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Dark Horse R Press Release

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Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
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Blair, Nebraska
Agree with Crazy Chapeau , and I recommend folks start with R16s up front, and make sure they are always Pre-bedded. I ran only R18s because I am hard on brakes and I usually don't brake into a corner until tomorrow. Regardless of pads and rotors I really encourage ducting and if that is not convenient at this point in your track life adventures look into Vorschlag's brake ducting plates that fit on the A arms ---- they work quite well. I used them on my Mach 1 and never used any hoses.

Nice , also, that Vorshlag is a site Sponsor!
 

xr7

TMO Addict?
700
812
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Autocross
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10-20 Years
Minnesota
Agree with Crazy Chapeau , and I recommend folks start with R16s up front, and make sure they are always Pre-bedded. I ran only R18s because I am hard on brakes and I usually don't brake into a corner until tomorrow. Regardless of pads and rotors I really encourage ducting and if that is not convenient at this point in your track life adventures look into Vorschlag's brake ducting plates that fit on the A arms ---- they work quite well. I used them on my Mach 1 and never used any hoses.

Nice , also, that Vorshlag is a site Sponsor!
"I usually don't brake into a corner until tomorrow." LMAO 🤣
 
320
266
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Bulgaria
Agree with Crazy Chapeau , and I recommend folks start with R16s up front, and make sure they are always Pre-bedded. I ran only R18s because I am hard on brakes and I usually don't brake into a corner until tomorrow. Regardless of pads and rotors I really encourage ducting and if that is not convenient at this point in your track life adventures look into Vorschlag's brake ducting plates that fit on the A arms ---- they work quite well. I used them on my Mach 1 and never used any hoses.

Nice , also, that Vorshlag is a site Sponsor!

I will have that in mind with the R16 so I guess will need R12 for the rear if go that route ? Otherwise my front grill is different than the pp1 grill so hoses not an option. If ducting plates work I'm going that route also much easy and better for street car.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,370
8,235
Exp. Type
Time Attack
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20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
The ducting plates from Vorshlag were used at Hasting and Topeka tracks and I never had fluid boil and as hard as I am on brakes I give them the thumbs up. As you noted ,much easier for a street car too! The big plus for ducting is the pads and rotors always last longer!
 
1,070
1,065
Exp. Type
HPDE
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5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I will have that in mind with the R16 so I guess will need R12 for the rear if go that route ? Otherwise my front grill is different than the pp1 grill so hoses not an option. If ducting plates work I'm going that route also much easy and better for street car.
I have run R16 on the front with both R10 and R12 on the rear but I have an S197 so not a direct comparison. They both work well on my car but the R12 gives a little more rear bias. It depends on the balance you are looking for. Vorshlag claims the deflectors work as well as the older style ducts and hoses. If I was looking for brake cooling now, I wouldn't bother with the hose style.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,370
8,235
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
I ran R18s up front with R10s, but they are essentially an Endurance pad ( 18s ) and considering the track you normally run I would think 16s are great , and I would use 10s in the rear. The may wear a bit more, but I feel they give you a better balance since their low hear gradient means they begin working sooner. EF1 had a good point , but I did both on my S197s and my S550s.

PS - and as noted always, always, get them Pre-Bedded
 
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That's an interesting design. Interesting to see that they've stayed with the solid bridge over top of the calipers requiring you to complete remove them to do a pad change. I guess they're assuming that no one will be running the Dark Horse R in an event where the pads will need to be changed mid-race without swapping the entire braking package.
 
1,237
1,227
In the V6L
That's an interesting design. Interesting to see that they've stayed with the solid bridge over top of the calipers requiring you to complete remove them to do a pad change. I guess they're assuming that no one will be running the Dark Horse R in an event where the pads will need to be changed mid-race without swapping the entire braking package.
There's an interesting approach to changing pads for endurance events that enables the use of solid-bridge calipers. This thread - https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/excuse-me-pardon-me-indy.20142/post-304194 - shows how they swap the calipers and rotors together. With that setup, you don't have to worry about the caliper bridge.

What's more interesting about that caliper is the shape - Brembo owns AP Racing, and the caliper has that "where can we remove extra metal?" look that AP pioneered a decade or so ago.
 
There's an interesting approach to changing pads for endurance events that enables the use of solid-bridge calipers. This thread - https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/excuse-me-pardon-me-indy.20142/post-304194 - shows how they swap the calipers and rotors together. With that setup, you don't have to worry about the caliper bridge.

What's more interesting about that caliper is the shape - Brembo owns AP Racing, and the caliper has that "where can we remove extra metal?" look that AP pioneered a decade or so ago.
Yea I assume they expect you to have a pre-bled setup with a dry break on the line for endurance racing. Plenty of GT3 cars doing this already.

Totally agree on the AP style design.
 

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