The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

S197 Badger - 2011 S197 Gen3 Swap Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
1,843
1,476
Phoenix, Az
they often are slightly undersized out of the box, and if you don't measure the clearance carefully (I did and thought I was ok) they can snap the snout off a crankshaft. In their directions they specify the interference and recommend a machine shop honing to ensure the match - often many people just throw them on and go.

IMG_0882.JPGIMG_0883.JPGIMG_0889.JPGIMG_0967.JPGIMG_1241.JPGIMG_1254.JPGIMG_1255.JPG
 
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
they often are slightly undersized out of the box, and if you don't measure the clearance carefully (I did and thought I was ok) they can snap the snout off a crankshaft. In their directions they specify the interference and recommend a machine shop honing to ensure the match - often many people just throw them on and go.

View attachment 72571View attachment 72572View attachment 72573View attachment 72574View attachment 72575View attachment 72576View attachment 72577
Oh wow, brutal. That does not look good. I installed mine twice and did not see any markings on mine after I pulled it off the first time.

I keep hearing conflicting information about honing the hub. Some recommend it but the manuals states this:
For Dampers with Aluminum Hubs All dampers with aluminum hubs have a .002” press fit between the crank and the hub. DO NOT ALTER the press fit of the hub in any way! The press fit on the aluminum hub is slightly tighter to compensate for the elasticity of the aluminum.
 
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Not sure how engine dynos work, but apparently they do not require a pilot bearing. That made for an interesting last minute scavenger hunt.

Fresh Pilot bearing, my old lightened flywheel and ARP bolts:
DE344AC3-27AB-424B-8CB0-D4665D71084D.jpeg

Exedy hyper single mounted again:
594EE80C-CB78-4919-A984-9169DA8E9A52.jpeg

Having the long block out also allowed for the rare occasion the actually torque the headers accurately with a torque wrench
45C25DC6-91FA-4509-87DB-40818D6521D3.jpeg

Bench bled the throwout bearing for good measure and attached the trans:
11C5B740-E2D3-4D05-9D87-057755C09093.jpeg
 
Last edited:
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Since the CJ is down and for the time being I thought I'd throw the ported 18 on while keeping the IRMC intact since my ECU actually utilizes them now.
Well, turns out the s197 engine bay is not suited to house the IRMC at the back of the intake. They straight up hit the fire wall. I am sure it can be done, but it would require some elbow grease. So I´ll be using a stock 2018 with lockouts for now until the CJ is back.
8FCC9ED7-B78E-4ABB-A81C-086FDFD3386C.jpeg


Next one. Return style fuel system:
The return line as well as the extra lines from the surge tank will introduce more heat to the system. I´ll be placing a fuel temp sender at the surge to keep an eye on the temps while keeping fuel failure sources out of the engine bay. Thermal wrap is inbound to keep the temps under control. Are fuel coolers worth anything?
IMG_6445.jpeg
 
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
For the ones interested, I found out that the Control Pack comes equipped with wires for the EPAS. Which is pretty neat since this has been a headache for some here.
IMG_6513.jpeg

That aside I am still hooking up all the hoses and wires:
IMG_6510.jpeg

Painless panels are awesome and super easy to work with. A little heavy on the wires but a big time saver.
IMG_6472.jpeg

Fuel delivery is coming together as well:
IMG_6490.jpeg
 
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Wiring whose. The starter is not responding to the starter request.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the gen3 control pack harness? We tried using the 2018 diagram but the wire colors are different and something is not quite lining up.
Then there is also the "no start condition" of the control packs. Is there any more info about this? What exactly does it do to avoid a start and how can I check if the ECU is in a "no start condition"?

That aside I managed to get power into the harness and get the OBD2 to read some codes. Sounds like a small step, but I am super happy about this milestone.
Starter also fires up if shorted correctly. So I am getting close.
IMG_6639.jpegIMG_6603.jpeg

Cleaned out a bunch of stuff and harvested battery wires from the old harness.
IMG_6598.jpeg

Hooked up and set up the AnalogX, the fuel pressure sender and fuel temp sender from the surge tank.
IMG_6659.jpeg

Finally got to fill the block and the FP350S pan with oil!
15quarts, it took 15quarts to get the oil to level. No oil cooler hooked up yet. It is just the block and the pan. That thing is massive!
IMG_6584.jpeg

Since there is oil in the block now I finally got the chance to install the AC belt as well. Cause racecar.
IMG_6589.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Wiring whose. The starter is not responding to the starter request.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the gen3 control pack harness? We tried using the 2018 diagram but the wire colors are different and something is not quite lining up.
Then there is also the "no start condition" of the control packs. Is there any more info about this? What exactly does it do to avoid a start and how can I check if the ECU is in a "no start condition"?
Is the incoming wire to the start and ignition switch hot at all times (HAAT)?
As far as I know, the "no start condition" is not actually a condition of the control pack. It's simply that when the computer is used in a 2018+ mustang, the car wont start.
Edit: does the control pack require the clutch pedal switch to be connected? You can start the car without going through the clutch switch, but you don't use the start sense wire of the control pack. You run a wire directly from the start switch to the starter solenoid.
 
