coolers for road racing?

[osdr33mz]

Hey, I have a few questions if you can give me some advice. I think this is the most related thread to post this for. If I need to start a new one lmk.

I am relatively new to cars and I’ve been using my 6 speed auto 5.0 on a small track with no cooling issues. I want to set up my 10 speed 5.0 right this time though for longevity..

How important is it to box the oil/trans cooler? My plan for oil is the thermostat sandwich plate, and a setrab 960 in front of the stock radiator.

I have the PP1 and I’ve heard that the coolant radiator is larger, I’d like to know if engine cooling is a problems with just the oil cooler, and not messing with the coolant radiator.

for the transmission, my idea is a setrab 116 fan pack, but some sort of thermostat similar to the sandwich plate. While I want to have cooling, this is still having normal road miles as well.

if you’ve set up a baffled pan for your mustang, can you replace the pan without pulling the engine? Like taking out the k member?

if there are any other tips you can give please lmk.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

948 for oil seems to be enough for 95+% of people on here. Mine's on a thermostat but thermostats always allow bypass when closed so in reality it takes quite a bit of heat to get even up to operating temp on the street if thats a consideration for you. I rarely eclipse 160*f on the street with my 948 (and triple pass radiator).

 

[osdr33mz]

948 for oil seems to be enough for 95+% of people on here. Mine's on a thermostat but thermostats always allow bypass when closed so in reality it takes quite a bit of heat to get even up to operating temp on the street if thats a consideration for you. I rarely eclipse 160*f on the street with my 948 (and triple pass radiator).

Yeah I’m still going to use this for car day to day traffic. Would keeping the stock radiator allow the heat to get comfortable sooner? If so, is just the 948 upgrade enough for cooling the engine on track?

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Yeah I’m still going to use this for car day to day traffic. Would keeping the stock radiator allow the heat to get comfortable sooner? If so, is just the 948 upgrade enough for cooling the engine on track?

sorry not sure, haven’t run my 948 with a stock radiator.

 

[flyhalf]

10 speed has the thermostat inside the pan. Not outside. If you need a bypass I make one
Just cover the inlet of the trans cooler while driving around. (Unless you are in a 10f ambient where then i dont suggest the bypass )
In my 10speed i use a 650setrab. You NEED a big one. Series 1 is just too small. (What u have is bigger)
For engin oil. I use 660. Max temps are 250f. And..i push i think hard enough
Radiator i have mishimoto. Bigger than oem pp1. Also be sure to pair all with race louvers vents.
I believe oil and water should be optimized both. Cause they work together.
Boxing is the key. At least the radiator. Mine seems over complicated but in this way you have fresh air hitting everything (trans. Oil. Radiator)
235f is maximum trans temp you should have.
If you go more. You damage it.
My max temps are 190 now.
Upgrade the clutches too. At least.
Last. Tune is important. I work with Ken osborne of OZTUNING.
there are other things to be done. But this is the key to have the trans to work.

Here to help.
Alessandro

 

[Mad Hatter]

948 is great for the track but it will depend on how much power your putting out. If your motor is stock then you might not need it. Your 10spd will need a lot of cooling to give you more then 2 hot laps on track. The 6 speed auto was much more tolerant to heat.

 

[osdr33mz]

10 speed has the thermostat inside the pan. Not outside. If you need a bypass I make one
Just cover the inlet of the trans cooler while driving around. (Unless you are in a 10f ambient where then i dont suggest the bypass )
In my 10speed i use a 650setrab. You NEED a big one. Series 1 is just too small. (What u have is bigger)
For engin oil. I use 660. Max temps are 250f. And..i push i think hard enough
Radiator i have mishimoto. Bigger than oem pp1. Also be sure to pair all with race louvers vents.
I believe oil and water should be optimized both. Cause they work together.
Boxing is the key. At least the radiator. Mine seems over complicated but in this way you have fresh air hitting everything (trans. Oil. Radiator)
235f is maximum trans temp you should have.
If you go more. You damage it.
My max temps are 190 now.
Upgrade the clutches too. At least.
Last. Tune is important. I work with Ken osborne of OZTUNING.
there are other things to be done. But this is the key to have the trans to work.

Here to help.
Alessandro

View attachment 94670

I’m too new to private message, but thank you all very much for the tips. I’ll def try to do as close as I can with budget.

