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What did you do to your Boss 302 or S197 today?

Bill Pemberton

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Oh, well, forgot she and I were Military brats and I can't get too offended, since I am not from there either. I do wish the CU vs NU was still going strong as it was a good rivalry , and nowadays the only mega rivalry is with the Univ. of Iowa. Now there is a fight among the " Children of the Corn!"
 

GB899

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charged up the battery aired up the tires this week and took the Boss to the Covid Cars & Coffee show this morning... first time out of the garage this year... it was a blast driving it there and back and chatting with old friends thru masks 6 ft apart... not quite like "normal", but close enough for now... felt good to leave the house in the Boss...
 

Bill Pemberton

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Thanks for posting Rob, sounds like something a lot of us in Omaha area should consider in the coming weeks. I know you prefer to be 6 ft. from me anyway, so should be easy to comply,ha!
 

carver

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Thanks, looking forward to seeing them.
Roughly a 5x8" cutout. I stayed inside the rib on the inner plastic for strength.
bossvent3.jpg


Looking forward you can see wide open air passage with the cutout. I reversed the horn mount so they are up and out of the way.

bossvent2.jpg


I fabricated the deflectors from heavyish curved plastic . The wheels don't rub at all. The marks you see were already on the plastic.
I'm waiting on new front brakes and pads, but I'm going to Shannonville this week to shake it down and see if I still get fade on stock Brembo's first . One thing at a time :oops:
I will let you know after Thursday.

bossvent.jpg
 
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carver

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Great idea. Do you have anything to protect your tie rods ends? Like the GT500 shields. The airflow should be sufficient when moving, but once you stop,..

Not yet Coz , but I will monitor it to see if I need to add shields. Hopefully with the venting and a cool down lap It will be ok..
 

nyuk98GT

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Howdy TMO-ers,

At last, I have something to post.

Installed Vorshlag caster/camber plates! Gorgeous hardware, really well made. It was not a tough job although the first side took much longer than the second since I was taking my time and was a bit nervous when first doing the spring compressor work. The top coil is a really snug fit onto the aluminum mount and I used a wood clamp (not a metal c-clamp) to pull that coil into place. Both sides were the same, quite snug.

I hit a self-inflicted snag during assembly because it turns out that I incorrectly specified plates for the FRPP strut/shock kit (M-18000-C rather than the correct -A). The upper insert did not fit over the fatter threads (14 mm) so I had to pester Vorshlag for new inserts. Those guys are 110% awesome in customer service, as I am sure you all know.

The upper nut is difficult to torque down. I got a 21 mm strut socket from Steeda and a 6-pt box end wrench (SK Tools). I have an electric impact wrench but I'm picky about torquing fasteners. Even with a few bursts of the impact wrench, the nut needed some further tightening.

With the correct inserts installed, I have the camber set at "4 lines (out of 6) from the fender - should be fine until I can get the car aligned (I know, I know, I should do it myself). Steering has sharpened up just rolling around the town. There is a bit more noise but, honestly, barely more than with GT500 strut mounts.

A long post to say that this is a very nice mod for even a weekend driver, imo. It's a real pity that those purdy plates have to hide beneath the strut tower.

Chris
 

carver

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Had a great day at Shannonville today with JDee and the crew. Happy to report that the brake ducting/cooling work made a huge difference with no brake fade issues at all. Still using stock rotors and pads btw. Definitely need bigger and stick-yer rubber on the Boss. Having said that it ran perfect and is a blast to drive ( as most of you are aware !! ) :)

Mustang shannonville3.jpg
Mustang shannonville4.jpg
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
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While doing suspension and fluid maintenance on the Boss for two track days at HPR in two weeks, I discovered that I had developed a leak in the remote clutch reservoir yesterday. Although the fluid level did not look like it changed much, I found fluid on the mount. I cleaned it up and took it for a quick spin around the neighborhood and when I parked the car, I had lost about two ounces of fluid. It seems the plastic Wilwood reservoir bottle has become loose and it was leaking at the bottom. I think when I removed the cap, the reservoir spun a bit and the hose clamp holding it on had loosened up. I tightened the clamp up and this morning it doesn't look like I lost any more fluid but will have to take her out for a spin to confirm the fix. The remote kit I bought was a Shelby one (SHEL031) and if it's bad, I think I located the correct Wilwood plastic reservoir and cap for this kit to replace. I'd hate to think what would happen if I found this out while on the track.
 

67GTA

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While doing suspension and fluid maintenance on the Boss for two track days at HPR in two weeks, I discovered that I had developed a leak in the remote clutch reservoir yesterday. Although the fluid level did not look like it changed much, I found fluid on the mount. I cleaned it up and took it for a quick spin around the neighborhood and when I parked the car, I had lost about two ounces of fluid. It seems the plastic Wilwood reservoir bottle has become loose and it was leaking at the bottom. I think when I removed the cap, the reservoir spun a bit and the hose clamp holding it on had loosened up. I tightened the clamp up and this morning it doesn't look like I lost any more fluid but will have to take her out for a spin to confirm the fix. The remote kit I bought was a Shelby one (SHEL031) and if it's bad, I think I located the correct Wilwood plastic reservoir and cap for this kit to replace. I'd hate to think what would happen if I found this out while on the track.
I had the exact same issue with the reservoir leaking at the base. While replacing the clutch master I noticed the shelby bracket was wet. The paint in the area below looked pretty bad, however I assumed it was from spilled fluid from previous brake fluid flushes & bleeding. Decided to completely disassemble and removed the reservoir from the aluminum base. The o-ring had clearly been pinched and damaged when it was assembled. I ordered the Wilwood kit, 260-11098, from Summit, not for the reservoir, but really for the o-ring that comes on the plastic base in the kit — knowing that it was the exact right size AND intended to be used with brake fluid. A fresh new reservoir was the bonus for a $26 o-ring!

I found the real issue when trying to install the new o-ring - the grove that’s machined into the aluminum base of the Shelby bracket is too narrow for the o-ring. It wouldn’t sit down flush in the channel, which allowed the plastic reservoir edge to damage the seal when they pushed it down into place. I widened the channel with a Dremel cut off wheel until the o-ring would sit down in there properly. Depth of the channel was fine - it was the side to side width that was the issue. Once that was fixed, the new tank slid on the way it was supposed to be and has been leak free ever since.

The Shelby base is a very nicely machined aluminum piece, which leads me to believe if the channel was incorrect in mine, it most likely is on all of them, and likely that many had the seal damaged to some degree upon assembly.
 

Competition Orange

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Had a great day at Shannonville today with JDee and the crew. Happy to report that the brake ducting/cooling work made a huge difference with no brake fade issues at all. Still using stock rotors and pads btw. Definitely need bigger and stick-yer rubber on the Boss. Having said that it ran perfect and is a blast to drive ( as most of you are aware !! ) :)
Any way to get actual temperatures? temp paint on rotors, etc? Cool idea.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
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Detailed Miss Kona today, started with a hand wash and to my surprise when I popped open the trunk lid I found a leak!

So took a detail detour and discovered 2 of 4 mounting bolts were leaking on the L/Side of the GT500 rear deck spoiler. In that area there is also a 1.0” factory hole that needed a reseal as well. R&R the spoiler & used clear silicone sealer to seal all the attachment holes, Then water 💦 tested an hour later & no leaks. Thank goodness.

Resumed detail duty & finished up with a ceramic detail product. Nice stuff, easy on & extra easy off. Dry Microfiber towels just slip right off the hood. Used mothers back to black for all the black plastic bits. Good stuff.

All the best,
 

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