Boss 302 Track/Street Upgrade Path

[gleek48]

I recently picked up a 2012 Boss 302 with the hopes of having it used mainly for track duty (road course) and want to keep it street legal. After some other separate posts talking about wheels and tires, I decided to just get a few things done at the same time. Here is my current estimated checklist now for this winter project.

Here's what is on the list so far (welcome all opinions):

1) New 19 inch wheels and tires (likely 302S or Forgestar wheels) and Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 265/35-19 and 295/30-19
2) FRPP P Springs
3) Koni Yellow Shocks
4) New Wheel Studs (are these needed for track duty?)
5) Pagid RS29F and RS59R pads
6) Should I upgrade rotors to DBA 4000 1 piece slotted? Original rotors/pads have about 12k on them.
7) For combination street and track (mostly track) use, is a stainless brake line upgrade needed/recommended?
8) Change out all fluids (incl. Brake Fluid)
9) Brake duct cooling kit (either FRPP or Blowfish Racing)

A few other questions:
A) Do I need any other suspension mods (Panhard bar, etc.) to go along with this package - considering the street/track usage goal?
B) What else am I missing for this first phase of the project?

Thanks!

 

[cosm3os]

1) No reason not to do 18s which would be cheaper for tires and wheels (availability of tires may be an issue at 19, too)
2) I'll leave this to others to comment on their compatibility with Konis
3) Love em
4) Yes, and I'd change the studs and nuts annually
5) Whatever track duty pad (don't waste money on street/track pads) floats your boat
6) I don't see any reason to get anything other than "blanks" for the money
7) Yes, highly
8) Yup. I'll defer to experts, but I'd change oil every 3 weekends, trans and rear every season (or half season if you are going nuts), and brake fluid before every event.
9) Must have.

A) Do a panhard to get the rear back in line and stiffen up a bit. Sway bars and camber/caster plates too. I did all this a year ago and just waited for the holiday specials to hit and a la carted my set up.

B) How's the nut behind the wheel? I wouldn't do anything but fluids if you aren't an intermediate/advanced driver yet.

 

[gleek48]

1) No reason not to do 18s which would be cheaper for tires and wheels (availability of tires may be an issue at 19, too)
2) I'll leave this to others to comment on their compatibility with Konis
3) Love em
4) Yes, and I'd change the studs and nuts annually
5) Whatever track duty pad (don't waste money on street/track pads) floats your boat
6) I don't see any reason to get anything other than "blanks" for the money
7) Yes, highly
8) Yup. I'll defer to experts, but I'd change oil every 3 weekends, trans and rear every season (or half season if you are going nuts), and brake fluid before every event.
9) Must have.

A) Do a panhard to get the rear back in line and stiffen up a bit. Sway bars and camber/caster plates too. I did all this a year ago and just waited for the holiday specials to hit and a la carted my set up.

B) How's the nut behind the wheel? I wouldn't do anything but fluids if you aren't an intermediate/advanced driver yet.

Thanks!

I think I got it all, but do not understand #6 about the brake rotors? Does this comment mean that you recommend using stock replacement rotors?

 

[byronj]

If you haven't already installed these I would also go with:

MGW shifter
Front splitter
Tow hooks
Pan hard bar
As stated 18 inch track duty rims.

 

[cosm3os]

Thanks!

I think I got it all, but do not understand #6 about the brake rotors? Does this comment mean that you recommend using stock replacement rotors?

Yup, or equivalent.

 

[fuhrius]

how about safety equipment? it's the first place you should be investing. Brakes count in safety equipment but aren't all you need.
the second upgrade is driver skill (a al professional schools / coaching).

 

[gleek48]

how about safety equipment? it's the first place you should be investing. Brakes count in safety equipment but aren't all you need.
the second upgrade is driver skill (a al professional schools / coaching).

Great point. I have been participating in HPDE's (off and on) for 4 years and want to get a coach next spring.

I briefly looked at a roll bar and harnesses, but don't know if I want to go that far yet. What items for the safety side would be everyone's recommendations for DE/Open Lapping?

 

[steveespo]

Great point. I have been participating in HPDE's (off and on) for 4 years and want to get a coach next spring.

I briefly looked at a roll bar and harnesses, but don't know if I want to go that far yet. What items for the safety side would be everyone's recommendations for DE/Open Lapping?

Roll bar and harnesses.

 

[cosm3os]

Roll bar and harnesses.

+1. Don't do harnesses without a proper rollbar.

 

[Grant 302]

I'd add relocation brackets since you're lowering with the P springs.

Use a DOT4 brake fluid if you weren't planning on it (sounds like you were).

I've only bought dba rotors on sale...but don't expect better performance that blanks. I think KNS has some on sale now.

Not required, but many of us use titanium shims in the front brakes from Hardbrakes. I think KNS carries them too.

