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ABS

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To clarify, does the RCM need to be connected to a PCM can bus? I am trying to get this system set up in a track car with a GM computer, do I connect the GM computer to the RCM via can bus or just connect the RCM to the ABS unit can bus?
Also, I do not see a ground wire going to the RCM, is it grounded to the chassis?
Thanks!
Dave
 
To clarify, does the RCM need to be connected to a PCM can bus? I am trying to get this system set up in a track car with a GM computer, do I connect the GM computer to the RCM via can bus or just connect the RCM to the ABS unit can bus?
Also, I do not see a ground wire going to the RCM, is it grounded to the chassis?
Thanks!
Dave

The RCM does not need to be connected to the PCM.
AFAIK it is usually advised not to connect it to a non-stock PCM as CAN networks might be incompatible.
Both my RCM and PCM are made by Ford and specifically for Coyotes, so I think I might have gotten lucky.

RCM and ABS can function as stand alone and do not require each other purely to turn and an respond.
I heard contradicting info about that the RCM beeing required for the ABS to work as intended though. @Tri-bar has RCM and ABS working in tandem without issues for years and running both is the save bet I would say.

Unless you need wheel speed or ABS data there should be no need to connect the ABS/RCM combo to anything else.

AFAIK the RCM is chassis grounded through the metal casesing.

Dont take my word for this, I am just putting out my last days findings and what I have seen to be working.
 
Appreciate the help!
Next issue, I'm using a non-Mustang master cylinder with a fairly standard front brake fitting of m12 1.5, 6mm tubing. The front line input to this ABS unit is a highly unusual M14 1.5, 8mm line.
I might have to switch to the Mustang master cylinder, but that booster looks really big, might not fit my project. Is there a thinner booster that is plug and play with the 11-14 Mustang master cylinder?
Thanks!
Dave
 
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I ended up ditching the GM master cylinder and am fitting the Mustang booster/MC. This system uses an unusual/non-standard 14mm thread fitting on the "SECONDARY" line from the MC to the pump. I'm looking for the brake lines between the master cylinder and the ABS pump, having trouble finding any on eBay, etc... Anyone have any leads? Thanks!
Dave

20240729_191236~2.jpg
 
Salvage yards that pull parts to list on eBay and the like often prefer to cut wires and hoses for expediency, but if you go to a pick-your-part place you can disassemble it however you please and can be a good place to find little obscure parts like that. :)
 
I'm currently working on updating the ABS system in my fox body mustang. I had originally install the 04 Cobra ABS module into my car which worked pretty good well enough to keep me from destroying tires. Now when I went to a Griggs SLA I couldn't get the SN95 ABS sensors to work with his spindles. I had always planned to update the ABS to S197 module. I have a 2009 GT500 ABS module right now with the connector. That was the plan until I found this thread now I'm thinking maybe I should use the 11-14 ABS module with the RCM. I'm just not sure if it's a big improvement over what I have.

Have any of you gone from the 2009 ABS to the 11-14 and found it was a big improvement. Does the addition of the RCM module with the yaw sensor improve the ABS function?
 
Disclaimer: This info is only for Race cars with standalone ECU setup. Ford's or otherwise.
ABS is installed and working. It turned out to be a lot easier than I expected. First it does work as a standalone system as long as you have a CAN bus. I do have it tied into the CAN bus from the ECU/OBD2. The Restraint Control Module also has it's own CAN bus that talks to the ABS unit. No brake switch to the ECU is used on the 2011-2014 systems. You can upgrade if you have the older systems. All you have to have is the 2011-2014 ABS pump/unit, RCM, ABS plug or harness. Junk yard for the harness and wires. I de-loomed the whole ABS harness and wheel sensors from my car and used them. That was the only factory wiring I used. The PDF's color codes are different on some of the wires than the Fords wiring diagrams just FYI.
The Four wheel speed sensors, a 40amp HAAT power lead, a 30amp HAAT power lead. a 5amp On/Reset switched power lead. Can bus +/- leads, RMC Can bus +/- leads to the ABS unit and two grounds. The RNC only needs ONE 10amp Power lead and the RCM CAN bus and the OBD2 CAN bus to work. All the other wires to the RCM can be removed. Between using the Ford Wiring Diagram and the Boss302R/S PDF's for the ABS harnesses it turned out to be real easy. Just time consuming because of all the splicing to route the wires the way I wanted them, but once its in, it worked.

View attachment 67462

View attachment 67463
Hi! I recently started my race car build and want to do this process. Can u please provide me with a step by step guide of exacly how and where to connect/wire the abs and RCM?
Also, Due to the fact that i have no other electric boxes or harnesses left in the car, i wonder how the doors will work with the up and down function for the windows when opening and closeing the Doors? Anyone who knows? Also, Where can i buy or access all these wiringdiagrams/pinouts? I see that u have some great pinouts there, Where did u get them?

