Boss Brake Cooling Kit Installation Tips

Here's a thread for posting tips on installing the brake cooling kit. Below is a link to a thread that has tips and info but it's not specific to this topic hence the new thread. I'll be installing the kit this weekend so if you have any tips please post and I'll post anything I learn.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/boss-302-general-forum/who-will-be-the-first-to-post-pics-of-their-boss-on-bossmustangsonline/30/

From reading that thread and other comments I decided that I wanted to modify my backing plates for easier hose installation. I had eight slots cut as suggested by Scott and others and then pressed together. While still a bit tight it should be much easier to install the hoses going forward. I have a hack saw but no power saw to make the cuts so I took them to a local shop that made the cuts for me. Here are the photos.

 

[1TRKMND]

Hey Rick, did you receive the fog light inserts with your kit?

 

[VoodooBoss]

They did not come with the kit but I called Ford Racing tech support and they sent them to me. They arrived today. Not sure why they don't come with the kit. The part numbers are:

BR32 17E810 AA
BR32 17E811 AA

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Thanks Rick but that was not me that thought of the cutting. In fact I only did one side. I ended up pulling the wire out like a coil from the top, not piece by piece and it fit over the side I did not cut. On the side I did cut it chewed up the hose so make sure you file them smooth before installing the tube.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Yet the shop that did the cutting for me used a grinder to smooth everything out. No sharp edges on mine.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I finished it up today. Here's some photos and a few different things I did. My thought was to make modifications to decrease the chance of damage to the hoses and to make replacing them easy in the future. Others have created these tips but here they are in one place.

As previously posted I had my backing plates cut and bent in to facilitate installation. They went on easy but snug.


I completely cut out the fog lamp mounts. They are of no use to me and made installation quick and easy.



I removed the horn mount and turned it 180 degrees. This moved the horns up about 1" and kept them off of the hoses.




For the washer bottle I added 1/4" spacers to the mount. While it didn't do much it was enough to take pressure off of the hose.






Don't forget to remove the vertical pieces. I used my Dremel on this.


Scuff up the valance openings so the hoses attach securely. I used a sanding bit on my Dremel to rough them up.


On the drivers side there is a cover under the engine and it hits the hose. I removed a blunt corner and sanded it smooth. Before and after.



And a couple more.



Kit installed and ready for the track.

 

[ORANGE CRUSH]

Thanks 5DOT0 for the info and pics! This helped out a lot and saved me a lot of time, mainly on the backing plates and horns. Thanks!

 

[ChuckP]

Great tips on the cooling kit install! I did mine pretty much the same...trimmed the opening on passenger side, slotted and compressed air intakes on backing plates etc. However, I have the ultimate tip on installing this kit. If you choose to tape the area where the tire comes close and you think it may potentially rub, at least use color coordinated tape...looks SO much better than the gray stuff...lol!

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

For getting the hoses onto the spindle ducts, no need to cut. Just spray the inside of the hose with WD-40, then press the hose on in a "screwing" motion corresponding to the wire/string direction in the hose itself. Takes 5min per hose.

For getting the hoses clamped to the foglight duct, if you don't feel like scuffing the duct, you can use gaffer tape or duct tape on the duct exterior to create grip for the hose and hose clamp.

 

[Grant 302]

Thanks everyone for posting their tips! I opted to cut coils to get the hoses on the backing plates. Rotated the horn bracket, but kept the horns facing down to prevent collecting water. I trimmed most of the same places that Rick did, but I didn't remove much from the fender liners. I didn't cut any of the length of hose so that the inlets can be done last and popped into the facia, and the hose would be compressed.

Passenger side mock-up:


Driver's side duct mock-up:

Hacked off fog light mounts:


After driving thru a parking lot to check for contact lock to lock...I liked the tape idea:


Driver's side duct:

Passenger side duct inlet:

 

[VoodooBoss]

I need to buy some orange duct tape. In the photo below you'll see the metal clip at the end of the tie-rod boot (or whatever it is). My hose is rubbing there and a hole will develop soon. I'm not having any tire rubbing so far.

 

[fduboss302]

Gonna order the 2013 brake ducting from Tousley and will install within the next 2 to 3 weeks. Will keep you guys posted with pics.

 

[Grant 302]

I need to buy some orange duct tape. In the photo below you'll see the metal clip at the end of the tie-rod boot (or whatever it is). My hose is rubbing there and a hole will develop soon. I'm not having any tire rubbing so far.

I only found fluorescent orange tape at Ace...good enough for me. Thanks for the tip about the clip. I covered that area too.

 

[Sesshomurai]

I was thinking of doing this install, but wondered about debris getting into the hose and onto the rotor.

Has anyone experienced that?

I will probably put a sturdy meshing at the entry point to keep larger objects from bumbling up the hose (if that's even remotely possible).

 

[VoodooBoss]

This will solve your concern. I use these during the winter. The parts are from Home Depot.

 

[06mach1]

A 1 1/2" PVC black rubber pipe cap works also. You can buy them also at Home Depot and Lowes. They are the rubber cap that comes with a hose clamp. Just stuff the cap in the hole (without the clamp on!)

 

[Sesshomurai]

Those caps are mainly for when not in use? I was thinking something should be over the opening while on the track to keep tiny objects from entering, so I thought a mesh of some sort. Maybe I'm overthinking it? I would think heavy dust and sand entering in there would be bad for the brakes?

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Those caps are mainly for when not in use? I was thinking something should be over the opening while on the track to keep tiny objects from entering, so I thought a mesh of some sort. Maybe I'm overthinking it? I would think heavy dust and sand entering in there would be bad for the brakes?

The sand will just turn to glass, lol. I see no need to cover them at the track, race teams do not and many us run this FR setup without any problems.

A 1 1/2" PVC black rubber pipe cap works also. You can buy them also at Home Depot and Lowes. They are the rubber cap that comes with a hose clamp. Just stuff the cap in the hole (without the clamp on!)

I did the same, they stay in fine when not on track.

 

[Cjmclean31]

I'm having issues with the driver side rubbing at full lock. I did shorten the hose maybe 4" or so so I'm afraid I might have made it too short. However with the wheel on, I slid under the car and I just don't see how there is room for the hose to avoid the tire??

THe passenger side is fine.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I'm having issues with the driver side rubbing at full lock. I did shorten the hose maybe 4" or so so I'm afraid I might have made it too short. However with the wheel on, I slid under the car and I just don't see how there is room for the hose to avoid the tire??

THe passenger side is fine.

I'm not having any issues with rubbing and I'm using the stock length. It's close but no rubbing. You may have cut the hose too short. Is yours mounted similar to mine? Note mine is hanging below the painted metal piece where I have a zip tie. I put a piece of duct tape on the end of the metal piece to help with any rubbing. You can try swapping hoses to see if that helps but it will probably be too shore for the passenger side.