Let's Talk Aero

[antman450]

Badger, how far back does your splitter extend? I have a tiger hood as well--now that there's somewhere for airflow to go, I want to force as much of it up as possible. Think closing up the ford down under tray for oil filter access. That may be a little too far back for some rules though. I think "front axle" is the aft most limit to splitters in most cases.

Mine goes to the front axle. And attaches to the K member bolts. Going back behind there it becomes interesting because of the oil pan. I think accompanying for the oil pan and the compromises needed would negate the lengthening of the splitter. But I could totally be wrong on that.


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[302blown]

We didnt test the tiger hood but it is essentially a raised louver design with the first blade being the raised front part of the tiger hood, we did test some 1" raised louvers and the results are posted above.

 

[Badger]

Badger, how far back does your splitter extend? I have a tiger hood as well--now that there's somewhere for airflow to go, I want to force as much of it up as possible. Think closing up the ford down under tray for oil filter access. That may be a little too far back for some rules though. I think "front axle" is the aft most limit to splitters in most cases.

As of right now it stops where the original airdam start, which I trimmed down. This is still a street car and I wanted to test real life practicality before going all out. The plan is to extend it to the oil pan later on. Considering how much is being left on the table it does work really well the way it is.

 

[Grant 302]

We didnt test the tiger hood but it is essentially a raised louver design with the first blade being the raised front part of the tiger hood, we did test some 1" raised louvers and the results are posted above.

There's a lot of info that can be interpolated from your data...I hope more people see it!

As of right now it stops where the original airdam start, which I trimmed down. This is still a street car and I wanted to test real life practicality before going all out. The plan is to extend it to the oil pan later on. Considering how much is being left on the table it does work really well the way it is.

I kept my GT air dam...Helps keep the lowest pressure right under the front axle.

 

[302blown]

Yes Grant302 there is a bunch of data on our site.

Also a few pages back there was talk of simply adding a wicker to the front of any vent and this does help somewhat. the design and what goes on behind the wicker is just as important if not more. Without out giving away details our RS trims wicker is less than half the height of the 1" raised louver we tested but still out performs it.

 

[neema]

There's a lot of info that can be interpolated from your data...I hope more people see it!


I kept my GT air dam...Helps keep the lowest pressure right under the front axle.

I wonder if the air dam acts as a gurney flap to suck more air out of the bottom ducted panel. With a vented hood, would you want to nix that and close off the bottom as much as possible?

 

[Grant 302]

I wonder if the air dam acts as a gurney flap to suck more air out of the bottom ducted panel. With a vented hood, would you want to nix that and close off the bottom as much as possible?

Maybe. If the entire floor is in the 4" range and the underbody pretty level...but I don't think 'as much as possible' is needed. Higher than that, I think the air dam still makes sense. And I think it would also depend somewhat on how much area is vented and where the grille openings are. So the bigger the hood vent and lower/more blocked off the front is and lower the car is, the less it makes sense to use an air dam.

But in general, I'd rather use the air dam to bias the underbody aero more forward and under the front axle. Like creating a bit of artificial rake to the overall body.

 

[TymeSlayer]

All this is above me but what effect running without the front splash shield have on the car?

 

[Grant 302]

All this is above me but what effect running without the front splash shield have on the car?

Before the radiator? Reduced cooling flow through the radiator is probably the worst part. Also less downforce ahead of the axle. So a bit less front end stability.

 

[TymeSlayer]

Grant,

I'm talking about the splash shield BR3Z-6C038-A. After installing the BMR K-member, this no longer fits and I have been running without it for five HPDE track days. I have not seen any increase in water temps.

 

[Grant 302]

Grant,

I'm talking about the splash shield BR3Z-6C038-A. After installing the BMR K-member, this no longer fits and I have been running without it for five HPDE track days. I have not seen any increase in water temps.

Removing that would just be a small increase in lift there and slightly more forward and a teeny increase in drag. The more rake you have, the smaller the change. That piece is already perforated with louvers. I wouldn't worry about not having it on there. Effects would be in the low single-digit lbf. range.

People with lowered/leveled cars could see a small benefit from taping up those louvers and sealing the panel to the K where possible on the back/hinged edge. That's about the extent I'd do at the underbody for everyone else. Going further back and closing more area than opening on the top or sides would likely cause cooling issues and significant increase in drag penalty.

 

[dabossinnne]

Perusing NASA Speed News online ran across this excellent article from 2014. Good stuff!
https://nasaspeed.news/tech/aero/un...-help-you-make-improvements-that-really-work/

 

[Boone]

You guys should check out C2 Customs out of Raleigh. I actually purchased Track spec vents specific for the S197, but I like the center vent better (one large vent). I found this guy and sent the track spec vents back. This is also less cost prohibitive! Worth a look, Adam is a good dude!
http://carterscustoms04.com

I drug this quote over from another thread to keep things cleaner (you're welcome mods). To appease the hard core guys immediately, there is no testing. No wings, but their mounts could be adapted to mount a wing if that's how you roll. Some of my street tire governing bodies frown on wings, so I'm a spoiler guy. That said, I know these guys, and they will be supplying the hood vent, splitter, and spoiler for my S197. They are pretty new to the scene, and are willing to work with us on design. My spoiler will mount to the existing trunk holes with 3D printed mounts and be adjustable and contoured. Splitter stops just short of the front axle line. Hood vent fits my aftermarket hood perfectly, and they will put a center line break in it and add a wicker bill to the front edge of it at my request.

Spencer Loye is working as their outside sales rep, and the company is hungry for business. PM me, and I'll give you his phone number.

