Those aren't stock plugs.View attachment 72509Nice progress!
For the oil balancing line I suppose the heads had been tapped for them previously? My understanding is that Gen3 heads are not tapped there ala earlier coyotes.
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Those aren't stock plugs.View attachment 72509Nice progress!
For the oil balancing line I suppose the heads had been tapped for them previously? My understanding is that Gen3 heads are not tapped there ala earlier coyotes.
Why not? ATI is a good piece.I'm not a huge fan of those ATI balancers - did you carefully measure the interference for the press fit? I might have missed it in earlier posts. Looking great
Oh wow, brutal. That does not look good. I installed mine twice and did not see any markings on mine after I pulled it off the first time.they often are slightly undersized out of the box, and if you don't measure the clearance carefully (I did and thought I was ok) they can snap the snout off a crankshaft. In their directions they specify the interference and recommend a machine shop honing to ensure the match - often many people just throw them on and go.
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For Dampers with Aluminum Hubs All dampers with aluminum hubs have a .002” press fit between the crank and the hub. DO NOT ALTER the press fit of the hub in any way! The press fit on the aluminum hub is slightly tighter to compensate for the elasticity of the aluminum.
No way, still waiting for the radiator and tons of hookups to do. Looking to get the fuel system pressurized asap though.Very cool! Think you will get to fire it up tonight??
Is the incoming wire to the start and ignition switch hot at all times (HAAT)?Wiring whose. The starter is not responding to the starter request.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the gen3 control pack harness? We tried using the 2018 diagram but the wire colors are different and something is not quite lining up.
Then there is also the "no start condition" of the control packs. Is there any more info about this? What exactly does it do to avoid a start and how can I check if the ECU is in a "no start condition"?
Is the incoming wire to the start and ignition switch hot at all times (HAAT)?
As far as I know, the "no start condition" is not actually a condition of the control pack. It's simply that when the computer is used in a 2018+ mustang, the car wont start.
Edit: does the control pack require the clutch pedal switch to be connected? You can start the car without going through the clutch switch, but you don't use the start sense wire of the control pack. You run a wire directly from the start switch to the starter solenoid.
Wiring whose. The starter is not responding to the starter request.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the gen3 control pack harness? We tried using the 2018 diagram but the wire colors are different and something is not quite lining up.
Then there is also the "no start condition" of the control packs. Is there any more info about this? What exactly does it do to avoid a start and how can I check if the ECU is in a "no start condition"?
That aside I managed to get power into the harness and get the OBD2 to read some codes. Sounds like a small step, but I am super happy about this milestone.
Starter also fires up if shorted correctly. So I am getting close.
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Cleaned out a bunch of stuff and harvested battery wires from the old harness.
View attachment 72795
Hooked up and set up the AnalogX, the fuel pressure sender and fuel temp sender from the surge tank.
View attachment 72793
Finally got to fill the block and the FP350S pan with oil!
15quarts, it took 15quarts to get the oil to level. No oil cooler hooked up yet. It is just the block and the pan. That thing is massive!
View attachment 72799
Since there is oil in the block now I finally got the chance to install the AC belt as well. Cause racecar.
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The only way to get the sensor up by the head is to drill/tap into the water outlet elbow on DS head. There are no ports in either head into the water passages.The fuel system and surge tank are finally working. All leaks have been fixed and the fuel pressure is steady. Having fuel PSI in Racecapture made for a fantastic debugging tool.
ECU is still in no-start condition even with the clutch engaged. Will take some more poking around to get this going.
Added a temp sender port to the water outlet, but was informed there might be away to mount the sender directly to the heads. Gonna have to look into that.
The only way to get the sensor up by the head is to drill/tap into the water outlet elbow on DS head. There are no ports in either head into the water passages.
Is the circled wire still connected to that stud? If it is, it should go to the stud indicated by the arrow.
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