Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!
This is a great place to ask. I have noticed two distinct groups of expertise on the site. Guys who know how to prepare a car for road racing and those who know drag racing mods.
I to have limited experience with modifying a Mustang. Reading several of the threads and asking questions I decided to go with LCAs, relocation brackets, adjustable Panhard bar and lowering springs. All from FRPP.
This mod did stop the wheel hop I was experiencing.
Do you need all these parts to stop wheel hop? Not usually. I attributed the hop to soft bushing in the factory LCAs as well as flex in the arms themselves. I still have the factory upper arm and now experience no wheel hop.
I would recommend starting with Lower arms and relocation brackets. There are several manufactures and dozens of suppliers. Many offer discounts to BMO members. Other have periodic sales ranging from 5-15%. If you have the time, shop around.
I have done LCA's on my BOSS. They are BBR billet pieces. it reduced wheel hop but didnt cure it on all road surfaces. I have an adjustable UCA from steeda and their UCA Bracket to install. I hope this gets rid of it. next step for me will the LCA relocation brackets. I am hesitating on getting those as it requires welding if you are going to drag race and use slicks.
I've done the LCA's and relo brackets on the Boss, a lot of improvment. Before the boss I had a superchaged Bullitt that I drag raced, that had upper and lower LCA's. The lowers with the brackets are what cured the wheel hop. I later went to an adjustable upper to get the pinion angle correct after lowering and 1 piece driveshaft. At the time the only adjustable lowers had rod ends and I wanted something that wouldn't increase the road noise. I did have some trouble with a clunking noise after installing the upper after some time. Each time I found the bolt was loose. I used loctite and torqued to proper specs, but it would still happen.
I would vote no chaning out the upper its not necessary IMO. Check out Vorshlag, I seem to recall they changed out the upper for the whiteline unit and then ended up changing it back to stock.