S550 Honey Badger GT350 Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

[Fabman]

The controller I have is essential a little computer that controls a potentiometer, so I can run it at a bunch of different levels. it's been super helpful. What i've discovered is that the diameter of the outlet hoses matters a lot more than the speed once you get up above about 60%

The Pierburg is about 40GPM at 0.85 bar and 58GPM at .55 bar. I wonder what pressure that 55gpm from Meziere's specs is calculated at.

I have a similar controller on my fuel pump. I don't know about the meziere details but I bet they have it on the website somewhere.

Correction, its 55 GPM not 65.

Electric Pump Ford Coyote, High Flow, Late Model 5.0

Our line of cooling system products currently includes items such as: electric high flow water pumps, cooling system accessories, recovery tanks and radiators.

www.meziere.com

 

[honeybadger]

I have a similar controller on my fuel pump. I don't know about the meziere details but I bet they have it on the website somewhere.

Correction, its 55 GPM not 65.

Electric Pump Ford Coyote, High Flow, Late Model 5.0

Our line of cooling system products currently includes items such as: electric high flow water pumps, cooling system accessories, recovery tanks and radiators.

www.meziere.com

when I was looking at pumps I remember researching pressures pretty significantly. I don't see anything from Meziere, but I think I remember someone calculating that it was 2-3 PSI - but i can't remember for sure. I do know the Pierburg is widely used because it runs at a higher than average pressure in order to meet requirements by the OEMs that use them (such as BMW) and that means you have more headroom with restrictions and higher temps. But can't say for sure.

Either way - it kicks ass and has kept the car super cool all year. Water temps run about 200*

 

[Fabman]

when I was looking at pumps I remember researching pressures pretty significantly. I don't see anything from Meziere, but I think I remember someone calculating that it was 2-3 PSI - but i can't remember for sure. I do know the Pierburg is widely used because it runs at a higher than average pressure in order to meet requirements by the OEMs that use them (such as BMW) and that means you have more headroom with restrictions and higher temps. But can't say for sure.

Either way - it kicks ass and has kept the car super cool all year. Water temps run about 200*

Can't argue with success.

 

[honeybadger]

Got the sensors for the cylinder heads working. Good to go for testing the cylinder head mods next month

 

[byronj]

I love and hate reading the conversation between @Fabman and @honeybadger. You two jerks make me want to go into more of a rabbit hole. Thanks A-holes.

 

[honeybadger]

I love and hate reading the conversation between @Fabman and @honeybadger. You two jerks make me want to go into more of a rabbit hole. Thanks A-holes.

if it makes you feel any better - I was in your place a couple years back. then I dove in head first. my wife wishes I hadn't and my wallet is absolutely empty, but I'm happy as a pig rolling around in a whole pile of mud.

so come join us

 

[Fabman]

if it makes you feel any better - I was in your place a couple years back. then I dove in head first. my wife wishes I hadn't and my wallet is absolutely empty, but I'm happy as a pig rolling around in a whole pile of mud.

so come join us

This is the most fun part of the sport....strategy.
The actual racing/winning part is just validation: ie my stuff works. (or doesn't work)

 

[honeybadger]

This is the most fun part of the sport....strategy.
The actual racing/winning part is just validation: ie my stuff works. (or doesn't work)

its true. AT LEAST half of my enjoyment comes from building it. i'm still utterly dumbfounded that I was able to do some of the things I did - top of the list being wire the entire car and it generally work. I think I had only like 3 things that i needed to debug that involved actual wiring. it was wild

 

[Fabman]

its true. AT LEAST half of my enjoyment comes from building it. i'm still utterly dumbfounded that I was able to do some of the things I did - top of the list being wire the entire car and it generally work. I think I had only like 3 things that i needed to debug that involved actual wiring. it was wild

This is why I love your build page....you are doing waaaay better than most enthusiasts in their garage.

 

[byronj]

Kev- Ive been slowly following your footsteps. Just quieter and slower.

Sal- Im afraid if we hang out more i'll end up doing it quicker.

 

[Fabman]

Kev- Ive been slowly following your footsteps. Just quieter and slower.

Sal- Im afraid if we hang out more i'll end up doing it quicker.

You are always welcome here. We don’t see you enough anymore.

 

[honeybadger]

Alright - update time on the flat floor!

So I got the trans back in, the driveshaft reinstalled and then I installed some heat shielding. I used a non-insulated version of this all summer and it was great. Center console isn't hot and the driveshaft has shown no signs of fatigue. you can also see the added heat shielding above the mid pipes. When I used the ARH mid pipes, I didn't have a heat issue. But once I made my own that were tucked up into the chassis much tighter, the floor was absolute fire. It would get to so hot that your feet would start to burn if you left them on it. But this little bit of shielding has made it a complete non-issue.





