S197 BackInBlack Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

[Firefighter46]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around what absolutely needs to be transferred from my pallet donor to the V6 chassis to make the Coyote work right.
I've learned that I don't need:
Body harness, and cowl harness
Fuel tank and pump
Don't necessarily need:
Clock spring, cluster, and keys
Can reuse:
Radiator, and degas bottle from V6
Need from pallet:
Pedal assembly, modules (PCM, BCM?)
Need to purchase
Driveshaft

I know I'm forgetting something but we're making progress.
If I mix and match parts between the two "cars" i.e. keep the V6 clock spring, key and cluster, do they interact with something like the BCM and if I use the V8 BCM will that cause issues? DO I even need to swap BCM's?

 

[BackInBlack]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around what absolutely needs to be transferred from my pallet donor to the V6 chassis to make the Coyote work right.
I've learned that I don't need:
Body harness, and cowl harness
Fuel tank and pump
Don't necessarily need:
Clock spring, cluster, and keys
Can reuse:
Radiator, and degas bottle from V6
Need from pallet:
Pedal assembly, modules (PCM, BCM?)
Need to purchase
Driveshaft

I know I'm forgetting something but we're making progress.
If I mix and match parts between the two "cars" i.e. keep the V6 clock spring, key and cluster, do they interact with something like the BCM and if I use the V8 BCM will that cause issues? DO I even need to swap BCM's?

You only need the pedal assembly because you need the clutch pedal. Gas pedal is the same and you can leave it if you want. PCM you absolutely need. BCMs are identical on both cars. They even had the same fuses in my case. But if you keep the V6 BCM you do have to reprogram it in FORScan. Driveshaft also needed. Might be a good chance for an upgrade if you have to buy one.

 

[Firefighter46]

I'm planning to get a one piece aluminum driveshaft for it.

I know the pallet didn't come with a premuim cluster, so I might just keep my V6 one in there.

My plan is to get the v6 on the pallet once I get it out and the V8 in, and make the V6 run to try and sell it. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it and it has relatively low miles.

 

[BackInBlack]

I'm planning to get a one piece aluminum driveshaft for it.

I know the pallet didn't come with a premuim cluster, so I might just keep my V6 one in there.

My plan is to get the v6 on the pallet once I get it out and the V8 in, and make the V6 run to try and sell it. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it and it has relatively low miles.

The premium cluster thing is a whole nother adventure... If your '13 V6 was a premium model and already has the buttons, then it might be an easy upgrade... If you have the base model buttons... Many have tried and few have succeeded in that, but it is possible. If you just want to get it running, stick with what you got. But if you want the premium, I can point you in the right direction.

 

[Firefighter46]

I could care less about the premium cluster at this point. My V6 is a base, and just fired up the cluster on the GT pallet and the cluster is the same. For the sake of the swap, I'll keep my cluster, clock spring and keys. Get the pedal assembly in, and probably swap the BCM. The rest is motor/transmission swap.
Do you think I'll have any issues with the clutch pedal electrical (clutch switch and or neutral safety stuff)? Do you know if it uses an interface harness of some type? Can't say I've looked closely at the pallet for that. It must have something or the engine wouldn't start, however the clutch pedal is all the way down at this point so the switch is made.

 

[BackInBlack]

I could care less about the premium cluster at this point. My V6 is a base, and just fired up the cluster on the GT pallet and the cluster is the same. For the sake of the swap, I'll keep my cluster, clock spring and keys. Get the pedal assembly in, and probably swap the BCM. The rest is motor/transmission swap.
Do you think I'll have any issues with the clutch pedal electrical (clutch switch and or neutral safety stuff)? Do you know if it uses an interface harness of some type? Can't say I've looked closely at the pallet for that. It must have something or the engine wouldn't start, however the clutch pedal is all the way down at this point so the switch is made.

That I don't know. But since I've never heard anything about it I'd guess not. I'd guess whatever that system is is integrated into the pedal assembly... If you find different let me know. I'd be curious to know about that one.

