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thx gents..I’ll get under it today & look..another idea is a few rare earth magnets holding a copper tab on/near the oil pan drain bolt.My TT Endurance gauge with an insert tab into the fins of my dirtbike oil cooler works great, but I don’t... (see full post)
I know it's not a direct fit you need a proper aftermarket ECU to use it properly and who knows what else. Which is why I solved that issue for me by going back to OEM rear pads. (see full post)
The FP350 module isn’t a direct fit and the costs adds up quickly between additional parts and development. Quite a few posts on here with people trying to get it to work. I know one stating it may not be worth the hassle but I know “worth”...
I'm happy with -3 to -3.2 on AR1/A052 and lap times are good enough and wear is around the 200 laps mark so can't complain. Though my tracks are small around 3 km.
I dunno. I ran slightly over -4 on my '16 and the tire wear was virtually perfect. Good for a couple of seconds a lap vs -2.5. That was with 305 Nankang AR1s and Vredestein Vorti Rs.You need to get a bit radical with cutting out the strut...
Yeah that makes sense — especially with engine bay and undercar flow, there’s definitely a lot going on there most people don’t see.
What I’ve been focusing on is mapping the external airflow side — pressure zones, rider position, and how...
Front -3.5 and rear only -1.75(1) The rear camber kind of surprised me.(2) I wonder if these settings changed when they changed to stickier tires on 18" wheels? (see full post)
AAD camber arms, no question. They're inexpensive, look good, work perfectly, have the best design, reduce weight and are made in Nebraska (or something like that). It's not even a discussion in my book.
The FP350 module isn’t a direct fit and the costs adds up quickly between additional parts and development. Quite a few posts on here with people trying to get it to work. I know one stating it may not be worth the hassle but I know “worth”... (see full post)
I'm sure it's an insurance thing. Track and HPDE group not following NJSP rules recommendation,
is probably a non-starter. And not to get too political, but it probably matters which state we are talking about too.
(so far, I don't know of any... (see full post)
I think the cheaper option is the FP350S ABS module for our cars:https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-fp350s-abs-module-kit-bracket/p/M2353D/?srsltid=AfmBOoo8L1ePrr4IQcMw-Gdq7OypLCaZyvZZulD_enE_ak6-9QZfbE1oOr even the Boss 302S... (see full post)
I find if I "spike" the brakes at higher speed, I get the wooden pedal. Release and reapply smoother input and it works better. Had this frequently into turn 7 at Sebring while trying to push the brake zone. Smoother initial hit followed by a...
At that point Brakes Master and Clutch master cylinders (in the clutch pedal) are to blame. I would replace the Brakes Master if you didn't already did that and check for brake fluid under the clutch pedal (the sign of a failed clutch master) but... (see full post)
I am just sharing this here because a forum member at mustang7G.com posted an image to show how to adjust rear camber, and I thought maybe others here might want to see it.It is post # 6.One bolt through a slot. Loosen it two turns to push...