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How to Properly Jack/Lift Your Boss

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
Does anyone have any pics that show the underside of the Boss and depicts where the proper lift/jack points are for this vehicle? I personally would like to see were are the locations one could safely jack their car up, or use a hydraulic lift, without causing any damage. The illustration in the Owners manual is a bit lame in my opinion.

Note to Moderator: Could you please delete this post once this thread develops (assuming there are additional posts to topic)? I believe this thread would provide a good reference to our forum members and would be appropriately situated in the "How To" forum.

MMD
 
Re: Idea for New Thread

I have used all these points, except the axle tube. I use a piece of 2x4 about a foot long between the jack and the car as I did some damage one of the pinch welds on my track car without one. I have also used a hockey puck with a slit on the pinch weld, but that was what damaged the pinch. I don't have a low enough jack yet to get under the front with room for a 2x4, but I removed the cup from my lowest jack and can fit it with a 1x4 and that seems to work under the frame. I wouldn't use the 1x4 on the pinches.

JackPoints.png



FWIW it looks like the dealer jacked it from the center of the pinch, did not use a block, and damaged the paint on the pinch and did very minor damage to the edge while also scratching the black plastic piece.


Ford says not to use the diff, but the rumor is that they only say that in case you accidentally lift by the cover which will damage it. I have also seen threads where people showed damage done by jacking, and I added those in red. Some people use the K-member (engine cross member) to lift, but I am not going to do it. Some people also use the front suspension arms and bolts but I won't do that either. The green ones in the pic are enough to get access to pretty much everything so no need to risk it.

JackPoints-withNOpoints.jpg



Also as a general reminder, NEVER go under your car when it is just on jacks. It has to be on jack stands or ramps. All jacks eventually fail, and most will slowly leak down. All it takes is once to squash you, so "my jack has never failed before" is not sound reasoning.
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
Re: Idea for New Thread

Gee Cali! This is awesome! I hope all our forum members realize how lucky we are to have you as a member here on BMO. You are a great resource and a generous person too. My hats off to you. Another great post.

MMD
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
Re: Idea for New Thread

CaliMR said:
I have used all these points, except the axle tube. I use a piece of 2x4 about a foot long between the jack and the car as I did some damage one of the pinch welds on my track car without one. I have also used a hockey puck with a slit on the pinch weld, but that was what damaged the pinch. I don't have a low enough jack yet to get under the front with room for a 2x4, but I removed the cup from my lowest jack and can fit it with a 1x4 and that seems to work under the frame. I wouldn't use the 1x4 on the pinches.
Cali

Do the 2X4's need to be notched to accomodate the pinch welds?

MMD
 
No, it will make it's own groove. I went back and forth on doing it, but from the damage on my other car I think it is better to let it make its own groove. You want it resting on the pinch, not on the frame around it or the plastic molding. Plus the pinch is not perfectly straight. It will make a 1-2mm groove naturally from the weight, and I have been moving it so it is a new groove each time as I am a little worried about it splitting the wood eventually. I have a 2x4 cut into 8 sections and have been throwing them away after a few uses. I think the real solution is a piece of hard rubber on top of a 2x4 (need the 2x4 to distribute the weight) but have not found the right rubber yet.


The picture with the green spots I got from another forum, but they are what I have been using. In the past, I have jacked cars from the suspension and various other parts but I want this car to stay pretty underneath.
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
Let me ask - if I bring my Boss to a Ford dealer for say some unforeseen warrenty work, does the dealer have lift pads that can accomodate the Boss pinch welds?...or should I bring my 2X4's with me?

