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What to change/uprade for the Drag strip?

Im getting ready to start running the 1/4 mile. Im going to be using MT Drag Radials 305/35/19/ What are the weak links in our Boss cars that need to be addressed as to not be breaking down at the track. What are necessary mods for strength and peace of mind or What is most likely to break or cause problems in order of importance or most likely to break down..... 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc.

Those of you who race have already been thru this trial and error period, so your wisdom is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.

Dave
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Well I ran mine stock at the strip. Sounded like the driveshaft was going to explode when I gave it a hard launch. So I recommend a one piece driveshaft. DSS to be exact. Also found it hard to consistantly find 3rd and not 5th under full tilt shifting at the track so a MGW shifter was in order. I would also get a line lock like JPC line lock to save your rear brakes when you warm up the tires at the track. A shift light is also in order cause the stock tach is hard to be precise without hitting the limiter. I went with a raptor shift light only a three wire hook up. And then my clutch started to stick to the floor at the track and on the street so I upgraded to a Centerforce DYAD clutch kit. You might be able to avoid this upgrade by pulling the clutch assist spring.

so in summary:
DSS Drive shaft
MGW shifter (or barton/fordracing)
JPC Line lock
Raptor shift light
Remove Clutch assist spring (if your clutch starts to fail to come back up off of the floor)
Twin disc clutch if the spring removal doesnt work.

If you get wheel hop
LCA and relocation brackets (I run BBR billet lowers and bmr relocation brackets)
Upper control arm and bracket (recommend steeda's set up or BMR)
 
Justin said:
Well I ran mine stock at the strip. Sounded like the driveshaft was going to explode when I gave it a hard launch. So I recommend a one piece driveshaft. DSS to be exact. Also found it hard to consistantly find 3rd and not 5th under full tilt shifting at the track so a MGW shifter was in order. I would also get a line lock like JPC line lock to save your rear brakes when you warm up the tires at the track. A shift light is also in order cause the stock tach is hard to be precise without hitting the limiter. I went with a raptor shift light only a three wire hook up. And then my clutch started to stick to the floor at the track and on the street so I upgraded to a Centerforce DYAD clutch kit. You might be able to avoid this upgrade by pulling the clutch assist spring.

so in summary:
DSS Drive shaft
MGW shifter (or barton/fordracing)
JPC Line lock
Raptor shift light
Remove Clutch assist spring (if your clutch starts to fail to come back up off of the floor)
Twin disc clutch if the spring removal doesnt work.

If you get wheel hop
LCA and relocation brackets (I run BBR billet lowers and bmr relocation brackets)
Upper control arm and bracket (recommend steeda's set up or BMR)

Thanks brother....Im doing the AE 3.5 driveshaft, mgw, and differential cover with strengthening bolts. Steeda is just down the road so I will probably go with their uppers and lowers. Wasn't considering line lock. The clutch I will have to investigate wtd. Im expecting low 11's when set up correctly.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
KonaBlue302 said:
Thanks brother....Im doing the AE 3.5 driveshaft, mgw, and differential cover with strengthening bolts. Steeda is just down the road so I will probably go with their uppers and lowers. Wasn't considering line lock. The clutch I will have to investigate wtd. Im expecting low 11's when set up correctly.
low 11's stock? or do you have some mods done to the engine? I just bought a SVE big and little tire combo from LMR with the new 275/60 mickey thompson et pro tires out back. have to wait till next season to try them out though.
 
I broke the stock driveshaft using M/T 19" drag radials. MGW is a must as well for me. I know a guy who always out runs me using the stock shifter though. I installed the Steeda LCA's. They helped the car track straight on the launch. I didn't go for the upper because I didn't want to mess with pinion angle. Don't go hard through a turn with those M/T's. They are good for going straight only!
 
Justin said:
low 11's stock? or do you have some mods done to the engine? I just bought a SVE big and little tire combo from LMR with the new 275/60 mickey thompson et pro tires out back. have to wait till next season to try them out though.

No, not stock. Ive got AED tune, GT500's, no cats, & JLT oil separater & JLT cold air. I still need the LCA's, Aluminum DS, MGW, Drag radials I should be fairly deep into the 11's with all that. Some fine tuning w/Shaun @AED, some 100 unleaded octane and a nice cold crisp 40-50 Degree night w/low humidity at the track and I should be clip off some sub 11:40's. It will take me awhile to dial it in but when I do, it will be sick. I read one of the forum members (Unrealford) was running 11:90's with drag radials and a MGW. Pretty sure that was it.