 

[BackInBlack]

I could care less about the premium cluster at this point. My V6 is a base, and just fired up the cluster on the GT pallet and the cluster is the same. For the sake of the swap, I'll keep my cluster, clock spring and keys. Get the pedal assembly in, and probably swap the BCM. The rest is motor/transmission swap.
Do you think I'll have any issues with the clutch pedal electrical (clutch switch and or neutral safety stuff)? Do you know if it uses an interface harness of some type? Can't say I've looked closely at the pallet for that. It must have something or the engine wouldn't start, however the clutch pedal is all the way down at this point so the switch is made.

Found these posts that should be helpful. Apparently there is a pigtail for the clutch. But since your pallet starts I'd reckon you have it there:

Auto to Manual Swap Neutral Safety Switch

Hello so I am just finishing up my auto to manual swap and the last issue I am having is the auto PCM and the manual transmission. I have already received the tune to fix the issue but I need to rewire my neutral safety switch. Right now I have the neutral safety switch from the auto plugged...

www.s197forum.com

2011 3.7L V6 6R80 to MT-82 swap completed

I want to start by saying before anyone goes and says why didn't you just trade your car in for a MT, or the second why did you go with the MT-82 and not the TR6060 or aftermarket T56 XL (which essentially is the TR6060), first is my car is painted and has a lot of appearance mods including full...

www.mustangevolution.com

 

[BackInBlack]

Lund tuned me. Datalog performed. 5 degrees knock at WOT on the Lund tune with the new gas I've been using. Fuel trims +12% at idle. Tuner believes unmetered air leak on the intake side.

Shaun at AED told me the same thing over a year ago. So -- back to the beginning. I've already done almost everything on the intake side. New plugs, new injectors, new ignition coils, new O2 sensors, new intake manifold, new intake hose... throttle body cleaned and tested, MAF cleaned and tested, new gaskets all around -- everything smoked and cleared more than once. I thought about this, and the one thing I'm not 100% sure on is the EVAP purge solenoid. I tested it before, but I'm not entirely sure that I tested it right. At this point I just said screw it, I'll just replace it. While I'm at it I'll throw on a new MAF sensor just to be sure.

I'm running low on ideas... maybe I get lucky this time. Anyway, thanks to Lund for the tune and diag. I can't properly review the Lund tune yet... Didn't really feel all that different. Maybe a little smoother acceleration? But I got an engine tapping noise with it that I didn't have before. Probably not a big deal but the tune just doesn't run well (I'm sure this has to do with my car, and not with Lund's tune) on my car as-is so I took it off for now. If anything changes after the new parts I'll throw it back on and send another datalog to Lund. ...oh yeah -- Lund also wants me to try some PCV breathers. I'm pretty skeptical of this but they're cheap so what the hell. Those are in the mail too.

I can't complain too much. The car is running better than ever. It just still isn't running right... Just waiting for the parts to come in now. Accidentally bought the wrong (GT) purge solenoid which is apparently a common issue for Boss owners.

 

[Firefighter46]

Found these posts that should be helpful. Apparently there is a pigtail for the clutch. But since your pallet starts I'd reckon you have it there:

Auto to Manual Swap Neutral Safety Switch

Hello so I am just finishing up my auto to manual swap and the last issue I am having is the auto PCM and the manual transmission. I have already received the tune to fix the issue but I need to rewire my neutral safety switch. Right now I have the neutral safety switch from the auto plugged...

www.s197forum.com

2011 3.7L V6 6R80 to MT-82 swap completed

I want to start by saying before anyone goes and says why didn't you just trade your car in for a MT, or the second why did you go with the MT-82 and not the TR6060 or aftermarket T56 XL (which essentially is the TR6060), first is my car is painted and has a lot of appearance mods including full...

www.mustangevolution.com

FInally got in the garage. The pedal assy has a separate harness alltogether, I'll sort that when I get to it.
One thing I noticed was that with the v6 I had to disconnect two separate fuel lines behine the drivers side strut tower. I can only assume a pressure and a return line. The coyote only looks like it has one fuel line hanging off of it. Any thoughts?

