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Koni Yellow/Steeda/Strano install--help please

I'm doing my rear today. Got everything out and now I'm ready to install. First question: do I have the koni's assembled correctly with the hardware on the top in the correct order? Is the body literally sandwiched between the two rubber bushes? Second, are these shocks left and right and/or does it matter which way the bottom sits in the bracket?

IMG_20131226_125838_285_zpsbfdab23a.jpg

Now for the springs (Steeda Sports). It has been recommended here that I use the FRPP short bumpstops. Hypermotive recommended that I just cut the top nub off the bumpstops. The installation instructions on American Muscle specifically state they should be left intact. I don't have the FRPP stops on hand, so cut or leave alone?
 
Yes, I think you have the top section correct. The body is sandwiched between the rubber bushings... which are pressed by the steel washer/plate things.

I didn't get the impression that the bottoms were asymmetric. I hope they are not, because I didn't install them a particular way.

Strano told me over the phone not to worry about the bump stops, so I left mine alone.

My only real difficulty with the rear shock install was lowering the rear axle enough to get the oem springs out. Even with the brake line bracket removed from the body, the brake lines were really approaching being pulled too tightly as the axle dropped.

So, be careful when letting the axle drop. I ended up using two jacks, one under the axle housing on each side, so that each side could be manipulated easily.

I lowered the axle about as far as I thought the brake lines would allow, then I sorta used a wedge to pry the spring off of each rear spring perch.

Good luck!
 
Got everything in and I'm starting to tighten down. There's a piece of paper for the rear konis that seems to be saying (in pictures) don't squash the shiznit out of the rubber bushings at the top. Well, I'm cranking down the nut without much resistance and the rubber bushing is getting squashed. Not even getting to 30lb/ft yet. Shaft is not turning for what that's worth so I haven't had to put a wrench on the top flats yet.

I don't have weight on the axles yet. How do I know how far to tighten?
 
745
352
Just tighten them to the point were the rubber bushing squishes in the middle to about the same diameter as the top and bottom washers. The nut will not be very tight - definitely nothing close to 30 ft/lbs.
 

steveespo

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2012-Boss said:
Just tighten them to the point were the rubber bushing squishes in the middle to about the same diameter as the top and bottom washers. The nut will not be very tight - definitely nothing close to 30 ft/lbs.

+1 on this. I use blue locktite on the KONI shafts with the lock washers and tighten until washers are fully compressed. No need to go crazy on the torque figures, as you found out it squishes the bushings out from the cup washers and the body hole.
Steve
 
Thanks for the help so far. Got it all buttoned up. Fasteners painted. Test drove it around the block, including hitting a couple of curbs and no noises. Can I call the rear a success?!

On to the front tomorrow!
 
I don't have any experience with the mustang shocks yet, but on previous cars the fronts were usually side specific, because of the sway bar endlink brackets.
 
cosm3os said:
First question on the front, and its kind of a dumb one, are the struts side specific?

I don't think so. And I think the part numbers on the box are identical. If there was a R and an L I would hope it would be more obvious from the box.
 
Looks like all the ears and attachment locations are identical. Off to get something to tighten the top nut. If I cant find a 19mm O2 sensor socket, gonna try a strap wrench around the shaft and a standard socket.
 
Well, this went FUBAR quickly. Got the driver's side front off, removed the bearing. Snapped the MM plate onto the bearing, set the spring in place and couldn't compress it by hand enough to get the top nut started. So I put the compressor on the spring and as I started to decompress, the bearing split (literally, the casing came open and the balls were exposed). Put the bearings back in place and snapped the cover back on and then the plate snapped on. Tried again and when I decompressed, the bearing seems to be holding together, but the whole thing is cock-eyed and the bearing (with the MM plates) don't spin freely (or very much at all). WTF happened? I guess the first step is to buy a new bearing.

IMG_20131227_190409_117_zps28fe8f05.jpg
 

302 Hi Pro

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cosm3os said:
Well, this went FUBAR quickly. Got the driver's side front off, removed the bearing. Snapped the MM plate onto the bearing, set the spring in place and couldn't compress it by hand enough to get the top nut started. So I put the compressor on the spring and as I started to decompress, the bearing split (literally, the casing came open and the balls were exposed). Put the bearings back in place and snapped the cover back on and then the plate snapped on. Tried again and when I decompressed, the bearing seems to be holding together, but the whole thing is cock-eyed and the bearing (with the MM plates) don't spin freely (or very much at all). WTF happened? I guess the first step is to buy a new bearing.

IMG_20131227_190409_117_zps28fe8f05.jpg

Hi there, the top plate does not look properly installed as it looks to be "cocked" by about 1/6". Are you sure you installed the bearings correctly? The two top plates should be parallel to one another. Compress the spring again and check the bearing plates. Maybe your missing some ball bearings? Once sorted, keep the springs compressed then install the camber plate, check both end spring seats, (move bottom spring sear closer to stop) use luberplate on seats. Install the top nut and run it down to stop, then decompress the spring and final tighten of the strut top nut. Once done, push the dust boot up in the cup. Hope this helps and keep us posted as to your progress. Oh by the way, those Koni Yellows look great, good choice. 302 Hi Pro
 

302 Hi Pro

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cosm3os said:
I didn't conoress it enough to run the nut all the way down to the collar on the shaft. Is that it u think?

Maybe, but look at the picture you posted, the two top plates seem to be not aligned properly, you can see a tight fit on the right side and day light on the left side. The plates should be equal or paralelle to on another. See what I mean?

Edit: well, not daylight but look at the shadow line, it increases going from right to left.

20130525_122131_zps711bb034.jpg

Rear spring jounce bumper cut off as received by Ford Racing

20130524_202421_zpsb995bd35.jpg
 
I think you are seeing a gap between parts of the camber plates. The bearing and the plate are locked together correctly. I def didn't get it all the way down to the shoulder of the shaft before releasing the spring. I think that's the problem. Back at it today!
 
Alright, I think I got it. I think that was normal to be cocked like that under tension because there is a spherical bearing in the plate that lets it articulate. Once I got it bolted in the top mount of the chassis, I could move it around to get the bottom bolted up. We'll see. Working on the other side now. I did, however, find the ultimate perfect tool for tightening the top nut . . . .
 
Done! Put it on the ground and drove around and no noises so I think I'm out of the woods (although we'll see how long the strut bearings last after getting pug hair in the races).

Thanks for all the help and support. Here's the money shot:

IMG_20131228_125849_860_zps32b7024b.jpg
 

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