Excuse me for stealing the Thread..
:)
 
Online shop manuals with wiring diagrams for S197 body era - https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=1
Hi! i've visited that page earlier when readin the thread, but i stil feel a little insecure about how to wire, but lets do it like this, is it right if i say that: 1. connect eveyrthing as the ABS wiring diagram says. 2. connect a 5amp switched +12V source to the RCM, as pinout says, to pin 13 on the small RCM connector. 3. connect 2 wires between RCM large conncetor pin 19 and 20 to ABS connector pin 8 and 9. have i got it right?
 
Disclaimer: This info is only for Race cars with standalone ECU setup. Ford's or otherwise.
ABS is installed and working. It turned out to be a lot easier than I expected. First it does work as a standalone system as long as you have a CAN bus. I do have it tied into the CAN bus from the ECU/OBD2. The Restraint Control Module also has it's own CAN bus that talks to the ABS unit. No brake switch to the ECU is used on the 2011-2014 systems. You can upgrade if you have the older systems. All you have to have is the 2011-2014 ABS pump/unit, RCM, ABS plug or harness. Junk yard for the harness and wires. I de-loomed the whole ABS harness and wheel sensors from my car and used them. That was the only factory wiring I used. The PDF's color codes are different on some of the wires than the Fords wiring diagrams just FYI.
The Four wheel speed sensors, a 40amp HAAT power lead, a 30amp HAAT power lead. a 5amp On/Reset switched power lead. Can bus +/- leads, RMC Can bus +/- leads to the ABS unit and two grounds. The RNC only needs ONE 10amp Power lead and the RCM CAN bus and the OBD2 CAN bus to work. All the other wires to the RCM can be removed. Between using the Ford Wiring Diagram and the Boss302R/S PDF's for the ABS harnesses it turned out to be real easy. Just time consuming because of all the splicing to route the wires the way I wanted them, but once its in, it worked.

View attachment 67462

View attachment 67463
I’ve got everything working but the rcm and abs. Do I just splice the rcm/abs can bus wires to the pcm? Already have the pcm spliced to the factory obd2 can bus wires.
 
Disclaimer: This info is only for Race cars with standalone ECU setup. Ford's or otherwise.
ABS is installed and working. It turned out to be a lot easier than I expected. First it does work as a standalone system as long as you have a CAN bus. I do have it tied into the CAN bus from the ECU/OBD2. The Restraint Control Module also has it's own CAN bus that talks to the ABS unit. No brake switch to the ECU is used on the 2011-2014 systems. You can upgrade if you have the older systems. All you have to have is the 2011-2014 ABS pump/unit, RCM, ABS plug or harness. Junk yard for the harness and wires. I de-loomed the whole ABS harness and wheel sensors from my car and used them. That was the only factory wiring I used. The PDF's color codes are different on some of the wires than the Fords wiring diagrams just FYI.
The Four wheel speed sensors, a 40amp HAAT power lead, a 30amp HAAT power lead. a 5amp On/Reset switched power lead. Can bus +/- leads, RMC Can bus +/- leads to the ABS unit and two grounds. The RNC only needs ONE 10amp Power lead and the RCM CAN bus and the OBD2 CAN bus to work. All the other wires to the RCM can be removed. Between using the Ford Wiring Diagram and the Boss302R/S PDF's for the ABS harnesses it turned out to be real easy. Just time consuming because of all the splicing to route the wires the way I wanted them, but once its in, it worked.

View attachment 67462

View attachment 67463
Tri Bar, going down this path and would like to pick your brain. Does the HS CAN and RCM CAN from C135 at the ABS module get connected to the RCM C2014B? And would it be worth the effort to connect the HS CAN to the gen 2 FRPP Control Pack?
 
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Is the abs valve block interchangeable between a 2009 and a 2013? I'm doing a coyote swap and have a donor 2013. Plan to just swap everything from the 2013 to the 2009. Trying to determine if I can just swap the abs module or do I need to swap the module and valve block. Thanks for any input.
 
Is the abs valve block interchangeable between a 2009 and a 2013? I'm doing a coyote swap and have a donor 2013. Plan to just swap everything from the 2013 to the 2009. Trying to determine if I can just swap the abs module or do I need to swap the module and valve block. Thanks for any input.
It’s a different block, you’ll need to swap the one from the 13.
 
To simplify my existing wiring, is it okay to have the main power feeds on pin 1 and 25 switched with my battery kill switch on my race car? This is Switched Off anytime the car is parked. Will this screw with the ABS internal ECU or does it need to be hot at all times definitely? I'm guessing somebody has already tried it in this configuration? Thanks!
Dave 1000012099.jpg
 
Yes those should be powered when you turn on the kill switch and off when you turn off the killswitch.
Pin 30 should be powered when you turn ignition on.
 
Thanks for the reply. In the Mustang chassis, they are both HAAT, directly wired to the battery essentially. I'm concerned that the internal abs computer might not like losing power every time the vehicle is shut down, kind of like an engine ECU needs a HAAT power lead. Although that's usually a low amperage HAAT, so I think you are right, as these high amp inputs likely feed the pump and solenoids now that I think about it...
 

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