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How are you track guys bleeding your brakes after changing fluid? I was told it has to be done at the dealer on the computer. Please tell me there is another way.
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Brake bleeding proceedure
- Thread starter1-1-12
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cloud9
Gary
All you need is a 7/16" closed end wrench, someone to pump the brake pedal and a catch bottle like this:1-1-12 said:
http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Pair-of-Power-Bleeder-Catch-Bottle-1820_p_127.html
Have the person in the car pump up the brake pedal and hold pressure, attach the catch bottle over the nipple with the wrench around the bleeder screw, then open slowly. Have them let you know when the pedal's down and close it quickly before they lift their foot. Rinse and repeat as necessary until you get fresh looking fluid
Make sure you periodically check the reservoir and add fluid so it doesn't drop too low where it would suck air into the system.Some people will use the Motive Power Bleeder also at the website I linked so you can do it yourself without two people.
The torque specs are 159 in/lbs for the front bleeder and 89 in/lbs for the rear.
I have the motive power bleeder, used it on my Evo and E30 track cars since sometimes you need to do it by yourself. Great product. Only issue was the coupler they install between the bottle and the adapter leaks, you need to add some teflon. For the catch bottles, you can use old water bottles and poke a hole in the top and run a piece of the clear tubing from the hardware store.
The dealer thing, if it is like my other cars, you need to hook it up to the computer to have the car open the ABS circuit so you can bleed the fluid in there. Otherwise that fluid stays in there, and if the ABS activates then it mixes with the clean fluid. What I do, is the last run of the event I will purposely activate the ABS by braking really hard when it is safe and let the fluid mix. Then, before the next event, I always bleed the brakes again and get rid of the little bit of mixed fluid. Not perfect, but it does get some of the old fluid out each time.
In theory, you should bleed the fluid before every track event and do a flush based on the fluid you use (ATE super blue I did once a year, but higher end fluids usually are supposed to be done more frequently).
The normal procedure with most cars is to start with the bleeder furthest from the reservoir and work your way in (so usually the passenger side rear outer nipple then inner, then driver rear outer then inner, then passenger front outer then inner, then driver outer then inner) but I have not confirmed yet that it is the same on the Boss. Does anyone know if that is the right order for this car?
If any of this is wrong for the Boss I'll edit it out so it doesn't confuse people, but that has been how it worked with all my other cars.
The dealer thing, if it is like my other cars, you need to hook it up to the computer to have the car open the ABS circuit so you can bleed the fluid in there. Otherwise that fluid stays in there, and if the ABS activates then it mixes with the clean fluid. What I do, is the last run of the event I will purposely activate the ABS by braking really hard when it is safe and let the fluid mix. Then, before the next event, I always bleed the brakes again and get rid of the little bit of mixed fluid. Not perfect, but it does get some of the old fluid out each time.
In theory, you should bleed the fluid before every track event and do a flush based on the fluid you use (ATE super blue I did once a year, but higher end fluids usually are supposed to be done more frequently).
The normal procedure with most cars is to start with the bleeder furthest from the reservoir and work your way in (so usually the passenger side rear outer nipple then inner, then driver rear outer then inner, then passenger front outer then inner, then driver outer then inner) but I have not confirmed yet that it is the same on the Boss. Does anyone know if that is the right order for this car?
If any of this is wrong for the Boss I'll edit it out so it doesn't confuse people, but that has been how it worked with all my other cars.
cloud9
Gary
That's the correct order except the rears only have a single bleeder screw.
1-1-12 said:
Who told you that, the dealer ? If so, beware of that place. Dealers are known to overestimate work to try to have you not try it yourself. That however, it a BIG exaggeration of what a dealer should be allowed to repair/replace. This process is just about as simple as changing your oil (as the guys very accurately described above).
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Thank you for all the help. I was told by my dealer that the only way to properly bleed the brakes after changing the fluid was while hooked up to the computer.
This is a dealer that I work with and will do this at no cost. I just bring in my brake fluid.
This is a dealer that I work with and will do this at no cost. I just bring in my brake fluid.
your dealer may have been talking about swapping fluid with the ability to cycle the abs to remove all the old stuff. my understanding is that needs the dealer computer system. i second the motive speed bleeder, easiest brake bleeding ever. slurp all the old fluid from the res, fill with new stuff and you can get most of the old fluid out.
ShaneM said:
That is probably what they are talking about. This can be done by a lot of aftermarket shops though. The newer Snap-on scan tools have this ability.
BossJockey
Jeff
Anybody ever use these speed bleeder? How do they work?
http://www.cjponyparts.com/disc-brake-speed-bleeders-10mm--1+0-thread---35mm-long-pair-1996-2012/p/HW2624/
http://www.cjponyparts.com/disc-brake-speed-bleeders-10mm--1+0-thread---35mm-long-pair-1996-2012/p/HW2624/
BossJockey said:
Lots of people have them, I have put them on several cars. They work as intended but I always treat the last pump like it was a regular fitting (don't let up on the brake pedal until the fitting is closed).
Also, if memory serves correct the 35MM are for the rears and 33MM for the fronts (you need 3 pair total .. 1-35 2-33)
Russell Speed Bleeders.
Same as what was posted above.
A MUST.
Same as what was posted above.
A MUST.
CaliMR said:
3 prong.
CaliMR said:
i ordered this kit:
SKU 0118
PRODUCT Motive Products, Power Brake Bleeder, Mustang 2005+ - 0118
if that helps, it worked perfectly.
cloud9 said:All you need is a 7/16" closed end wrench, someone to pump the brake pedal and a catch bottle like this:1-1-12 said:
http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Pair-of-Power-Bleeder-Catch-Bottle-1820_p_127.html
Have the person in the car pump up the brake pedal and hold pressure, attach the catch bottle over the nipple with the wrench around the bleeder screw, then open slowly. Have them let you know when the pedal's down and close it quickly before they lift their foot. Rinse and repeat as necessary until you get fresh looking fluid
Some people will use the Motive Power Bleeder also at the website I linked so you can do it yourself without two people.
The torque specs are 159 in/lbs for the front bleeder and 89 in/lbs for the rear.
Gary, I read 159 in/lbs on the front...per
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=760&viewfile=SPECIFICATIONS.pdf
On that note what/where can I find a tq wrench that applies such miniscule tq amounts?
*edit: found some but they're all pretty pricy.
*edit: found some but they're all pretty pricy.
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