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How to Properly Jack/Lift Your Boss

BLAZN BOSS

fduboss302 said:
BLAZN BOSS said:
FWI.......I have raised as many cars as you guys have seen on the highway. Jacking the car by the rearend housing is no different than any car OTHER THAN the aluminum cover. just dont let the jack rest on the cover at all..........the center of the rear end is in the center of the car......my jack is cupped and it won't slip there........done it a few times and no problem. as for the front my jack cant reach the center so I use the area wher the K frame bolts to the unibody........no problems. These pinch seams are very similar to older unibody mustangs and cracing them open and/or folding them over isn't an option for me. I dont have hocky pucks and I'm confident the front jacking area I mention before will suffice with absolutly no damage. ......but all this is my opinion

Can you illustrate on the photos on page 1 where specifically on the housing you do/don't lift?
JackPoints.jpg


I use the red areas.
 
I have a two point roller jack on my 4 post lift. I pickup the lower A-arms near the tires to raise the front end with no problems. I use the pinch welds at the back to raise the entire rear end. I wouldn't lift the car from the axle tubes unless you can lift both sides simultaneously.
 
I use a 12" piece of 2 X 4 on my jack under the center waffled section of the front "K" member, then stands on the section of front "frame rail" shown in the picture. In the rear I lift from the center differential (make sure you aren't near the aluminum cover), I then put stands under the axle tubes. BTW, Harbor Freight sells a neat low profile, deep reach, high lift, floor jack. It has a "T" handle and release knob in the center. The hydraulics are very easy to regulate and best of all it can be had on sale for $130. It worked well even for my C-5 Corvette.
 
Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but have you guys seen these:

138833d1369353197-new-magnetic-jack-pad-mustang-jdj_6806_013.jpg


I thought they were pretty cool, and cheaper than all the other options.

you can buy 'em here: http://zl1addons.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_category_id=14&virtuemart_product_id=101
 
Torsion said:
Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but have you guys seen these:

138833d1369353197-new-magnetic-jack-pad-mustang-jdj_6806_013.jpg


I thought they were pretty cool, and cheaper than all the other options.

you can buy 'em here: http://zl1addons.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_category_id=14&virtuemart_product_id=101
I saw another post on those and I'm not sure how they work. They don't look like anything I'd be interested in but some feedback from a user would be nice. I went a different route and had Kenny Brown jacking rails welded onto my car. Now it's just pick a spot or towards the middle to lift both wheels.

IMG_2444_zpsda4151b1.jpg


IMG_2445_zps9d74474e.jpg


IMG_2463_zps841d70f8.jpg
 
I saw this lift system on Jay Leno's website awhile back. Pretty slick but $$$ at $299.00 for a pair.

http://jackpointjackstands.com/
 

unrealford

Mustang owner since 84
521
0
Re: Re: How to Properly Jack/Lift Your Boss

BOTIEB8 said:
I saw this lift system on Jay Leno's website awhile back. Pretty slick but $$$ at $299.00 for a pair.

http://jackpointjackstands.com/
That's awesome, I like that.
 
THE FIRST PROPER JACK STAND FOR TODAY'S CARS.

And then they show it lifting an air-cooled VW Porsche. ::)

Just playing. Those look nice. But, they are pretty big, so there could be storage and stubbed-toe concerns. Based on the cost of the magnesium engine cover on my buddy's old 80's-era VFR, $299 doesn't seem out of line, but you will still need four to get the car all the way in the air and as Rick points-out, you are limited to one height.

In the end, jacking rails (or heck, just jacking pads for the weight-concious) seem the way to go. But necessity is the mother of invention and this is probably a good solution for some people.

Since I am finally posting in this thread, here is a photo showing why I chose the Ford Racing LCA relocation brackets over some others. This is Paul Brown's car, fyi.

jackpoint.jpg


Jimmy
 

isrboss

Jimmy Pribble said:
And then they show it lifting an air-cooled VW Porsche. ::)

Just playing. Those look nice. But, they are pretty big, so there could be storage and stubbed-toe concerns. Based on the cost of the magnesium engine cover on my buddy's old 80's-era VFR, $299 doesn't seem out of line, but you will still need four to get the car all the way in the air and as Rick points-out, you are limited to one height.

In the end, jacking rails (or heck, just jacking pads for the weight-concious) seem the way to go. But necessity is the mother of invention and this is probably a good solution for some people.

Since I am finally posting in this thread, here is a photo showing why I chose the Ford Racing LCA relocation brackets over some others. This is Paul Brown's car, fyi.

jackpoint.jpg


Jimmy

Please delete that photo, that's far from proper, and don't get more doing that.

Members please understand! If you lift where the factory tells you with at least 10" 2x4 on the jack pad, YOU WILL NOT DAMAGE THE PINCH WELD. End of the lifting my Boss story please.
 
isrboss said:
Please delete that photo, that's far from proper, and don't get more doing that.

Members please understand! If you lift where the factory tells you with at least 10" 2x4 on the jack pad, YOU WILL NOT DAMAGE THE PINCH WELD. End of the lifting my Boss story please.

Why is it improper? Because wood isn't involved? ::)
 

isrboss

Jimmy Pribble said:
Why is it improper? Because wood isn't involved? ::)

Do your own thing there bro, just don't provide others with your great ways. I will simply point out that I have never seen that as a recommended jack point. Thank for trying to make ME look the fool though.
 
I think most BMO members are smart enough to read up on this subject and form their own opinions on how to best lift their Boss. Whether they choose to use strictly factory guidelines or other methods is their business.
 

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