That being said...Alum DS is worth close 2 tenths, a tune, cold air Intake, exhaust etc should get me close to my goal. Add in that cold air and we will see. Watch, I'll end up having a hard time bustin a sub 13 sec run...lol.

My buick T type is a pretty quick street car. It runs solid 10:60-80's and I can drive it from florida to California without having a problem, a/c the whole way. I have to say, if I can get the boss to hook up its gonna be a quick car based on my ass dyno. Ok enough BS'ing
 
seca954 said:
I broke the stock driveshaft using M/T 19" drag radials. MGW is a must as well for me. I know a guy who always out runs me using the stock shifter though. I installed the Steeda LCA's. They helped the car track straight on the launch. I didn't go for the upper because I didn't want to mess with pinion angle. Don't go hard through a turn with those M/T's. They are good for going straight only!

Yeah I figured the tires weren't great for handling. The DS is getting replaced soon. I decided to do all the preventative stuff before I started beatin the piss out of it And having to deal with break downs.

I don't want to relocate uppers and all that crap, probably just do lowers.

Thanks Seca
Dave
 
Sean said:
New rear differential lol. The Torsens and drag racing don't play very well together.

I know the torsen hates the drag strip. That's why im going to strengthen it w/the differential cover and bolts or maybe a whiteline setup.
 
unrealford said:
How often do you plan on going.

Well we have test and tune every wed and Friday evening and the track is 30 min from my home so I'd like to say fairly often this winter. It will be the best time to lay down some good times in the cold, and at sea level(florida).

And congrats on your 11:90's in stock trim, very impressive. Your times are what im basing my goals off of BTW ;) And no, I didn't run it stock because I bought it used a month ago and it had a tune, whose I have no idea, and the JLT CAI. So I figured i'd just put all of the proven upgrades on and then hit the track. Then do all of the fine tuning. I hate buying parts only to have to buy better or diff parts because I didn't do my homework.

Thanks,
Dave
 
KonaBlue302 said:
Yeah I figured the tires weren't great for handling. The DS is getting replaced soon. I decided to do all the preventative stuff before I started beatin the piss out of it And having to deal with break downs.

I don't want to relocate uppers and all that crap, probably just do lowers.

Thanks Seca
Dave

One more thing about the M/T's. Unless you plan to buy a spare set of matching Boss 19" wheels for the M/T's, I think you'd be better off getting a spare set of 15" wheels and tires. If you only have one set of wheels and drive the M/T's all the time, the car will handle terrible. I went with the 19's because I prefer to keep a car looking as stock as possible. IMO the 15's will hook better than the 19's. The 19's are good but don't make them your only set of tires.
 

unrealford

Mustang owner since 84
521
0
Try running a bias drag radial, or a 15 inch Radial Street. If u run 17 or larger there's no enough sidewall and you'll never get good enough traction and your drive train will thank you. It will take the shock.
I've got 50 plus runs on my. Torsen, and it works fine.
[email protected] on stock factory tires.
And [email protected] on drag radials. Stock tune on both recorded runs.
 
unrealford said:
Try running a bias drag radial, or a 15 inch Radial Street. If u run 17 or larger there's no enough sidewall and you'll never get good enough traction and your drive train will thank you. It will take the shock.
I've got 50 plus runs on my. Torsen, and it works fine.
[email protected] on stock factory tires.
And [email protected] on drag radials. Stock tune on both recorded runs.

Are you using a 26" or 28" tall tire?
 
seca954 said:
One more thing about the M/T's. Unless you plan to buy a spare set of matching Boss 19" wheels for the M/T's, I think you'd be better off getting a spare set of 15" wheels and tires. If you only have one set of wheels and drive the M/T's all the time, the car will handle terrible. I went with the 19's because I prefer to keep a car looking as stock as possible. IMO the 15's will hook better than the 19's. The 19's are good but don't make them your only set of tires.

I just got a set of FRPP 302S racing rims, the same as the laguna seca but black, So I have the originals and these, The originals are going to get some road racing tires and im going to get 2 more 19x10 rears to match these for the M/T's. I like to keep it looking the same....no mix n match.
 

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