 until traffic got in the way and I couldn't catch him again.

 

[Boss4Me]

So It's time for the spring/almost summer update.
The engine maintenance didn't work out time or budget wise for the spring, so we will save that for a winter project perhaps.
Instead she started the season with the usual oil change and brake fluid flush. In addition, I switched to a fresh set of G-Loc 10s in the rear to go back to the stagger, and removed the rear relocation brackets. I think I can safely say that the rear axle hop is finally GONE . Personally I want to credit it to the relocation bracket removal.

Finally, the first big change of the year - the Steeda wing.
I opted to paint it myself to save a few bucks. I'm actually impressed how nice it came out, despite some mistakes on my part.

Quick summary of the paint process:
Paint thinner to remove packing tape residue
Soapy water and then prep spray to clean
600 grit scuff, then another clean
Duplicolor prep spray
Duplicolor adhesion promotor
Duplicolor gray scratch filler primer
Scratchwizard Ford UJ color coat - 3 cans would have been ideal. The spray pattern is narrow and they are not as full as other cans.
Spray Max USC 2k High Gloss Clear - 2 cans / 4 coats. 2k is important for a great long lasting clear. Use a respirator! This stuff is terrible for you.
Wet sand to take out orange peel and a few oopses - 1000 then 2000 grit, then compound/polish.

Don't be cheap, always get extra paint. 3 cans of color would have been ideal here. I started with one, and stupidly only ordered one more to finish. Not wanting to wait for yet another can, I decided it was good enough and cleared it.
View attachment 96005 View attachment 96006 View attachment 96007
For a spray can, it came out very nice. Slight orange peel, and only a couple runs which were totally my fault. I was able to wet sand and polish it out for a very smooth finish. Unfortunately, due to location and wanting to avoid yet another trip, I transported it while still tacky and the bottom clung to my trunk carpet. Luckily it was the bottom, so I was able to sand the defects down to "good enough" and they won't be seen much. If I had ordered the right amount of paint off the bat, and had the luxury of painting this at home where I could take my time, I think it would have come out nearly perfect at less than half the cost of a decent body shop.

Overall, it looks quite good on the car, and provided me a nice confidence boost at my first track day of the season, Pocono Megacourse with HOD. I was entering Nascar 1 at almost 10mph faster than my last time here.
View attachment 96011 View attachment 96012 View attachment 96009 View attachment 96008 View attachment 96010 View attachment 96013

I was still dialing in my new video setup at this event, so I don't have great in-car video or any data. But here's a clip of me chasing a Z/28 until traffic got in the way and I couldn't catch him again.

Thanks for this post. My ‘14 is nearly a twin to yours. I have the Steeda wing in my cart but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Based on your build thread pics, it looks like the Steeda wing replaced the factory spoiler. That speed increase seems like a good improvement.

Interesting list of cooling improvements, I am not that far along yet. Center hood louvers are the next on my list. I don’t have any temp info other than what we are given from the virtual factory calculated oil temp gauge as a temp warning. CHT is real gauge (I think) and it doesn’t spike along with oil temp when on track.

 

[noldevin]

Thanks for this post. My ‘14 is nearly a twin to yours. I have the Steeda wing in my cart but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Based on your build thread pics, it looks like the Steeda wing replaced the factory spoiler. That speed increase seems like a good improvement.

Interesting list of cooling improvements, I am not that far along yet. Center hood louvers are the next on my list. I don’t have any temp info other than what we are given from the virtual factory calculated oil temp gauge as a temp warning. CHT is real gauge (I think) and it doesn’t spike along with oil temp when on track.

For me, coolant temps have never been an issue at all. Oil has always gotten pretty toasty though. So far the hood vent hasn't helped a whole lot with oil temps, but there's a large gap between the radiator and splitter that I need to fill, and the shop didn't replace the rest of the engine under tray so I'm debating if it's worth trying to get a new one or fashion something else or just leave it.