made some good progress this weekend.
Got the new custom driveshaft shop shaft in this weekend. Given the sequential, I really couldnt use aluminum and I really didn't want a steel shaft - both for weight and safety. After seeing a few exploding metal shafts - I've made the upgrade to CF a safety issue for me personally. Having a shaft whacking the transmission tunnel and threatening your legs is no fun from what i've seen. and I have no desire to experience. Fortunately, when a CF unit fails, it pretty much just explodes into lots of fibers.
So safer and much lighter.
I measured the various angles - looks like we're at 0.4 degree at both joints, so well within the 1 degree tolerance. Shouldn't have any vibrations - but we'll see.
I also finished up the cooler lines. I went back and forth on the routing what felt like a billion times. Ended up going inside the trans tunnel due to protection from kerb hopping/off roading/exhaust system. And since I went with a CF driveshaft, a failure that leads to debris piercing the lines, but the car still driveable is very unlikely. My thinking is that if I'm worried about the lines, there's a bigger issue to keep me off the track any ways. We'll see how it plays out.
Not my first choice, but the best choice I had given packaging constraints I think.
I also got a chance to finish up the plumbing tonight (well, 98% there). Water and oil plumbing is now finished. Just waiting on a couple hose ends and then I'll take everything off and send to BMRS for crimping. I am working on a plumbing video now for those interested in the ins and outs.
I also got my custom header and swirl tanks for Rob at TracTuff. Dude does awesome work and was very happy with the results.
Swirl tank to remove air from the system. Vent on top goes back to the header tank.
Header tank is at the highest part of the system for bleeding as well as filling. The (3) 6an lines are breathers from various parts of the system - head, swirl pot, and radiator.
Not installed yet is the overflow line and cap. Header tank uses standard domestic radiator cap. A keen eye will notice a 10an hose down near the header. This will connector to the lower radiator hose right below the water pump to act as a fill for the system.
So much room for activities with the tilted radiator. After wiring, I'll let get started on the ducting.