I have it hanging on the lift now, using the brackets everyone recommends. Not sure my Oberg lift is going to work all that well though. Since the brackets are diagonal from each other, I'm not getting a lot of tilt out of her. When I pulled the v6 Saturday I had the rear of the car jacked as far as I could and on stands, with the front tires on the ground. The v6 honestly came out as easy as any pushrod v8 I've done. This Coyote is a WIDE girl, and with the shifter on, she's going to make me earn it. I might get my other lift I used for the v6 that cranks with a screw handle instead of the Oberg.

 

[BackInBlack]

FInally got in the garage. The pedal assy has a separate harness alltogether, I'll sort that when I get to it.
One thing I noticed was that with the v6 I had to disconnect two separate fuel lines behine the drivers side strut tower. I can only assume a pressure and a return line. The coyote only looks like it has one fuel line hanging off of it. Any thoughts?

I have it hanging on the lift now, using the brackets everyone recommends. Not sure my Oberg lift is going to work all that well though. Since the brackets are diagonal from each other, I'm not getting a lot of tilt out of her. When I pulled the v6 Saturday I had the rear of the car jacked as far as I could and on stands, with the front tires on the ground. The v6 honestly came out as easy as any pushrod v8 I've done. This Coyote is a WIDE girl, and with the shifter on, she's going to make me earn it. I might get my other lift I used for the v6 that cranks with a screw handle instead of the Oberg.

I can only tell you that we didn't touch the fuel system. I did research beforehand and all of the parts and diagrams lined up. Course --- expect the feed lines to be different. But all of the other stuff is the same. To be very clear -- I paid a shop to do the engines. So I may be missing some of the small details.

When we did it, we dropped the K-member. Good luck man. You should start a thread -- document your process.

 

[Dave_W]

One thing I noticed was that with the v6 I had to disconnect two separate fuel lines behine the drivers side strut tower. I can only assume a pressure and a return line. The coyote only looks like it has one fuel line hanging off of it. Any thoughts?

Mustangs use a returnless fuel system. The other line is the "vapor tube" that vents fumes from the charcoal canister into the intake manifold through the evap purge valve.

 

[BackInBlack]

New Boss EVAP purge valve is in. Idle fuel trims before: +12%. Idle fuel trims after: +6%. Did I finally beat this thing? Or did my car just have a good hair day... time for some more logs...

I thoroughly inspected the old valve and could find nothing wrong with it. Hose isn't torn, o-ring still intact. I've heard that if they're bad sometimes that you can blow through them when they're off the car... not this one. It seems solidly blocked off... Maybe it gets stuck? Or maybe it just doesn't open properly? Anyone have any thoughts?

The car does seem different... acceleration is smoother -- and there is more ticking noise than before... noise from solenoid?

I'm not getting my hopes up yet but... if I spent all of that effort looking for this and it ended up being a $50 part... wow. That's how it goes sometimes I guess... At this point I don't care. If it's fixed... it's time to start having fun But really -- learning how to do these things is what I like about doing this the most. This car has taught me a lot. And the knowledge will stay with me long after this car is gone.

 

[GAR944]

I'm sure I've said this before, fingers crossed for you mate. The perseverance you have shown chasing this is wild. Got to have a win sometime.

 

[Firefighter46]

It's a matter of staying at it, and not losing interest and hope.
Even at the OE level, with all our resources and "smart" people, sometimes conversations over beers on a Friday after a week of beating our heads against a wall did more for moving projects forward.....

 

[BackInBlack]

Something is definitely different this time. Acceleration is smoother -- and I'm finally starting to see something I expected to see if I ever started to get a handle on this issue: my fuel milage improved...

Still not believing it so... gonna take it slow. First pulls will be on the stock tune. Hopefully that hurricane won't crap all over my roads this weekend.