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A great day followed by a BAD night - rear brake issue

Apex3V

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Hate to hear about this, I second the idea for the 13.8in rotor on the rear, I think it would definitely dissipate the heat better than stock. I'd feel fortunate that a catastrophic failure didn't occur while on track at least.
 

Duane Black

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I woke up this morning to find a massive puddle under the other wheel. I played shuffle in the driveway to get it in the garage and drive my 1968 Torino to work today.

The only place I see motorcraft new calipers is Rock Auto. Thoughts?
 

Coz

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TascaParts also has them for slightly more - $141.33. But not sure if they come with the hardware.

Go with whoever has the fastest/cheapest shipping.

Upgrade your brake lines while you're at it.
 

Duane Black

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Duane, I have replaced 4 of the parts store brand rebuilt rear calipers, it seems once pads wear enough they leak, I carry a spare set with me, trying to get a set of OEM but they seem hard to find.

@scmscout So are you not having problems so long as you replace pads at say, half wear? My right one sprung a leak over night and shook me up again. Both sides of course had similar pad wear, looks like the RR held up a tad bit longer.

The same set of calipers ran Road Atlanta with good brake pad in them and I drove home just fine on those. I think @Bill Pemberton was on to something about how it was heat related.

I tell ya, all of this starts making Miatas look tempting... then I can just have my caliper bolts back out on me!! LOL
 

Coz

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Coz

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They're a 10 minute install (if you are already in there) and they work great.

I used them for about a year until I upgraded my rear diff to a Torsen. While I was at it I upgraded my rear axles and changed the axle brackets to the GT500 parts. I sold my adapter brackets.
 

Duane Black

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BTW I kind of understand how a brake caliper works... but is it more the heat from the pads wearing out that makes these leak, or those the seal that "rolls" along that piston just get screwed up as it rolls out that far?
 

2012-Boss

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I think the problem is that the parts house re-manufactured calipers simply aren't up to the same build standards as a new Ford caliper. Cheaper seals, bigger tolerances in the piston to bore clearance, etcetera.

I do not think your problem is a rear brake heat management issue. I think it is cheap components.

I have never seen an OEM rear caliper leak on any of the track Mustangs I have worked on. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but I have never seen one leak.

Steve Esposito did run his rears down into into the backing plates a few years ago and the pad backing plates actually bent and the piston overextended / popped out. He just replaced pads and re-seated the piston and kept running. No more leaks. Again, OEM calipers.
 

Duane Black

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Ok next question. Do I want a new or remanufactured Motorcraft?

Is Ford keeping its remanufacturing process in house? Or are the same cheap $@%R@# companies making these for discount parts chains making Motorcraft remans too?
 
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scmscout

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Duane, if you are interested I have a pair of 13" rotors and the caliper brackets for sale if you want to go that way.
 

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