cloud9 said:Mechanic's diagnosis was excessive heat from the rear brakes. I wonder how we get a diff cooler group buy going
Or make some sort of brake cooling ductwork.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
cloud9 said:Mechanic's diagnosis was excessive heat from the rear brakes. I wonder how we get a diff cooler group buy going
Sounds like your next project Mike?06mach1 said:Or make some sort of brake cooling ductwork.
cloud9 said:I wonder if there's a way to get this to work with my Whiteline Watts link diff cover??
http://rehagenracingproducts.com/REHAGEN-RACING-S197-MUSTANG-DIFFERENTIAL-COOLER-STANDARD-KIT-RR05DCSTD.htm
Thanks I'll have to think about doing this. Why is everything a thousand dollars?JScheier said:Looks like it will work as the WL cover has fill / drain plugs in the same location as the photo in Rehagen's photo. Worst case scenario is you need a different fitting due to different thread sizes. You could always pull the rear differential and drill / tap the pumpkin for fittings as well. Harder, but will still work.
cloud9 said:Why is everything a thousand dollars?
06mach1 said:Or make some sort of brake cooling ductwork.
Because everything on P cars starts at two thousand!cloud9 said:Thanks I'll have to think about doing this. Why is everything a thousand dollars?
Or even better in clear lexan.Cobra700 said:Been contemplating using this and routing to the rear brakes when the time comes. Think it'll look a lot better painted....
steveespo said:I spent $450 on my setup. Tilton Viton seal pump, Long Oil Cooler matrix bought on ebay from a NASCAR Nationwide team for $30, Aeroquip -8 hoses and fittings and some miscellaneous screws, clips, tie wraps and DEI heat protection hose wrap. I mounted the pump in the spare tire well, used bulkhead fittings to get the supply and return hoses to the pump, mounted the matrix under the passenger seat depression and used the GT500 diff cover with tappings to bring the fluid i and out. Also have a temp gauge mounted on the rear roll cage and a console switch to turn the pump on and off.
This would all be so easy if you lived in the middle of the countrysteveespo said:I spent $450 on my setup. Tilton Viton seal pump, Long Oil Cooler matrix bought on ebay from a NASCAR Nationwide team for $30, Aeroquip -8 hoses and fittings and some miscellaneous screws, clips, tie wraps and DEI heat protection hose wrap. I mounted the pump in the spare tire well, used bulkhead fittings to get the supply and return hoses to the pump, mounted the matrix under the passenger seat depression and used the GT500 diff cover with tappings to bring the fluid i and out. Also have a temp gauge mounted on the rear roll cage and a console switch to turn the pump on and off.
WinterSucks said:Steve, and anyone else doing electrical installs, here are some terminals that are easy to use and not permanent unless you want them to be:
Wago 223-412 for the two conductor model and -413 for the 3 conductor.
They eliminate the need for tape, wrapping wires together, soldering, tape, crappy butt splices...blah blah blah. And the best part is you can use them for house wiring in junction boxes. Makes things really easy.
That sounds like mine too. Are you using the factory vent? Do you have an overflow canister?06mach1 said:Picked up mine today from the dealer. Unable to really tell why it leaked though. The seal did not look damaged from heat and rubber was still flexible. And oil level was correct (9/16" below fill hole) and vent was working properly. If nothing else, I still have warranty for a couple more years!
cloud9 said:That sounds like mine too. Are you using the factory vent? Do you have an overflow canister?