S197 3V Fabman's build; How did we get here? Build Thread

[Fabman]

When you said " easy to replace" I was thinking, are we talking about the same thing? Because it was a PITA for me.

Yeah, it sucked....but not as much as pulling the transmission.

 

[Mad Hatter]

I dont know, after pulling the transmission out 10 times it gets to be fairly simple.

 

[EF1]

I dont know, after pulling the transmission out 10 times it gets to be fairly simple.

I'm with you. I would rather pull the transmission than stand on my head under the dash trying to remove the pedal box.

 

[Fabman]

I dont know, after pulling the transmission out 10 times it gets to be fairly simple.

This one is a little more complicated than a mt82.

 

[Fabman]

I'm with you. I would rather pull the transmission than stand on my head under the dash trying to remove the pedal box.

Drive shaft has a slip yolk so it pours fluid all over when you pull the drive shaft (or dump 100 bucks of amsoil out ahead of time and replace) which you have to fight out because the torque arm is in the way. then you have to pull the intake manifold so you can tip the motor back far enough for the s1 shifter to clear the hole in the tunnel. You’ll need to remove the belly pan too when you tip the motor back, so don’t forget that part. Also don’t forget to disconnect those 5 teeny tiny wires for the gear position sensor on the s1 that are too tiny for a plug or you’ll stretch that wire again and have to buy a new 400.00 sensor and re solder the wires on like last time. Of course you have to pull the exhaust off and solid motor mount bolts and solid radiator hoses, and catch all that water….then pull the trans off the scatter shield, then use 3 extensions and 3 wobblys to get the top starter bolt out, (that’s like 2 hours right there) and of course disconnect the battery so no arc welding occurs. Then you can start pulling all those bolts around the scatter shield that hold the back plate on and then you can start pulling the main bell housing bolts out of the block. You can now see the clutch. But wait…did you remember to disconnect the line for the slave cylinder? Yeah you know that one you can’t possibly reach from above or below and when you finally do the clip goes flying and you have look for it for a week to find it……yeah, this one’s not so simple. The pedal box was only a couple hours to remove and replace. It takes me that long just to remove my starter.

 

[EF1]

Drive shaft has a slip yolk so it pours fluid all over when you pull the drive shaft (or dump 100 bucks of amsoil out ahead of time and replace) which you have to fight out because the torque arm is in the way. then you have to pull the intake manifold so you can tip the motor back far enough for the s1 shifter to clear the hole in the tunnel. You’ll need to remove the belly pan too when you tip the motor back, so don’t forget that part. Also don’t forget to disconnect those 5 teeny tiny wires for the gear position sensor on the s1 that are too tiny for a plug or you’ll stretch that wire again and have to buy a new 400.00 sensor and re solder the wires on like last time. Of course you have to pull the exhaust off and solid motor mount bolts and solid radiator hoses, and catch all that water….then pull the trans off the scatter shield, then use 3 extensions and 3 wobblys to get the top starter bolt out, (that’s like 2 hours right there) and of course disconnect the battery so no arc welding occurs. Then you can start pulling all those bolts around the scatter shield that hold the back plate on and then you can start pulling the main bell housing bolts out of the block. You can now see the clutch. But wait…did you remember to disconnect the line for the slave cylinder? Yeah you know that one you can’t possibly reach from above or below and when you finally do the clip goes flying and you have look for it for a week to find it……yeah, this one’s not so simple. The pedal box was only a couple hours to remove and replace. It takes me that long just to remove my starter.

I have a Magnum XL but no S1 or torque arm. From the sounds of it I am glad I dont’.

 

[Fabman]

I have a Magnum XL but no S1 or torque arm. From the sounds of it I am glad I dont’.

The price of progress….

 

[Mad Hatter]

Oh boy, that sounds like a big pain in the ass..... the mt82 is so much easier. We can swap a tranny in less then 5 hours now. Practice makes perfect

 

[Dave_W]

those 5 teeny tiny wires for the gear position sensor on the s1 that are too tiny for a plug

Take a look at the AIM 5-pin 712-to-712 extension cable. Keyed connectors with threaded lock ring, male on one end and female on the other. Cut it in the middle to make 2 pigtails you can solder into your cable and connect together. Just a thought.

 

[Fabman]

This just in....

 

[KazarS197]

This just in....

View attachment 98882

Calendar pic. There's nothing like an S197 front end, retroish new at the same time!

 

[302BOB]

Frankenstang looks very hungry in that pic.....He already went thru the first course, now He's looking for seconds...............................

 

[Mad Hatter]

Nice big shark mouth, I like it! and yes, am a little biased.

 

[Albino500]

Drive shaft has a slip yolk so it pours fluid all over when you pull the drive shaft (or dump 100 bucks of amsoil out ahead of time and replace) which you have to fight out because the torque arm is in the way. then you have to pull the intake manifold so you can tip the motor back far enough for the s1 shifter to clear the hole in the tunnel. You’ll need to remove the belly pan too when you tip the motor back, so don’t forget that part. Also don’t forget to disconnect those 5 teeny tiny wires for the gear position sensor on the s1 that are too tiny for a plug or you’ll stretch that wire again and have to buy a new 400.00 sensor and re solder the wires on like last time. Of course you have to pull the exhaust off and solid motor mount bolts and solid radiator hoses, and catch all that water….then pull the trans off the scatter shield, then use 3 extensions and 3 wobblys to get the top starter bolt out, (that’s like 2 hours right there) and of course disconnect the battery so no arc welding occurs. Then you can start pulling all those bolts around the scatter shield that hold the back plate on and then you can start pulling the main bell housing bolts out of the block. You can now see the clutch. But wait…did you remember to disconnect the line for the slave cylinder? Yeah you know that one you can’t possibly reach from above or below and when you finally do the clip goes flying and you have look for it for a week to find it……yeah, this one’s not so simple. The pedal box was only a couple hours to remove and replace. It takes me that long just to remove my starter.

Sounds like a 2 hour job....

 

[Fabman]

Changed the master….that wasn’t it.

 

[Mad Hatter]

Changed the master….that wasn’t it.

Crap.... time to wipe out your tranny.

 

[Fabman]

Crap.... time to wipe out your tranny.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Sorry Fabman. I was hoping.

 

[Ludachris]

Crap.... time to wipe out your tranny.

 

[Fabman]

Sorry Fabman. I was hoping.

Me too.