Hi from Germany,

I joined this forum because there’s very limited real track experience with Mustangs over here, especially when it comes to pushing them hard. Most cars are used more for street or show, so it’s difficult to find reliable, experience-based technical input. That’s why I’m looking to learn from people who actually run these cars at the limit.
I’m currently running two cars (with manual transmission) on the Nürburgring Nordschleife:
A Ford Mustang Mach 1, built as a dedicated track car. The interior is completely stripped and a cage is going in soon. It runs an MCS 3-way coilover setup, which led me to reinforce and weld the rear upper shock mounts at the chassis. The rear towers are also tied together with a brace inside the car. In addition, I’ve installed several drivetrain stiffening components and the car is tuned.
Brakes are a Mov’it setup. Tires are Nankang CRS in 285/35 R19 square.
I’m driving the car pretty hard. I’ve already had a major crash (guardrail contact) and rebuilt the car afterwards. It’s currently running its third transmission.
My second car is a stock Ford Mustang Dark Horse, which I also run regularly on the Nordschleife.
For reference:
The Mach 1 runs mid-7 minute laps.
The Dark Horse, on street tires, runs high 7s to low 8s.
The main issue with both cars is heat.
I’m currently running Ravenol RSS 5W50 engine oil in both cars.
Transmission fluid is Ravenol Mercon ATF LV.
The differential is currently running 75W85, but I’m planning to switch to 75W140 due to the high thermal load.
On the Mach 1, I’ve already pushed coolant temps into the red, which likely affected the cylinder wall coating. I’ve also lost two transmissions so far, which strongly suggests that transmission temperatures are getting out of control as well.
The Mach 1 doesn’t have a factory oil temp sensor, so I’m currently installing a Canchecked system to properly monitor engine oil and transmission temperatures.
The Dark Horse shows similar behavior:
At around 20°C ambient, I’ve already seen oil temps of about 137°C, including power reduction.
Long story short:
As soon as I push the cars properly on track, I’m clearly running into thermal limits.
What I’m looking for is real-world input on:
Effective cooling solutions (engine, oil, transmission, differential)
Track-proven setups that actually hold up under hard use
Typical temperature ranges for comparable builds
Recommendations for proper monitoring and sensor setups
I’m not looking for theoretical ideas, but for solutions that actually work under real track conditions.
Any input is highly appreciated.

No one on track is running an electric water pump? I don’t have any real world data and I don’t track, but do drag race. I’m installing a huge 88MM single turbo which will make temps climb a bit more than normal, so I added several things to help control temps.

1. Davies Craig EWP 150 sensor added to side of coolant neck
2. Delta PAG 14” PWM fan sensor added to inline radiator hose adapter
3. Jet Hot coated headers and hot side piping (2000* coating)
4. I do have an external fluid pump for my transmission to keep it the forward gears and bearing lubricated.

I’m sure you have an oil cooler right? That’s about all I can think of for now. My car is a manual tranny, but I do think everything I mentioned could also benefit a 10R80 car as well.

Delete duplicate video

Delete duplicate video

Better pic of Davies Craig EWP 150 and a demonstration video. Note: Video appears to contain an older version of the controller.

@Ring_Mach1 your pics don't appear to show any true hood venting?


Welcome!

For a full on track build i suggest you search for Honeybadger and be prepared for a monster read.
For a more road style track car you can go through my build. I had similar issues with temps and wanted a car that would survive. Factory data doesn't tell the truth as a lot is calculated. I went down the path of data logging actual temps. Coolers on engine, gearbox and differential. Radiator and bonnet venting upgrades. Work in progress.
I was lucky in choosing an earlier car as i was told later that differential temp will pull power out on the 18+ cars. It probably the first thing that will overheat with such a small capacity of oil.
@Fabman will be another good source of what it takes to thrash a coyote and make it survive.

Welcome and I'm sure there will be plenty of suggestions coming your way.

GAR944 said:

I was lucky in choosing an earlier car as i was told later that differential temp will pull power out on the 18+ cars. It probably the first thing that will overheat with such a small capacity of oil.
@Fabman will be another good source of what it takes to thrash a coyote and make it survive.

Welcome and I'm sure there will be plenty of suggestions coming your way.

Click to expand...

I know of a few 17 cars entering limp mode because of differential temps but were mostly automatic cars so maybe the Manual doesn't have the sensor.

Have you looked at the cooling modifications on the GT4 Dark Horse R cars? They have the largest Setrab oil cooler, an aftermarket radiator, and large holes drilled through the fan shroud to let air pass through the shroud at speed.

There are aftermarket transmission fluid coolers, too.

I see stevebd already mentioned venting the hood - if you get that air into the coolers and radiator, you need some way to let it out, or you will be restricting air flow.

Ring_Mach1 said:

The Mach 1 doesn’t have a factory oil temp sensor, so I’m currently installing a Canchecked system to properly monitor engine oil and transmission temperatures.

Click to expand...

Did you get this installed yet?

Lots of cooling threads to pick up info from on this site. I Know European drivers are a little adverse to running wide rubber but 285/35-19 is way to narrow for a tracked mustang. I would start at 305 and go up if possible. Your track times will thank you!!!

@steveespo can you share the link to the DHR tech bulletins/approved mods document? That would probably be a great starting point here.

bnight said:

I'm A Competitor

www.fordracing.com

Click to expand...

Excellent, thank you. I need to bookmark this.

Does anybody know which PWR double pass racing radiator?

They give part numbers for most other things, but not this.

PWR has several, and then there is the universal, they have a 42 mm (not much if any upgrade) and a 55 mm. If you select the 55 mm, then there are 10 different options, 8 if you eliminate the options with fans.

The bulletin linked above indicates that the fan shroud (with Swiss cheese holes drilled all over it, different bulletin) mounts to the radiator - there does not appear to be much of anything in the way of modifications needed to install this radiator. No fabrication at all.

Junkyard Dog said:

https://www.fordracing.com/content/dam/fordPerformance/motorsport/mustang-challenge/pdfs/MC-TSB-10-6-19-2024-Double-Pass-Radiator.pdf

Does anybody know which PWR double pass racing radiator?

They give part numbers for most other things, but not this.

PWR has several, and then there is the universal, they have a 42 mm (not much if any upgrade) and a 55 mm. If you select the 55 mm, then there are 10 different options, 8 if you eliminate the options with fans.

The bulletin linked above indicates that the fan shroud (with Swiss cheese holes drilled all over it, different bulletin) mounts to the radiator - there does not appear to be much of anything in the way of modifications needed to install this radiator. No fabrication at all.

Click to expand...

There tons of other radiators that will do just the same job I recently order the Mishimoto Ultimate Bundle for my car (Mishimoto Radiator 52 mm+Oil Cooler+Aluminium Coolant Tank) to take care of this heating issues. But there a lot of very useful modifications like heat rapping the exhaust near the differential to prevent heat transfer.

bnight said:

There tons of other radiators that will do just the same job I recently order the Mishimoto Ultimate Bundle for my car (Mishimoto Radiator 52 mm+Oil Cooler+Aluminium Coolant Tank) to take care of this heating issues. But there a lot of very useful modifications like heat rapping the exhaust near the differential to prevent heat transfer.

Click to expand...

For the S650, Mishimoto does not make a 52mm radiator. 42mm is the thickest core, and not really an upgrade over the stock Dark Horse radiator.

Now that I know that there is a PWR dual pass radiator that fits without fabrication, I am going to find out which one. Maybe it is the 55mm version, but I will look further.