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S197 Badger - 2011 S197 Gen3 Swap Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

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One more idle cause no matter how rough it is right now, it makes me quite happy.

Prior to firing up the car I did a lot of cleanup and took a good 20lbs of wiring out of it.
Little touch of paint on the center bar:
IMG_7242.jpeg

The rusty mess will certainly not be missed.
IMG_7294.jpeg

Took all the fuses and relays out that are not required anymore and removed all the left over wires as well.
IMG_7270.jpeg

Proceeded to shorten the chassis harness so it will fit under the dash instead of running all around the engine bay.
IMG_7336.jpeg
 
218
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Question: Has anyone used a the stock gauge cluster without PATS or non-stock can inputs?
It seams the PATS from the gauge cluster is messing with my control pack ECU and the car refuses to start with the gauge cluster hooked up. It works just fine without it.


Running two OEM can bus systems in parallel is a thing now. First shot was to see what happens when you straight up join them. Quite predictably nothing good was about to come from this:
DE2DA251-DCE7-4954-A01C-B811D765BA26.gif

I then moved the control pack harness to Can2 and it worked like a charm.
RPM, IAT and engine temp are coming from the control pack. Fuel level and wheel speed sensors from the Gen1 harness. Unless I am mistaken the ABS module is providing the wheel speed numbers, which suggests the ABS should be functional.
FuelPSI, Fueltemp and Oiltemp are custom sensors.
6E7C03D6-5938-4DE0-8A3E-F872B583233A.gif
The four lower left gauges are the wheel speed sensors.
 
218
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Is PATS in the gauge cluster in s197’s? I know in older fords it is. S550 is distributed between the PCM and BCM.

Sadly things managed to move backwards from here on. The starter stopped engaging altogether, not even the solenoid or signal is triggering right now. Grounds are all fine and it has been rather strange.

I go Forscan running but it has trouble with the control pack an its ECU ID and wont allow me to restore as-built data. Even HP tuner won`t allow me to restore my backup tune as its confused about the control pack ECU.

One thing I noticed though is that the clutch switch signal is having issues. No matter of physical switch position it will max out at 50%. I even jammed a wire into the connector to force the signal to 100% but the ECU sees it as 50%. I am unable to achieve the ccp_status "Clutch Fully Depressed".
Does this have an effect on the start protocol? I do not know but it certainly looks suspicious.


1649639654485.png
1649639711894.png
 
Hmmm couple ideas/questions:

your car has no remaining BCM right?

Is your cpp being fed the correct ref voltage? BCM supplies this normally. Where is it coming from now?

is there a “pats_enabl” PID in your PCM (not likely because it’s a control pack but maybe look anyways) or your IPC? If you find one it should show “enabled”.

Which “start” PID’s can you find in the PCM?

In my S550 there’s a shiznit tonand they all tell you about a different piece of the puzzle that makes up the start sequence.
in my case there were a number of starter block PID’s that showed me that it wasn’t cranking because the start request signal from upstream was not as the PCM expected so it was being blocked. In my case due to PATS. not sure how many of these PID’s still remain in the control pack Ecu.

clutch switch behavior is critical to the start sequence in a OEM PCM so it might be fairly important in the control packs as well. You cannot jumper a CPP in a gen 3 OEM Ecu and start it up as far as I could determine. Not sure about how picky the control pack pcm’s are in this regard.
 
54
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Drag Strip
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Under 3 Years
Florida
@Badger, I know the post on your MMR Head Cooling Mod is a year old, but I was wondering how’s it been working for you?

I just put one on my 2019 Bullitt and had the same question about the passenger side fitment with the crank sensor. The cooling block is very close to the wiring harness and it looks like it could potentially cause chafing to the harness. Have you found this to be an issue on your engine?

D37C6986-9B09-4E4F-AFB6-284E9FB4963E.jpeg
 
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Florida
@Badger, I have a couple more questions regarding the Head Cooling Mod.

1. Where did you relocate your driver’s side head ground strap to? See red arrow in pic.
2. I noticed that your heads appear to have Allen head plugs which would need to be removed to install an MMR Oil Cooling Mod, whereas mine just have small freeze plugs. Are you running Gen 2 heads? See red arrows in pic.

1672030413150.jpeg
Unfortunately, I overlooked the fact that MMR was currently working on this mod for the 2018+ 5.0 Mustang and ordered one for the 2015-2017. I’m still holding out hope that MMR will release the 2018+ version of it before I get my tranny rebuild and installed.
 
218
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Time Attack
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5-10 Years
CA
@Badger, I have a couple more questions regarding the Head Cooling Mod.

1. Where did you relocate your driver’s side head ground strap to? See red arrow in pic.
2. I noticed that your heads appear to have Allen head plugs which would need to be removed to install an MMR Oil Cooling Mod, whereas mine just have small freeze plugs. Are you running Gen 2 heads? See red arrows in pic.

View attachment 82233
Unfortunately, I overlooked the fact that MMR was currently working on this mod for the 2018+ 5.0 Mustang and ordered one for the 2015-2017. I’m still holding out hope that MMR will release the 2018+ version of it before I get my tranny rebuild and installed.

The car has not overheated once since the install. This sadly is due to me being busy in life than the actual part doing its work on a running car. So no feedback on that unfortunately.

I am jogging my memory on this. IIRC it had single use plugs that needed to be pulled
I also still need to find a spot for the ground strap as I am unable to reach the stock location at this point. I will post here once I have figures it out.