I recommend a CG lock since you're using the OEM 3 point belt.

Adj. panhard...not required if the rear axle shift from lowering won't bother you.

Tow hooks...because when you don't have them is when you need them.

CC plates...Super sports seem to like a lot of camber...and fairly high pressures IMO.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Don't forget the transmission scoop. When the clutch starts acting up, and it will, you'll want to replace it with a quality aftermarket clutch not the OEM one.

 

[13Boss#3328]

Gleek, congratulations for the new ride!

I assume you have not taken your Boss to the track yet?

if not, I recommend you do first and see how it feels.

As others already suggested, I will list what I think are the essentials before going to your first track day with the Boss:

1) Change all fluids ( DOT 4 brake fluid, engine oil, diff and transmission)

2) Good track pads, a lot of options and opinions out there. they are generally good and fall in the same ballpark.

3) OEM style rotors (blank) will do great.

4) Brake cooling ducts.

5) Transmission cooling scoop.

6) Tires and wheels for the track: not necessarily A MUST for the first track day, but a good practice.
18 inch wheels is a wise route due to more tire options and generally less money. examples like ( SVE drifts 18X10 or FORD SVT 18X9.5) are good cost effective start.

7) Michelin PSS is a great tire, quite honestly more street than track though.
Based on your OP, you hope to use the car mainly for track duty, so I think going with something like extreme summer performance tires is a better approach. Examples are ( Bfgoodrich Rivals, Potenza RE-11, Dunlop Zii, Neova Advan AD08R, Hankook RS3...etc)

8) I recommend camber/caster plate so you can reduce the tire wear happens from hard cornering.

Other than what mentioned above, you will just need one thing, DRIVE the car.

I will not comment on springs, dampers, pan hard bar...etc as I believe you will need to test the car first, may be up to 4 days on the track and see how it feels. They pitch, they roll, they dive, they wiggle, they lift on high speed and they get passed by Miatas and civics all day long, but once you focus on looking ahead and being smooth they shine.

if you decide to go with square setup, I think going with smaller rear sway bar is a cost-effective method to counteract the tendency to oversteer.

good luck!

Rabee

 

[gleek48]

Thanks everyone for the very constructive feedback. A lot to ponder and consider.

If I go with 18 inch wheels and want to start out with a staggered setup with a slightly lowered car (P Springs), what tire size options would work with the 18x9.5 or 18x10 FRPP wheels without having to modify or cut anything?

 

[twistedneck]

Race seats nothing too expensive. I am a noob also and this is something I've been told was a must. Don't just do a harness bar, get a real cage welded in... its about $1200-$1500 bucks to get a decent 5pt custom cage put in if you pull the back seats and trim out yourself. That way you have a real cage that makes the car stiffer and a nice platform for the future.

 

[Grant 302]

Thanks everyone for the very constructive feedback. A lot to ponder and consider.

If I go with 18 inch wheels and want to start out with a staggered setup with a slightly lowered car (P Springs), what tire size options would work with the 18x9.5 or 18x10 FRPP wheels without having to modify or cut anything?

You could start with the rims square and fit staggered tires on for now. For example, starting with 18x10s you could run 275s up front and 295s in the rear. With 9.5" wide, I'd probably go 265 and 285.

 

[johna]

Talking of tires, I have a laguna seca with the staggered stance...but its time to replace my tires too...whats the best set up for track and street with the stock LS rims?

 

[gleek48]

You could start with the rims square and fit staggered tires on for now. For example, starting with 18x10s you could run 275s up front and 295s in the rear. With 9.5" wide, I'd probably go 265 and 285.

Would you go with 275/40-18 and 295/35-18's for the 10 inch wide rims? Would this be pretty neutral with a stockish suspension (at first)?

Would this need any modifications to the body or suspension?

 

[VoodooBoss]

Talking of tires, I have a laguna seca with the staggered stance...but its time to replace my tires too...whats the best set up for track and street with the stock LS rims?

Yokohama AD08R's or Michelin PSS in 265/35/19 and 295/30/19 tires on stock suspension. The Yokohama is probably the better track tire by a couple of hairs but if you drive at all in the rain get the Michelin's.

 

[johna]

Yep, stock suspension, thanks for the help, I appreciate it!

 

[Grant 302]

Would you go with 275/40-18 and 295/35-18's for the 10 inch wide rims? Would this be pretty neutral with a stockish suspension (at first)?

Would this need any modifications to the body or suspension?

I'd probably go lower profile 275/35 and 295/30, but either should work without other mods as long as the rims are about +42 or +43 offset. I'd expect it to remain neutral, but just a nudge in the understeer direction.

Pretty sure 295s aren't available in 18" for the Super Sports...if that's the tire you're still considering.