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I really love the mirrors. They've reduced wind noise substantially and they only weigh like 2 lbsGO LIKE HELL !!
Plus those side mirrors are cool
What mirrors are they? Have a link?I really love the mirrors. They've reduced wind noise substantially and they only weigh like 2 lbs
These are what I'm using. Don't remember where I bought them, thoWhat mirrors are they? Have a link?
Car looks awesome.
So glad the skids worked! Speeditaliaracing.com really thank you for the trust.Welp, I had a very eventful weekend. I repair my flat floor from my March event - which required a new belly pan and mounting the splitter in a new way.
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On my first lap at speed, the splitter mount failed and I heard the splitter slam into the ground (not a fun sound at 155 mph). But fortunately my rear mounts kept it from going under the car and @flyhalf's splitter pucks saved my custom CF splitter. These were new 1 lap earlier
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I don't have pics of the failure and I cut up the mounts while fixing the splitter, but I was able to get back out on track in the afternoon after dad ran to pickup some supplies to repair the mount. Unfortunately, on lap 7 of that session my passenger rear tire exploded going into Turn 11 - again, some bad luck with some insanely good luck. Of all places to have a tire completely fail, 35 mph in a hair pin is a good place. Limped it back. Took out one of my @AJ Hartman diffusor canards, but otherwise no damage. Not even the wheel was damaged since I limped it off the track and then got it flat-bedded to the paddock.
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Threw on a spare and went back out for the last session of the day and the trans was puking oil out the breather again. just cannot catch a break.
This continued to be a theme on Sunday - trans would puke oil. Enough to coat the area around the breather with oil and make a mess, but not enough to noticeably change the fluid level in the trans itself. I somehow must be overfilling, but not sure how. I did drain it and inspect the oil and there's no abnormal wear, so something I'll keep an eye on. Sunday was mostly going well outside of that - I was tweaking the shifting strategy and I even managed to run a whole slew of 2:18s across a few sessions in the heat of the day as well as give dad a ride in the car.
Here's my "best" lap from Sunday - should've been a 217, but I just wasn't in the frame of mind to put it together
Unfortunately, last session of the day my driveshaft exploded on lap 4 on the 1-2 shift.
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On the brightside, my new ducting was absolutely lights out. Even the though the temps were 10 degrees hotter than March and there was no wind, the car ran much cooler.
Oil temps dropped from ~230 to ~212 going back into the motor. The oil tank even saw a change from roughly 230 to 223-224 (this is the oil that is coming directly out of the engine).
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Coolant temps were even more dramatic. Water temp is now running below 170 (down from 185). And my cylinder head cooling mod is doing wonders - with the water temp at the back of the heads measuring in the 170s - a fully 10 degrees cooler. This is having a good effect on the actual head temp as well - with the OEM sensor location (not exposed to water) reporting a drop from roughly 205 to low 190s.
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This is pretty insane.
This wasn't just on lap 1-2 or anything. This data is taken from my 8th lap of flat out driving in 85 degree heat. At this point, I think I am overcooling the car a bit.
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That's really wide for a Chinese trailer tire.rear tire exploded
Right? It’s the first time a take off has given me trouble. No clue what happened. Was a surprise, tho. It was like my 5th lap on the tire. The rest finished the weekend just fine.That's really wide for a Chinese trailer tire.
Congratulations on the cooling work, that's awesome. I think you're right about over-cooling, given the water temps.
I went back and checked your pics of the head cooling mod; running an external water pump made pulling a feed line for the mod simpler it seems. Is there a place to pull a feed easily when using the stock water pump?
You'd want to splice into the lower radiator hose; that's where the "cold" water is. Whether you can get sufficient pressure from there to overcome the water pump, I don't know but I doubt it.Re: adapting to the oem cooling, I think there are two options. We could cut the oem upper radiator hose and splice in a connector. Those are super common on Summit Racing and I’ve run something similar, so am confident in their reliability. The second option is to tie into the thermostat housing. I think I have an idea there
You'd want to splice into the lower radiator hose; that's where the "cold" water is. Whether you can get sufficient pressure from there to overcome the water pump, I don't know but I doubt it.
My thought was potentially venturi effect plus colder water might be able to do it, but you’re probably right that it will be a problem. So either a spacer on the water pump or maybe we test a coolant return. Either way, I’ll find a local buddy with a stock system we can data log as soon as I find a cheap logging system.Judging by your pics, it looks like you're taking the feed to the rear of the heads from the "high pressure" side of your external pump, as the coolant goes into the block. With using either the radiator hose or the thermostat housing as the feed, wouldn't that be on the "low pressure" side of the water pump and pull hot coolant from the back of the heads instead of push cool coolant into them?
While it sucks, I'll take it over a motor or trans issue
we decided against it because of speed rating. I was told 4in was only good to 140mph and that we'd have to go bigger for my ask of 170. Steel was too prone for harmonics. So staying with CF and going to make some heat management and exhaust changesOuch. Good thing about the CF is it won't go through your floorboards etc. Time for Dynotech aluminum?