I got ported gen3 heads. These are the exact ones:
 
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The car has not overheated once since the install. This sadly is due to me being busy in life than the actual part doing its work on a running car. So no feedback on that unfortunately.

I am jogging my memory on this. IIRC it had single use plugs that needed to be pulled
I also still need to find a spot for the ground strap as I am unable to reach the stock location at this point. I will post here once I have figures it out.

I got ported gen3 heads. These are the exact ones:
Okay, thank you. I really would like to use my Head Oiling Mod, but it looks darn near impossible to pull those mini plugs. I was thinking they didn’t have threads because of the freeze plugs, whereas the Gen 2 heads have the Allen screw plugs.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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W2W Racing
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20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
M
Okay, thank you. I really would like to use my Head Oiling Mod, but it looks darn near impossible to pull those mini plugs. I was thinking they didn’t have threads because of the freeze plugs, whereas the Gen 2 heads have the Allen screw plugs.
My gen 2 has freeze plugs. The head cooling kit makes it impossible to replace the crank sensor with the motor in the car. Shaun says that mod is unnecessary. I still have mine installed but probably won’t keep it next time the motor comes out.
 
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My gen 2 has freeze plugs. The head cooling kit makes it impossible to replace the crank sensor with the motor in the car. Shaun says that mod is unnecessary. I still have mine installed but probably won’t keep it next time the motor comes out.
Yes, I discovered that out when I installed mine. I wish I had known that beforehand. It certainly would be a nightmare to change the sensor with the mod in place. I did order a new one with my rear seal plate kit, so hopefully it’ll last a very long time (fingers crossed).
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,588
8,261
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
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Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Yes, I discovered that out when I installed mine. I wish I had known that beforehand. It certainly would be a nightmare to change the sensor with the mod in place. I did order a new one with my rear seal plate kit, so hopefully it’ll last a very long time (fingers crossed).
Mines got the same one in it that came from the junkyard 2 motors ago. Be real nice if it didn't fail.
 
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good job on the install, the whole computer thing is a bit above me, if my 4.6 ever blows up in my 2006 GT, I have a set of mounts for a pushrod ford and an HEI.. simple works for me.
 
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218
369
Exp. Type
Time Attack
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5-10 Years
CA
@blacksheep-1 Compared to all the chassis wiring installing the race capture is a breeze. The new periferals are also pretty plug and play and a lot easier to deal with than the earlier versions.

Time for some updates since I started to work on it again and @NGOT8R woke this thread from its slumber.
Less fancy and interesting for now and just a bunch of wire routing and cleanup.

Both harnesses have been cleaned up, wrapped and stowed behind the dash. Needs one more test fit but this is pretty ready to go.
D8517472-993C-43D5-903D-E792A3106F16.jpeg
65F14BD9-E2E0-41E6-8600-8A2DD1BCF48E.jpeg
8FA3038A-6433-4D06-8621-1799D83C223A.jpeg


I decided I did not wanted to deal with the AC, its piping and setting it up so I removed it. Heater core is staying for class rules, so the HVAC blower is staying for now as well.
2CDDEEE5-AB7A-4FC2-B019-A4DA707610E3.jpeg

Carpet has been skinned and interior bits are finding their way back into the car. B-pillar gutting rules requires a full front interior.
A9A92423-5D36-4A84-A56F-C5379D708358.jpeg

Some heat shielding for the CJ. Does it do much? No Idea. Will it hurt? Unlikely.
C6A62344-FC71-41F1-A917-790EBD1CF4FD.jpeg

For good measures also added a lighter rear bumper support. I am still loving how the trunk lid supports turned out.
B543D413-C99D-4E04-A516-75A8C12EC52F.jpeg
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,588
8,261
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
@blacksheep-1 Compared to all the chassis wiring installing the race capture is a breeze. The new periferals are also pretty plug and play and a lot easier to deal with than the earlier versions.

Time for some updates since I started to work on it again and @NGOT8R woke this thread from its slumber.
Less fancy and interesting for now and just a bunch of wire routing and cleanup.

Both harnesses have been cleaned up, wrapped and stowed behind the dash. Needs one more test fit but this is pretty ready to go.
View attachment 82307
View attachment 82304
View attachment 82302


I decided I did not wanted to deal with the AC, its piping and setting it up so I removed it. Heater core is staying for class rules, so the HVAC blower is staying for now as well.
View attachment 82303

Carpet has been skinned and interior bits are finding their way back into the car. B-pillar gutting rules requires a full front interior.
View attachment 82308

Some heat shielding for the CJ. Does it do much? No Idea. Will it hurt? Unlikely.
View attachment 82305

For good measures also added a lighter rear bumper support. I am still loving how the trunk lid supports turned out.
View attachment 82306

View attachment 82306


JDM Engineering did dyno testing on that CJ Intake shielding and found no gains unfortunately.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,588
8,261
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
54
44
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Under 3 Years
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Very nice work! I like the extra added touch of labeling the connectors. It’ll definitely make troubleshooting things much easier if an ugly gremlin decides to rear it’s ugly head.
 
Okay, thank you. I really would like to use my Head Oiling Mod, but it looks darn near impossible to pull those mini plugs. I was thinking they didn’t have threads because of the freeze plugs, whereas the Gen 2 heads have the Allen screw plugs.
The ports using the mini plugs are also undersize, so to properly tap them for a 1/4" plug would require them to be drilled out.
 

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