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Thus began my search for a shorter strut package, or possible some cheapo coil overs, what I discovered was that Fox body struts are shorter when compared to the 99-04 units.
With that info in hand, I decided on a set of KYB adjustable units.
The next dilemma was to rebuild the Cobra brakes, you can locate these rebuilt, but the ones with the COBRA stamp are $250 for each, so I set about rebuilding my own, since nobody does that anymore, the kits are very hard to locate, I finally found a set from Summit and ordered them...
I then set about disassembling the calipers and bead blasting them..
I used the heat gun to heat up the aluminum so it would accept the caliper paint.
So while assembling the PBR calipers, I had to fight to get the seals to index correctly on the caliper, I seriously considered tossing the seals, but decided what the heck, I'll go with them. I have some limited experience with PBS brakes based on the Porsche program, and although these are not the same design, there was plenty of complaining about those calipers as well. There is a reason Brembo was created
this is a side shot of the seal, showing the "lips" that have to index on the caliper and the piston
The tendency is to drive the piston to the bottom of the bore and then seat the seal, that would make sense if the seal were a normal type with a metal ring around them, these aren't these suck, and are a PITA. As you can see when the piston is not driven all the way down, this way you can snake the seal into the caliper, then you can place it on the piston. (pic 2)
In pic 3 we see what happens when the piston is driven to the bottom of the bore, the seal cannot be forced into the caliper, but only the piston, if this happens take some compressed air and carefully blow the piston back out using the brake line hole, and go to pic 2.
Also, in pic 4 we see all the parts correctly indexed on both the piston and the caliper, this is quite the PITA, don't use a screw driver to force the seal in, you will tear it, use something round, and work your way around the seal to get it in, then pound the piston all the way into the bore
Great build! Reminds me of the instructions I had for a set of struts, Caution, follow all torque specs! Then it shows an impact gun installing the top nut of the strut, apparently one should have a gun that can be set to 76 ft lbs.
OK. so next step was to install the throttle, and clutch cable out of the parts car, along with the pedal assembly. That free GT has really been a huge benefit...
the gutted interior with the pedals installed..
The only part of the dash support that will be used..the steering support, I will have to reinforce this a bit though.
OK, I got some more work done, plumbed the brakes, rebuilt the calipers and installed the prop valve, bled them, not too many leaks. and finally, at least one system on the car functions.
The rears with the grooved rotors from the parts car
Underhood plumbing master cylinder and booster
Proportioning valve, and as you can see some clown cut the strengthening support partially out of the trans tunnel, that will need to be addressed
put the stearing support into position, the rest was cut away
Got out the old Eastwood fender roller and went to work, it takes a bit to set up but works much better than the old method of beating the crap out of it with a hammer and dolly
Finished the bottom end.
The paint marks tell me the bolts are torqued and I haven't missed any
and for those kids that have never installed a cam, this is how it's done old school, put the bolt in, grab it with some vise grips and slide it through the bearings.
Ravaged the local swap meet.. E303 cam (new) , Trick flow springs and retainers(new) BBK headers (used), Melling high flow pump (new) HEI/Ford distributor and wires (new) an intake of dubious origin (new) and a set of FP roller lifters (new)...$725.00
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