It's fairly tight, but there's decent clearance for the driveshaft. Really wish ford had done this from the factory like many of the Euro cars (where I got the idea), but I get it. steel driveshafts don't really care about the heat



With the shielding, I was able to mount the my panels. I have 4 separate panels for the floor. One "belly pan" that's super light and is only under the engine. 2 that cover the middle of the body and 1 more that covers where the OEM fuel tank went and connects to the diffuser.


All the panels are held in by 1/4 turn fasteners (also know as dzus fasteners) for super easy removal. There's very little flex. It's awesome.



I still have some heat management to do. I have a couple Naca ducts printing in a high temp filament that I plan to mount in the back of the engine/belly pan to send air down the tunnel. And then I'll add another 1-2 near the oem fuel tank area to get some air flow there depending on some tests I plan to run.

I do wonder if I'll need to open up the tunnel a bit. The pipes are super close to the panels. I've added some heat shielding to the panels that I'll share soon, but not sure it'll be enough. Will have to data log and see what kind of temps I see. Here's one of the panels removed so you can see what I mean. You can also see how I mounted the tabs for the fastners with the two tabs visible in the picture.



We'll see once I get a chance to start it up and run some tests

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Looking damn good, as usual.

 

[Stan Whitney]

Beautiful work there.

 

[Swiss Boss]

yep - that sounds about right. I wish they'd publish overall flow number recommendations. I run an electric water pump that uses a controller to adjust speed based on temp instead of a thermostat. So ive had to do trial and error to find the right hose sizes.

So far dual 12an into 16 wye has been the best. I'm currently testing a 16an + 12an into 16an wye.

I think the OEM hose was 1.5in diameter? but the thermostat reduces flow a good bit.

I bought a Meziere based on Fabman experience running one. I did plumb my whole system differently than yours as I was trying to keep the stock design as much as possible.

I kept the 1.5" from the driver head and go directly to the radiator without a thermostat then from the radiator to the pump.

From the passenger head I plumbed a AN8 line to the Radium degas bottle. The AN8 fitting give me a restriction of 9.5mm which is slightly above the Ford recommendation. Then from the degas bottle I have an AN10 back to the pump where the passenger used to connect.

The radiator and driver still have the small line to the degas bottle

I haven’t run the system yet so no data as of now. Soon

 

[dragoon]

Again, as stated by me months and months ago, this is all wayyyy beyond my pay grade but I do definitely enjoy what I see and read. Excellent build & continued success Kevin. Can’t wait to see the beast in person at Road America this summer for sure !!

 

[Fabman]

I bought a Meziere based on Fabman experience running one. I did plumb my whole system differently than yours as I was trying to keep the stock design as much as possible.

I kept the 1.5" from the driver head and go directly to the radiator without a thermostat then from the radiator to the pump.

From the passenger head I plumbed a AN8 line to the Radium degas bottle. The AN8 fitting give me a restriction of 9.5mm which is slightly above the Ford recommendation. Then from the degas bottle I have an AN10 back to the pump where the passenger used to connect.

The radiator and driver still have the small line to the degas bottle

I haven’t run the system yet so no data as of now. Soon

I put mine on a toggle so I can warm the motor a few minutes before turning on the pump because without a thermostat it would take an LDT (long damn time) to get all that water up to temp.
Something to think about if you haven't already.

 

[Fabman]

Again, as stated by me months and months ago, this is all wayyyy beyond my pay grade but I do definitely enjoy what I see and read. Excellent build & continued success Kevin. Can’t wait to see the beast in person at Road America this summer for sure !!

Hang around, we'll skool ya.

 

[Swiss Boss]

I put mine on a toggle so I can warm the motor a few minutes before turning on the pump because without a thermostat it would take an LDT (long damn time) to get all that water up to temp.
Something to think about if you haven't already.

I did exactly that for the same reasons. Great minds think alike

 

[GAR944]

The controller I have is essential a little computer that controls a potentiometer, so I can run it at a bunch of different levels. it's been super helpful. What i've discovered is that the diameter of the outlet hoses matters a lot more than the speed once you get up above about 60%

The Pierburg is about 40GPM at 0.85 bar and 58GPM at .55 bar. I wonder what pressure that 55gpm from Meziere's specs is calculated at.

Not sure from these posts how exactly you are running your electric pump but would this help? It appears you are running a set speed? Could be done via the ECU if aftermarket but this is self contained.
@Fabman & @Swiss Boss mentioned using a toggle switch to warm the motor first before the pump turns on, i can see someone getting distracted and coming back to a cooked engine. I'd be paranoid.
Given your exchange rate this would be cheap.

EWP & Fan Digital Controller Kit (8002)

Davies Craig Electric Water Pump (EWP®) & Fan Digital Controller Kit (Part #8002)

daviescraig.com.au