Last edited:
Is the incoming wire to the start and ignition switch hot at all times (HAAT)?
As far as I know, the "no start condition" is not actually a condition of the control pack. It's simply that when the computer is used in a 2018+ mustang, the car wont start.
Edit: does the control pack require the clutch pedal switch to be connected? You can start the car without going through the clutch switch, but you don't use the start sense wire of the control pack. You run a wire directly from the start switch to the starter solenoid.

Yes from reviewing the install manual from the control pack a clutch interlock switch is necessary.

Wiring whose. The starter is not responding to the starter request.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the gen3 control pack harness? We tried using the 2018 diagram but the wire colors are different and something is not quite lining up.
Then there is also the "no start condition" of the control packs. Is there any more info about this? What exactly does it do to avoid a start and how can I check if the ECU is in a "no start condition"?

That aside I managed to get power into the harness and get the OBD2 to read some codes. Sounds like a small step, but I am super happy about this milestone.
Starter also fires up if shorted correctly. So I am getting close.
View attachment 72794View attachment 72798

Cleaned out a bunch of stuff and harvested battery wires from the old harness.
View attachment 72795

Hooked up and set up the AnalogX, the fuel pressure sender and fuel temp sender from the surge tank.
View attachment 72793

Finally got to fill the block and the FP350S pan with oil!
15quarts, it took 15quarts to get the oil to level. No oil cooler hooked up yet. It is just the block and the pan. That thing is massive!
View attachment 72799

Since there is oil in the block now I finally got the chance to install the AC belt as well. Cause racecar.
View attachment 72796


The control pack ecu’s don’t have any anti theft programming so I don’t believe the control pack has any sort of no start/PATS/immobilizer abilities. So unless you’re getting a DTC that indicates the starting sequence is being interrupted I’d wager the starting circuit is just not wired up correctly.

When you jump the starter does the engine catch and run? Or is it not fully plumbed yet?
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
587
825
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
Last edited:
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Dummy me was not aware of the clutch switch being required. I am wiring in the fuel system right now to eliminate any other factors and will give it another shot asap.

That aside, ported CJ is in. But fixing the broken tab will require some work.
Fords airbox is quite nice and way better side sealing than other ones I´ve seen. Still needs a lid to work better with the Tiger Racing hood. The velocity stack is also rather heavy though.
27314087-650D-4EB6-9C23-5D4F185666DA.jpeg

Y-splitter for the TB wiring is inbound.
88D896A6-BCD0-4AEA-9EA7-BC77E27841D5.jpeg

Broken tab sponsored by fedex:
IMG_6734.jpeg

Got the wing supports welded onto the trunk. Trunk flex and cracked tail lights be gone! Needs a little paint, but this came out nice.
57F0B428-FFFA-4363-8DD2-DAAB08903535.jpeg

Relocating the water tank to the rear of the engine bay. Moving weight inwards and making some space for cooling and ducting.
86D5CA8E-A439-49C2-AD87-7416275E48F5.jpeg
 
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
The fuel system and surge tank are finally working. All leaks have been fixed and the fuel pressure is steady. Having fuel PSI in Racecapture made for a fantastic debugging tool.
ECU is still in no-start condition even with the clutch engaged. Will take some more poking around to get this going.
ED0C85A1-AF7A-4D9B-93E5-5BFE2E6C32EC.jpeg

VMP Y-harness is in and the CJ TB is working.
7015BCD7-ED63-4C8A-9495-FE81D2163D94.png

Added a temp sender port to the water outlet, but was informed there might be away to mount the sender directly to the heads. Gonna have to look into that.
8D8B4B8F-1658-48A5-B782-8AF8A9BEBDD0.jpeg
 
Last edited:
The fuel system and surge tank are finally working. All leaks have been fixed and the fuel pressure is steady. Having fuel PSI in Racecapture made for a fantastic debugging tool.
ECU is still in no-start condition even with the clutch engaged. Will take some more poking around to get this going.

Added a temp sender port to the water outlet, but was informed there might be away to mount the sender directly to the heads. Gonna have to look into that.
The only way to get the sensor up by the head is to drill/tap into the water outlet elbow on DS head. There are no ports in either head into the water passages.
Is the circled wire still connected to that stud? If it is, it should go to the stud indicated by the arrow.

88D896A6-BCD0-4AEA-9EA7-BC77E27841D5_LI.jpg
 
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
The only way to get the sensor up by the head is to drill/tap into the water outlet elbow on DS head. There are no ports in either head into the water passages.
Is the circled wire still connected to that stud? If it is, it should go to the stud indicated by the arrow.

View attachment 73115

Thanks, that is good info! Sounds like the passage that was mentioned to me was based on 4.6 / older modular motors. I will keep things as they are. Not looking to open a can of worms for little gains right now.

I will move the ground over. Came with the engine like that and have not touched any of the engine harness so far.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top