MMD
 
I'm sure they do, if they are not being lazy. It would be the same with just about any unibody car they work on, also if you lift from all four pinch spots with a real lift then the weight is spread out enough it doesn't need a big pad. The lifts usually have one built in that is fine. Mine looks like it was done with a floor jack in the middle without a proper pad (I know exactly what that looks like because I do it all the time on the track car since it is beat anyways). Jacking the Boss isn't any different from any other unibody except it has some plastic cladding by the pinch that can get pinched (pun intended) if it is not on a flat pad. So if it was going to damage the boss, it would damage any other car they work on.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I lift mine by the rear axle center section all the time. I also lift it at the point where the rear control arms mount to the body. I also lift it by the K-member. I have yet to lift it by the pinch welds....
 

drano38

Wayne
1,129
318
I noticed the middle of the door isn't listed as a jacking point.
Is the frame there not strong enough to support the car?
I've seen people use it at the track, and have done it a few times myself at home.
When I do, I use a hocky puck, and jack slightly aft of the mirror, which raises the car fairly evenly front and back--makes for quick work by lifting the front and rear at the same time.
Its convenient, but is it bad for the car?
 
That is what the dealer did to mine, and there is some damage to the pinch weld but probably just because they didn't use a pad.

I do it on my car with the 4-pt as that is where the front is welded in. I have seen cars get wonky lifted that way though, try opening the door while it is up there and see if it closes right. If not, don't lift from there.
 
I just got one of these:

http://www.revanracing.com/products/true-forged-billet-jacking-insert.html

A little pricey, but I thought I would throw it out there in case anyone's interested.

George

EDIT:

Note - Insert will not work with rear jacking points on Boss 302 models with stock side exhaust pipes
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
VTBoss302 said:
I just got one of these:

http://www.revanracing.com/products/true-forged-billet-jacking-insert.html

A little pricey, but I thought I would throw it out there in case anyone's interested.

George
best one I have seen yet thank you for the link I will be buying 4 or so in future
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
I have heard tht Ford is now putting markers/arrows on the rocker panels somewhere which identify the lift points on the 2013 Bosses. Could someone provide a pic that illustrates this?

Thanks,

MMD
 
Don't they already have notches? I don't remember off hand whether I saw them or not, but most cars do.

You still will need a block of something, to not mangle the pinches
 
VTBoss302 said:
I just got one of these:

http://www.revanracing.com/products/true-forged-billet-jacking-insert.html

Update:

I tried the jacking insert today.

On the Boss, it only works with the front jacking points.

The stock side exhaust pipes interfere with its use on the rear jacking points.

George
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
boss2511 said:
not sure how this got out of control. lift where it says in the manual. use other places at your own peril
Not sure about your comment. I will say I indicated earlier that the owner's guide illustration is IMO somewhat lame. Are you referring to some other document? There are indications that Ford made a change in the 13's and is now providing markings that now show the exact locations. I don't believe Ford would have provided these marks unless they where seeing problems similar to what Cali had experienced. It would be helpful to see where these markings are.

MMD
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
MakeMyDay said:
boss2511 said:
not sure how this got out of control. lift where it says in the manual. use other places at your own peril
Not sure about your comment. I will say I indicated earlier that the owner's guide illustration is IMO somewhat lame. Are you referring to some other document? There are indications that Ford made a change in the 13's and is now providing markings that now show the exact locations. I don't believe Ford would have provided these marks unless they where seeing problems similar to what Cali had experienced. It would be helpful to see where these markings are.

MMD
im saying that if you jack it at other locations other than the pinch weld points as indicated in the owners manual and you are unsure its at your own risk. cause I have used many other post that are "red zones" every time. in fact I have yet to use the factory points. but I cant make a fancy ass picture of where to jack a car up at and not damage it. but in the end I know what works and what doesnt been doing it since 96 and no damage but what the hell do i know
 
VTBoss302 said:
VTBoss302 said:
I just got one of these:

http://www.revanracing.com/products/true-forged-billet-jacking-insert.html

Update:

I tried the jacking insert today.

On the Boss, it only works with the front jacking points.

The stock side exhaust pipes interfere with its use on the rear jacking points.

George
Thanks, I was just about to order one. Will it fit in one of the openings in from of the side exhaust?
 

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