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S550 Honey Badger GT350 Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

Modified GT350 called the Honey Badger

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Not sure from these posts how exactly you are running your electric pump but would this help? It appears you are running a set speed? Could be done via the ECU if aftermarket but this is self contained.
@Fabman & @Swiss Boss mentioned using a toggle switch to warm the motor first before the pump turns on, i can see someone getting distracted and coming back to a cooked engine. I'd be paranoid.
Given your exchange rate this would be cheap.


View attachment 101232
I use a simple on/off switch w/relay.
I have everything on toggels, including the gauge lights and fan, I'll decide if I want something on or not.
Its a throw back to my stock car days with total loss ignition systems. (no charging system)
Sometimes you need every bit of cranking power you can get so you leave everything off but the spark.
Yes, you definitely do not want to forget to turn the pump on.
I wish I could say I never forgot, but water shooting out of the hood vents is a good reminder.
 
Not sure from these posts how exactly you are running your electric pump but would this help? It appears you are running a set speed? Could be done via the ECU if aftermarket but this is self contained.
@Fabman & @Swiss Boss mentioned using a toggle switch to warm the motor first before the pump turns on, i can see someone getting distracted and coming back to a cooked engine. I'd be paranoid.
Given your exchange rate this would be cheap.


View attachment 101232
I'm using something similar to that from Pierburg. It uses a dedicated temp sensor to ramp up pump speed based on temp. It's been super solid. Car heats up fast and stays cool.

1740428554604.png

I have mine set to try and maintain 186 degree water temps and it revs the pump speed up and down as needed. It's flawless. No thermostat needed. Offers a variety of options so you can set what works best for you.

1740428649259.png
 
I'm using something similar to that from Pierburg. It uses a dedicated temp sensor to ramp up pump speed based on temp. It's been super solid. Car heats up fast and stays cool.

View attachment 101242

I have mine set to try and maintain 186 degree water temps and it revs the pump speed up and down as needed. It's flawless. No thermostat needed. Offers a variety of options so you can set what works best for you.

View attachment 101243
Awesome little unit, and i mean little. Nice to see what others use as i would have never come across it.
Your build keeps the "what if i did this" ticking over in the brain. Its one car i would like to see in person if i ever made it across to the States.
 
I use a simple on/off switch w/relay.
I have everything on toggels, including the gauge lights and fan, I'll decide if I want something on or not.
Its a throw back to my stock car days with total loss ignition systems. (no charging system)
Sometimes you need every bit of cranking power you can get so you leave everything off but the spark.
Yes, you definitely do not want to forget to turn the pump on.
I wish I could say I never forgot, but water shooting out of the hood vents is a good reminder.
Water shooting out the hood vents made me laugh. My other car was similar, it used sensors for triggers but there was an override switch on everything.
 
Water shooting out the hood vents made me laugh. My other car was similar, it used sensors for triggers but there was an override switch on everything.
Looks a lot like this:

 
At least it went up where you could see it and not down where you go shooting off the track
Always happens the same way....not that I make a habit of it.
 
Thanks!

By the way, did I see that you made your doors removable? mind sharing how you setup the hinges?
Yes, they are removable. Stole Rockwell's good idea. No pics right now, but it's simple.

I think I removed the doors from the hinges first (leaving hinges attached to body of car).
Use a grinder or dremel w/ cut-off blade to cut through the hinge pin on the upper and lower door hinge.
Spread the gap created w/ a chisel or something and then extract the pieces of each pin.
I believe on S197 the hinge pin OD is 5/16", I replaced the removed pins with 5/16" OD, D-strap snap clips (originally I did pip-pins but the snap clips are much easier to use when pushing/pulling from above). I think the size is 2" or 3" long, similar to this. Need (4) in total.

Then you just line the door up and push the pins in vertically through the original holes. On the upper hinge, I have to go in from below, and on the lower hinge, the approach is from the top down. Door attaches in about 30 seconds and removes even faster.
 
Awesome video, and great job wiring & programming all that stuff. It is kinda hard to explain the pedal mapping, but I think you got the point across. Basically, you can "stretch" a given range of engine response across a bigger percentage of pedal travel, so the pedal movement gives you finer control of the engine in that range. For your "rain" map, you still end up at 100% engine at 100% pedal, but I'm guessing you could even map that to limit to 85% engine at 100% pedal (at least for some rpm columns), so you can't even demand peak torque at WOT. Which would probably be even safer for a rain map.

Note: In real life, the reset button does not fix body damage. :D
 
Awesome video, and great job wiring & programming all that stuff. It is kinda hard to explain the pedal mapping, but I think you got the point across. Basically, you can "stretch" a given range of engine response across a bigger percentage of pedal travel, so the pedal movement gives you finer control of the engine in that range. For your "rain" map, you still end up at 100% engine at 100% pedal, but I'm guessing you could even map that to limit to 85% engine at 100% pedal (at least for some rpm columns), so you can't even demand peak torque at WOT. Which would probably be even safer for a rain map.

