The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

First suspension upgrades to 2013. Help!

I have about $1400 to spend on some stuff for my Boss. I have a Barton shifter and white line trans mount waiting to go in. The car will be doing track days 4/5 times this summer. I drive it often, I'm not worried about added NVH or Harsh ride. I was looking into the 302R springs and some other stuff. Looking for advise on what to pick up first in my price range to make the car perform better before adding any power. Thank you!
 
I went with the eibach springs on the four corners. Helps me with brake dive.

I think ford has a decent and specific to the boss spring now. The "t" spring?

Steve
 
I assume that you already know TIRES make the biggest difference for the money you pay, period.
If you are on stock wheels you can fit Potenza RE-11 265/35-19 up front and 285/35-19 rear !
Ironically enough though, your body roll will increase! You are now glued to the tarmac so the car rolls more, but your lap times will be faster with higher cornering speed.
Watch this please
http://youtu.be/FSqWD5BSeoY

The reason I said dampers, I think all S197s, including the Bosses and the Shelby are under-dampened.
Which dampers? I, myself, will go with Koni Sports, they combine a good price and performance.
If you want higher end, you can go AST, Motion control Suspension...etc

Then, later on you can add a watts link to stabilize/tame the rear end.

Then you can go wild, stiff lowering springs, sway bars, big fat sticky tires on some 18 inch light wheels, maybe coilovers...etc I don't know :)
But at this point you have to understand, you might end up losing the factory boss balance, so be very cautious from "over engineering" lol
There are great knowledgable people in this forum, they can help you.
Read reviews about specific dampers, springs, tires...etc then will likely come up with good conclusion
 
I have Pilot super sports on the car currently. 275 fronts and 295 rears. I love them. I was considering changing out to the Pilot cup 2's, but i dont really think i will. I dont want to buy a set of track wheels and slicks yet as i think it is beyond my driving ability. I was looking at the BMR packages they sell from their site and i think i may go with the Koni's and FRPP T Springs along with some of the Control arms to start and some other stuff i havent decided on yet.
 
Camber bolts or a set of camber plates from mm or the like.
Keep n mind you might be needing other items like the pan hard bar that is adjustable.

You might be surprised at how well the car is factory also and having the dampners and tires as stated above might be the very best way for you to go until you gain skills
 
I think if you're doing springs make sure to do it right. I may have gone over board but when I got P springs, which I would recommend, I also did PHB, brace, LCA's, and relo brackets. That will use most of your budget. I would also just get CC plates if you end up needing them. I would think they are better than camber bolts.
 

Domestic Product

Big fat tires and everything !
OK, welcome to the mod club. Once you start its hard to stop! I assume you have done all the track prep per your Boss manual. I would add brake pads to that list and some fluid if its not on there. Call KNS for this.
Once the above is complete. Option A. do tires and go out and have fun, I like the Michelin Super Sports but there are others. This will use up the budget more or less.
Option B. leave the stock Pirellis on and do springs , dampers and a adjustable panhard with a alignment this will use up the budget as well. As long as you are choosing a spring with a mild drop you will be OK with out all the other stuff you need when you go lower. The Boss springs from Ford would be good. I like Whiteline for the panhard and Bilstein HDs for the dampers.
Do your research and read up here on BMO on all this. Lots of good options. Good luck with your mods.
 
367
1
$1400 really "only gets you" tires and pads.
Those 2 changes alone on a factory Boss will turn it into something real special.

Seat time > mods. Just get proper consumables, get out there and enjoy!
I compete in local time attack with a stock Boss--Infact, last year I competed on a show room stock Boss (apart from brake fluid and alignment).
Honestly, the thing is so good. Build your confidence with the car and anticipate what it's going to do. This car rewards a better driver because it takes real skill and kahunas to drive this thing 10/10ths.
 
boro92 said:
$1400 really "only gets you" tires and pads.
Those 2 changes alone on a factory Boss will turn it into something real special.

Seat time > mods. Just get proper consumables, get out there and enjoy!
I compete in local time attack with a stock Boss--Infact, last year I competed on a show room stock Boss (apart from brake fluid and alignment).
Honestly, the thing is so good. Build your confidence with the car and anticipate what it's going to do. This car rewards a better driver because it takes real skill and kahunas to drive this thing 10/10ths.

Don't forget brake cooling! Your first $700 bucks should be brake pads and cooling ducts.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I think your budget covers: Brake ducts, trans scoop, pads, rotors for next year. The FRPP kit is expensive for '13s. You could put together your own kit with Blowfish or Vorshlag plates and modify your inlets yourself.

If there's any budget left get some CC plates (or bolts) to help save your front tire wear.

Count on needing a new set of tires too, before the end of the year.
 
The most important and cheap upgrade is replacing the crap DOT3. No idea why they chose it for a "track ready" car...mine had floaters in the reservoir just from street use. My focus came with DOT4 though ???

For double duty tires that won't break the bank you could look at BFG SC2 or the new MT street comps. The mickey Thompson's come in stock sizes. Last time I looked, both were in the low $200 range each. Another good buy no one has mentioned is some racing gloves. I baught some from Racequip. Inexpensive, keeps sweat of the nice wheel, extra grip if your hands are dry. I have actually been using them this winter for daily driving and shoveling snow. They are nice and warm, which I did not expect. Just don't get them wet.
 
367
1
cosm3os said:
Don't forget brake cooling! Your first $700 bucks should be brake pads and cooling ducts.

Ah right - I forgot my only modification last season :) I did do brake ducts.
The car *needs* it! She's a big girl and has a lot of heft to throw around. Stock pads won't really be up to the task even with the ducts... I cannot imagine how it would be without them.

So basically, for $1400 you can get some semi-serious pads, brake ducts and some track time. There isn't enough budget there for some proper rubber. With that in mind, I'd actually consider getting a fixed bucket instead. Something like a Sparco Sprint works well, is cheap and will actually help you drop lap times. Being held in the car and stable as a driver can go a long way...
 
hi guys. I am looking for the best option to drop the rear of the car-rid the truck look so to speak.
I don't want to wreck the factory tuned suspension or create a rough ride as I will use it for daily driving, no track time period. just trying to lower the rear period. thoughts? ideas?
 
in your opinion, can I simply install the rear springs, get the 1" drop and that's that? no shocks, nor anything else required?
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,284
3,313
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
daboss2279 said:
in your opinion, can I simply install the rear springs, get the 1" drop and that's that? no shocks, nor anything else required?

Some guys have done just that with the P springs. I ran the p springs in the rear for a few months before swapping out the fronts. No issues.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top