I set aside money for a transmission rebuild as I see the inevitable coming.. but is waiting for my trans to give and rebuilding less optimal? I have 36k miles on it currently, and it feels a teeny bit weird going 7th/8th gear rn.

I’ll get the Mishimoto, does your boxing method delete ac? If so, is there a way I can do this without that? And if I don’t box or do it differently, I guess it wouldn’t be as efficient as your system.

I’ll def message you about the bypass when this site lets me. I’ve been trying to decide how to bypass for a hot minute.

 

[flyhalf]

I’m too new to private message, but thank you all very much for the tips. I’ll def try to do as close as I can with budget.

I set aside money for a transmission rebuild as I see the inevitable coming.. but is waiting for my trans to give and rebuilding less optimal? I have 36k miles on it currently, and it feels a teeny bit weird going 7th/8th gear rn.

I’ll get the Mishimoto, does your boxing method delete ac? If so, is there a way I can do this without that? And if I don’t box or do it differently, I guess it wouldn’t be as efficient as your system.

I’ll def message you about the bypass when this site lets me. I’ve been trying to decide how to bypass for a hot minute.

You can definitely box with AC. Just slighty more tricky with the extra tubing. Mine was boxed like that before removing the AC.
If easier you can contact me on instagram
www.instagram.com/italian_stang

Ps. U rarely use the 8th.on track
If money is to be considered i would do this (as order of importance and efficacy):
1. Bypass
2. Bigger trans cooler
3. Bigger oil cooler.
4. Bigger radiator
With racelouvers to be in asap.

 

[Chrome]

I have a similar question on this topic. Trying to size an oil cooler for my setup.

• GT350 5.2 engine (close to stock gt350 power), PP1 radiator (a new fresh one), manual trans.
• I don't track often (the car sees mostly to and from autocross), but when I do track its probably 100°F outside and max 20 minute sessions.
• I have all the hood vents, but no ducting at first. (Its on the todo list)
• (No manual trans cooler yet)... will look at that .

I'll do AN12 lines from a Setrab sandwich plate w/ thermostat off a GT's oil filter adapter (minus the factory GTPP water-to-oil cooler)

I see recommendations for coolers in size from a 650,660,948,960. is a 948 the safe bet or is a 650 enough?

(FWIW, its all going to be an >2x upgrade over the stock GT350 cooler, I assume)

 

[steveespo]

I have a similar question on this topic. Trying to size an oil cooler for my setup.

• GT350 5.2 engine (close to stock gt350 power), PP1 radiator (a new fresh one), manual trans.
• I don't track often (the car sees mostly to and from autocross), but when I do track its probably 100°F outside and max 20 minute sessions.
• I have all the hood vents, but no ducting at first. (Its on the todo list)
• (No manual trans cooler yet)... will look at that .

I'll do AN12 lines from a Setrab sandwich plate w/ thermostat off a GT's oil filter adapter (minus the factory GTPP water-to-oil cooler)

I see recommendations for coolers in size from a 650,660,948,960. is a 948 the safe bet or is a 650 enough?

948 minimum, 960 recommended. -12 is good. Boxing radiator to grille opening was worth 10 degrees in both oil and water temp. Vents on hood worth another 10 make sure front of vent is 6-8" behind back of fan shroud. Remove the flappers from the shroud.
Steve

 

[flyhalf]

948 minimum, 960 recommended. -12 is good. Boxing radiator to grille opening was worth 10 degrees in both oil and water temp. Vents on hood worth another 10 make sure front of vent is 6-8" behind back of fan shroud. Remove the flappers from the shroud.
Steve

Fyi
660 and 948 has the same surface area.
Just different shape.

Agree for all the rest. The boxing is the MOST IMPORTANT THING.

 

[Chrome]

Fyi
660 and 948 has the same surface area.
Just different shape.

Agree for all the rest. The boxing is the MOST IMPORTANT THING.

Yeah I noticed the areas on those two are very close. 660 should be preferred then because the narrower shape with more rows should be less of a pressure drop.

I'll look into boxing. My friend does great work with denim jeans and epoxy.

 

[flyhalf]

Yeah I noticed the areas on those two are very close. 660 should be preferred then because the narrower shape with more rows should be less of a pressure drop.

I'll look into boxing. My friend does great work with denim jeans and epoxy.

I have 660. Behind a 650 for the trans
Great choice

 

[Nbjeeptj]

There is an easy button for the ducting if you can live without AC condenser. Watson racing sells this setup that has the mount for the 960 cooler built in.