Note: In real life, the reset button does not fix body damage. :D
yep - exactly. My standard map is stil a bit conservative in 10-40% pedal travel regardless of RPM, which helps keep you from lighting up the tires when getting back on throttle. But that means sometimes I have to stab it a bit more to get the rear to rotate when I want to use throttle. I'm hoping my "high grip" map will give me a bit more of a drive by cable feel, so it feels more direct. Obviously its a bit more sensitive, but that should be okay. The one I have now is really good at preserving tires.

I'm really excited for the rain mapping - the traction control is really great at managing torque, but obviously it doesn't manage RPM directly like the pedal does, so getting more fidelity at lower RPMs should really help get the most out of the power without excessive slip.

These two capabilities are just so darn cool. Unlike the TC in road cars that includes stability, this only controls traction. and it's setup to give you the most amount of power the tires will hold. So it's less about "Keeping you safe" and more about helping you use every bit of power. I've done back to back laps with it now and it's faster. a good 1-2 seconds a lap depending on conditions. its wild
 
Yes, they are removable. Stole Rockwell's good idea. No pics right now, but it's simple.

I think I removed the doors from the hinges first (leaving hinges attached to body of car).
Use a grinder or dremel w/ cut-off blade to cut through the hinge pin on the upper and lower door hinge.
Spread the gap created w/ a chisel or something and then extract the pieces of each pin.
I believe on S197 the hinge pin OD is 5/16", I replaced the removed pins with 5/16" OD, D-strap snap clips (originally I did pip-pins but the snap clips are much easier to use when pushing/pulling from above). I think the size is 2" or 3" long, similar to this. Need (4) in total.

Then you just line the door up and push the pins in vertically through the original holes. On the upper hinge, I have to go in from below, and on the lower hinge, the approach is from the top down. Door attaches in about 30 seconds and removes even faster.
okay, we're gonna need a video on that....
 
yep - exactly. My standard map is stil a bit conservative in 10-40% pedal travel regardless of RPM, which helps keep you from lighting up the tires when getting back on throttle. But that means sometimes I have to stab it a bit more to get the rear to rotate when I want to use throttle. I'm hoping my "high grip" map will give me a bit more of a drive by cable feel, so it feels more direct. Obviously its a bit more sensitive, but that should be okay. The one I have now is really good at preserving tires.

I'm really excited for the rain mapping - the traction control is really great at managing torque, but obviously it doesn't manage RPM directly like the pedal does, so getting more fidelity at lower RPMs should really help get the most out of the power without excessive slip.

These two capabilities are just so darn cool. Unlike the TC in road cars that includes stability, this only controls traction. and it's setup to give you the most amount of power the tires will hold. So it's less about "Keeping you safe" and more about helping you use every bit of power. I've done back to back laps with it now and it's faster. a good 1-2 seconds a lap depending on conditions. its wild
All that stuff is way over my simple minded head....time for this old timer to retire.
I continue to be impressed with all that you've done.
 
All that stuff is way over my simple minded head....time for this old timer to retire.
I continue to be impressed with all that you've done.
Yeah, you and me both. The over the head part.
I no longer mod cars, if they have warts I drive around them. It's a hell of a lot easier doing that than going through all the hassle of constantly working on the car.
If you like working on the car, good on ya, I'm impressed all to hell with what people do to their cars, but I'm done with that shti.
 
Yeah, you and me both. The over the head part.
I no longer mod cars, if they have warts I drive around them. It's a hell of a lot easier doing that than going through all the hassle of constantly working on the car.
If you like working on the car, good on ya, I'm impressed all to hell with what people do to their cars, but I'm done with that shti.
I'm good with suspension and fab work. I hate mechanical work and don't do electrical or trans rebuilds. Other than that I'm good to go.
As much as I like to think I'm an old school warrior/Drive it like a man - No ABS, No TC and data collection through the seat of your pants I must confess, the potential of this new fangled computer/car interface world is just amazing and if you're going to be the least bit serious you just can't be competitive without it. Like when we went from carbs to EFI and VVT, you had to get on board or "get gone by".
At least I was around to see it coming. I'm fortunate that no one in my class was good enough with it to beat the old skool dude....but those days are about over.
I'll just sit on the porch watching the new cars race and talk about "how fast I was when cars were cars and men were men" and maybe be just a little bit envious.
But...I won't let on. ;)
 
Again, as stated by me months and months ago, this is all wayyyy beyond my pay grade but I do definitely enjoy what I see and read. Excellent build & continued success Kevin. Can’t wait to see the beast in person at Road America this summer for sure !!

Hang around, we'll skool ya.

All that stuff is way over my simple minded head....time for this old timer to retire.
I continue to be impressed with all that you've done.
Welcome to my world Sal !! 😐
I’m happy with whatever Ford gave me on this mach1 HP unit 😬
 
Have a lot to share from this weekend, but starting with this. 19 mins of pure mechanical abuse testing my new cooling mod. had to take underbody aero off and the tires corded this session - so it was a real dance with the car.

 

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