Captdistraction's ST2/GTR build thread Build Thread

[captdistraction]

I also can recommend Liberty Performance for any customization work. Mine has a bit done to it:



With the above work, MGW shifter, and Exedy clutch the shifts are simply incredible.

 

[Fabman]

I also can recommend Liberty Performance for any customization work. Mine has a bit done to it:

View attachment 1019

With the above work, MGW shifter, and Exedy clutch the shifts are simply incredible.

They are great shifting transmissions stock, it must be incredible with all the mods done to it.

 

[wwilde001]

I would also recommend Liberty Gears to purchase a transmission. They can do any work you want on the transmission before they ship it (swap out OD Clusters and what Chris had done to his), and it will come with the factory Tremec Warranty. I have it from reliable sources that many of the top race shops use Liberty exclusively for their transmission work.

 

[captdistraction]

Was able to pull the damper with a replacement tool. Will replace the seal but I don't think it was the issue. Either way needed it off to get the timing cover off


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[ls110]

Thanks for that recommendation on Liberty Performance. I tried a search and found Liberty Performance but it appears they sell components through dealers and I am not seeing anything regarding trannys. I also found Liberty's Gears, and they sell the Tremec and appear to do custom work. Both links below. Is either of these correct or is there a third site I did not see?

http://libertysgears.com/our-products/tremec/
http://www.libertyperformance.com/products.php

 

[wwilde001]

The first one is the correct site.

 

[captdistraction]

Pulling this guy back on track, I ordered all the parts for the refresh of the braking system and clutch systems (along with plugging that pesky oil leak).

Outside a possible bad pan, I hope that changing all the gaskets/seals out takes care of it.

I ordered a:

• BRMC-210 Master cylinder (common across all 11-14 stang variants apparently), surprised there wasn't piston size differences
• BRB-93 Power Booster (13-14 GT500 booster, 11-14 GT booster without Brembo brakes, 30% less area than my oem BRB-91 booster ) - hopefully improves feel, but will give me options
• 9R3Z-2K478-B New reservoir from an automatic car (to eliminate the nipple on the side since I have separate reservoirs)
• BR3Z-7A543-A New clutch master cylinder (I did not try the 13-14 GT500 DR3Z-7A543-A one that has a larger piston, as my release is already high, and a larger piston would only further accelerate the release on press)
• M-6600-A50PKIT - oil pump change kit (includes all gaskets/seals for front end, costs the same as just the oil windage tray).

I do need to get the fasteners for the clutch master cylinder, I believe the oem ones were lost during the build. Does anyone have access to what those parts would be or the specs of the bolts?

I'm somewhat at a loss on the oil leak and just taking stabs in the dark. Inspected the body of the damper, and the front crank seal sat right beneath a lip I assume was a stop for the seal and from the coating wear looks like it was doing its job. All the seals were brand new when I installed this motor, but whatever is good on the reusable seals will just get moved to spares. Oil is low and all over the motor so I'm hoping its one of the following scenarios:

1. least likely: timing cover sealing issue, from one of the outer gaskets (they appear dry, but the corner where silicone is applied could be a source)
2. the NPT plugs on the front and sides of pan. I originally had used thread sealing paste which didn't work whatsoever, and switched to tape, perhaps a better solution exists?
3. The oil pan gasket/windage tray: I really feel like something could be going on here. I very carefully installed it dry, and torqued it very carefully, however we did find one loose corner bolt. Perhaps I used bad/low specs? This would explain why I don't easily see a source
4. the oil level sender. Its taped, but the fit is more loose than I'd like, I may add an o-ring to it as well to help seal or remove it altogether.
5. the oil pan itself, there could be a flaw in the welding. I do at least want to look at the pan and inspect it off the car as I noticed in my data there were oil pressure drops to 40psi on hard right hand turns (which 35- 45 is where my accusump takes over). I'm not sure if it would drop more, but I want to check that left side trap door to make sure its seating ok

I did clean up the images on page 24 that relate to this and add captions.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Down to 40 is "normal" for hard braking combined with tight turns. Overlay your steering angle (or lateral acceleration) to see for sure.

 

[captdistraction]

Down to 40 is "normal" for hard braking combined with tight turns. Overlay your steering angle (or lateral acceleration) to see for sure.

I looked at it that way yesterday, it basically drops just after braking release and turn in has begun, carrying through until the apex and returns to normal as throttle is applied (as the above graphs show). Is that a design issue with the pan? being symmetric outside the pickup I wasn't sure. Either way I've got a couple safety nets and have to drop the pan to change the gasket anyways.

While I'm in there, anything else I should look at? I'll inspect the chains, cam bearing surface (pull a cap), probably pull plugs just to see, check rods for excessive clearance, etc. Hate that I have to rip it all apart just to replace gaskets, but this oil thing is a mess.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

My light goes off at 30psi. If you have accusump I'd not even worry about it. On most tracks the low PSI is around 65 but in some situations it's simply unavoidable that pressure drops into the 40s. With this pan setup and CJ pump I've only ever seen the pressure warning just for a moment at buttonwillow (data said high 20s) turning off the main straight (hard braking + banked turning); remedied that by improving my braking.

 

[captdistraction]

Apex was nice enough to feature the car/myself on their customer blog:


https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/chriss-2011-mustang-race-car-with-ec-7-track-wheels/

tomorrow the 18x11's arrive, and will get them on the car quickly for testing. I just need to rob a bank so I can get some 315 R7's to mess with. (photo courtesy of @ArizonaBOSS )

 

[Fabman]

Apex was nice enough to feature the car/myself on their customer blog:
View attachment 1087

https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/chriss-2011-mustang-race-car-with-ec-7-track-wheels/

tomorrow the 18x11's arrive, and will get them on the car quickly for testing. I just need to rob a bank so I can get some 315 R7's to mess with. (photo courtesy of @ArizonaBOSS )

Looks awesome!


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[VoodooBoss]

Very cool.

You need a new TMO sticker for your helmet!

 

[captdistraction]

those pics were of an old helmet, I've been on the Stilo $ train for some time:


That said, I probably should put a new TMO sticker on it, right now, the only thing on it is the "LeaveMeAlone" decal

 

[steeda5]

Im interested to see what u find on your oil leak. Im running the same pan. I think Drew's pan is aluminum though. 18x11 and 315's are gonna be sick on your RC.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

My pan is the steel one. Cheaper and if you puncture it, you can weld it trackside (not that I would recommend that )

 

[venom52]

Great article and great build thread.

 

[captdistraction]

I took the K-member out today to get at the oil leak problem. Found nothing conclusive. I added an image gallery at: http://imgur.com/a/di6Rw

That said, the thoughts I have on possible causes are this:

Gaskets: I’m replacing all the seals and gaskets/windage tray. Replacing the silicone sealer at all cover locations where the edges meet per service manual. Replace front main seal

Oil pan plugs: replace the plugs (and find a better sealing tape or option, or just weld them closed), find a suitable oil o-ring or plug for the oil level sensor that really isn’t used on this car.

The Pan itself: the mating surfaces were clean, no binding
however it looks like oil may have been creeping around the interface of the pan and windage tray. The pan’s welds aren’t world class, I’m curious if porosity would come into play

Anyone have thoughts? Experience with a leak like this that just flows all over the bottom of the car?

 

[Swiss Boss]

This is the sealant I use and so far it's been completely leak proof. I have the aluminum pan.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-QuickStix-Liquid-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0074NGPYQ

You can also test the welds by filling the pan with gasoline, let it sit for a day or 2 and see if the level dropped.

Good luck!

 

[captdistraction]

19 gallon stick, eh ?


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