 

[ChrisM]

I've also spoken to them a bit and can vouch that they are very customer-friendly, though I haven't bought anything from them yet. Will be interested in what you end up with from them Boone.

 

[flyhalf]

SO
Here's the question of the day.
What makes a splitter a good splitter?

I know there some common things like material fixation etc.

But
What imcrease the generation of Down force?

Is it how much poke out the front lip of the splitter?

Or is all about the part that is under the engine?

A pp1 2018 is really flat under with 2 front diffuser. (Ok more for the brakes but the air doesn't know what they are for)

Why a composite one is better than a pp1 splitter?



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[Badger]

The stock aero on the gt350 and pp1 is so simple but so good all things considered. It even comes with tunnels. Basically it check all the boxes of all the things I am trying to DIY onto my s197.

 

[flyhalf]

The stock aero on the gt350 and pp1 is so simple but so good all things considered. It even comes with tunnels. Basically it check all the boxes of all the things I am trying to DIY onto my s197.

The point is. Why a 2k $ is better than this?

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[neema]

The stock aero on the gt350 and pp1 is so simple but so good all things considered. It even comes with tunnels. Basically it check all the boxes of all the things I am trying to DIY onto my s197.

Badger are you going to graft/bolt on some AJ Hartman tunnels?

 

[Badger]

Badger are you going to graft/bolt on some AJ Hartman tunnels?

I`d very much like to. But currently the car is shaking like crazy with the splitter on. Nothing will happen until I found what`s causing this.
Don´t want to distract from Flyhalfs topic either.

 

[Daegoba]

EXPAND TO SEE MY ANSWERS TO ALL YOUR QUESTIONS!! I tried to answer each individually. Hope this helps.

SO
Here's the question of the day.
What makes a splitter a good splitter?

I know there some common things like material fixation etc.

But
What imcrease the generation of Down force?

Typically, it's more the surface area underneath the car the splitter/radiator pan/whatever covers. How wide it is and how far back it goes are all factors in regards to how the air moves underneath, and escapes from underneath the car. After the surface area, the angle the splitter is set at, and the angle of the radiator and/or belly pan is set in relation to that is where you'll see the largest changes after that.

Is it how much poke out the front lip of the splitter?

Yes, but the farther the splitter sticks out from the nose is to control the way the air moves over and around the nose (top side of the car). The downforce advantage comes from the larger surface area underneath.

Or is all about the part that is under the engine?

Mostly, yes.

A pp1 2018 is really flat under with 2 front diffuser. (Ok more for the brakes but the air doesn't know what they are for)

The flatter the surface area, the less "dirty" the air moving over that surface becomes. You want clean, flat planes for the air to move across, as opposed to a rough surface (nuts or bolts sticking down, holes or naca ducts, etc. Basically, anything that is not flat) which creates disruptions in the way the air flows over that particular surface.

Why a composite one is better than a pp1 splitter?

Aero really makes a difference above 100-110 mph. At those speeds, flimsy plastic pieces start to distort or buffer and change their shape (and thus, create that "dirty" air) due to the pressures the air puts on them. Composites are typically more of an advantage, because of the high rigidity of the material. They do not change shape near as easy as plastic, and hence, better control the air moving across the surface.


Take all this with a grain of salt. I've spent the last 15 years as a fabricator working in Aero R&D for NASCAR teams, but have almost no experience with "street car" Mustangs. I'm just providing some of the basic knowledge I've gleaned from being in the wind tunnels for hours upon hours with a bunch of engineers.

Possibly the most valuable thing I've learned over those years is that it's a package of things, and how they work together. There's no "one simple trick" that you can do to make or break you.



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EDIT - replies are difficult to read INSIDE the quote markers responses separated below:

SO
Here's the question of the day.
What makes a splitter a good splitter?

I know there some common things like material fixation etc.

But
What imcrease the generation of Down force?

Typically, it's more the surface area underneath the car the splitter/radiator pan/whatever covers. How wide it is and how far back it goes are all factors in regards to how the air moves underneath, and escapes from underneath the car. After the surface area, the angle the splitter is set at, and the angle of the radiator and/or belly pan is set in relation to that is where you'll see the largest changes after that.

Is it how much poke out the front lip of the splitter?

Yes, but the farther the splitter sticks out from the nose is to control the way the air moves over and around the nose (top side of the car). The downforce advantage comes from the larger surface area underneath.

Or is all about the part that is under the engine?

Mostly, yes.

A pp1 2018 is really flat under with 2 front diffuser. (Ok more for the brakes but the air doesn't know what they are for)

The flatter the surface area, the less "dirty" the air moving over that surface becomes. You want clean, flat planes for the air to move across, as opposed to a rough surface (nuts or bolts sticking down, holes or naca ducts, etc. Basically, anything that is not flat) which creates disruptions in the way the air flows over that particular surface.

Why a composite one is better than a pp1 splitter?

Aero really makes a difference above 100-110 mph. At those speeds, flimsy plastic pieces start to distort or buffer and change their shape (and thus, create that "dirty" air) due to the pressures the air puts on them. Composites are typically more of an advantage, because of the high rigidity of the material. They do not change shape near as easy as plastic, and hence, better control the air moving across the surface.


Take all this with a grain of salt. I've spent the last 15 years as a fabricator working in Aero R&D for NASCAR teams, but have almost no experience with "street car" Mustangs. I'm just providing some of the basic knowledge I've gleaned from being in the wind tunnels for hours upon hours with a bunch of engineers.

Possibly the most valuable thing I've learned over those years is that it's a package of things, and how they work together. There's no "one simple trick" that you can do to make or break you.