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Clutch Bleeding: I'm a believer now

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drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Anyone else with a Mac able to see the online service manuals?
I can select from the menu of manuals on the left side, but when I click on it, it says "a plugin is needed to view this content". When I click to install, it says no suitable plugin available.
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
CaliMR said:
boss2511 said:
what is the cheapest tool to buy (that works) to do this vacuum bleeding?

I bought a MightyVac at the local auto parts store, it was like $40 because I got the nice kit (more adapters). You need a cap with a hose or a plug to put in there, I use the cap from my Motive power bleeder. I don't like the cap, it is metal (only metal offered for this car) and has been scratching the grooves on the MC.

Since you drag race, you might want to try it. When you suck out the old fluid after pumping, suck from the very top so the burned gunk in there gets sucked up. If you suck from below the surface, it floats and doesn't get picked up.
Cali. - can you confirm for us. Is this the Mighty Vac you own?
Thanks,
MMD

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_a.asp
 
I have this one, it works fine and is pretty cheap

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5952503102P?sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00947058000


The only issue is it does not come with the plug to replace the MC cap, but it looks like they sell one at your link. I had the Motive kit already for pressure bleeding, and the cap works for this.

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Black-Label-GMFord-3-Tab-Adapter-1118_p_105.html

I think there was a cheaper version but that one works well. Use the thick gasket, and push down pretty solid or it won't screw on. I like this one as it can be used for pressure bleeding as well, since it locks on. The plug type is only for vacuum as it just sits on there and vacuum holds it on.


The only issue with the Motive cap is that the tube is wider than the tube for the Mighty Vac, but the MV comes with an adapter that has a cone on one end and you just wedge that in the Motive tube to mate them.


You could also buy an oem cap and drill a hole then fit a tube to it, I don't know what type of glue or epoxy will not be bad for the brake fluid though.
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
CaliMR said:
I have this one, it works fine and is pretty cheap

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5952503102P?sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00947058000


The only issue is it does not come with the plug to replace the MC cap, but it looks like they sell one at your link. I had the Motive kit already for pressure bleeding, and the cap works for this.

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Black-Label-GMFord-3-Tab-Adapter-1118_p_105.html

I think there was a cheaper version but that one works well. Use the thick gasket, and push down pretty solid or it won't screw on. I like this one as it can be used for pressure bleeding as well, since it locks on. The plug type is only for vacuum as it just sits on there and vacuum holds it on.


The only issue with the Motive cap is that the tube is wider than the tube for the Mighty Vac, but the MV comes with an adapter that has a cone on one end and you just wedge that in the Motive tube to mate them.


You could also buy an oem cap and drill a hole then fit a tube to it, I don't know what type of glue or epoxy will not be bad for the brake fluid though.
Once again great info and thanks!

MMD
 
There is also plenty of us with driveways in the bay ;D

Clutch bleed is done completely under the hood. It is easy if you have the tools.
 
drano38 said:
Anyone else with a Mac able to see the online service manuals?
I can select from the menu of manuals on the left side, but when I click on it, it says "a plugin is needed to view this content". When I click to install, it says no suitable plugin available.

I hope you got this solved. I use Firefox with the PDF Browser Plugin...
 

ace72ace

Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
1,242
71
The plugin only works on the ancient 3.6.x version of FF. So if you auto-upgrade as Firefox constantly yammers on you do every single time there is an update, you lose the ability to view PDFs in a new tab. Yeah there are some security vulnerabilities, so I run 'no-script' that IMHO is the single best plugin/add on ever. No more scrolling/flash ads! No autoplay crap either... Sure it takes some time to learn what to block and what to allow, but I wouldn't surf the web w/o it.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
The previous mityvac link is dead, this seems to be the updated link here:

http://www.sears.com/mity-vac-automotive-tune-up-and-brake-bleeding/p-00947058000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
 
I should probably mention, my MC seems to have gone out because it is squirting fluid out and it sucks weird lint ball looking things up from the clutch line (it did that before I bled it too, but I thought it was just burned fluid and clutch dust as some of my vetter friends said they had that issue). So I don't think a little air in the line was the main problem, it was just a symptom. I'll update the main post when I find out what happened.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Thought I'd post my solution for not having a motive bleeder cap

Neoprene rubber washer:
7467676222_6bd6de0de3.jpg

Fender washer 1 1/2" dia and 5/16" hole on top of the rubber washer:
7467677052_0a1a3af42a.jpg

Setup in action with the mityvac included suction cup:
7467675410_522c1bd5ee.jpg
 
I had the JHR clutch line installed and bled earlier this week and was surprised that the clutch now feels lighter. Does the clutch feel lighter after bleeding and/or has anyone experienced a lighter feeling clutch after installing the JHR clutch line?
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
Mine felt lighter for the first 1" to 2" of travel when it was first installed. Depression to engage/disengage clutch felt the same.
 
Mine feels springier (not spongier!) I do like the feel with the JHR line installed. Regarding the install I had to take the bottom "L" that the bottom of the clutch line plugs in to. That install went less smoothly then I thought it would. Furthermore, they said pump the pedal 100X to get rid of the air, I'm pretty sure I pumped on the order of 175 some times. :eek:
 
I don't have the line, but I get a firmer pedal and much less grinding after bleeding. I have bled mine several times now, I do it as soon as it starts to grind, but I seem to have some issues with the system I'm trying to get Ford to fix.

I have a friend who TTs a new Mustang and races CMC in an older one, he is pretty experienced as well as his job has him doing a lot of automotive diagnosis work, and he says the location of the line in this car causes it to build up heat quickly on top of the heat from the clutch. He suggested for track days to pump the clutch 50 times between sessions to cycle the fluid and force out some of the bubbles. Having more fluid in the thicker line would probably help as it would take longer to heat up. But I have not tested it, but it is an idea.
 

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