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MM Camber Plate Install

Thanks to everyone for posting -- it's helped a lot with various installs so far.

Just finished installing the MM Camber plates, and couldn't see any reference to tips, so thought I'd share my experience:

Overall the instructions provided are well detailed and very helpful. A couple of minor details not included in the instructions:
  • Step 9: Be sure to use a wrench on the back of the swaybar stud to prevent damage to the boot seal
  • Step 10/12: For those who have the brake cooling duct installed you need to remove the duct from the disc backing plate for clear access to the lower strut to spindle mounting bolt
  • Step 18: Re attaching the pivot bearing requires modest pressure to snap the plastic retainer ring in place


After you've used a spring compressor to compress the spring, by far the most difficult steps are Step 14 (removing the upper strut retaining nut) and it's reinstallation (Step 22). The issue is that the OEM upper struct mount is very deeply recessed, and you need to hold the M10 strut Rod while removing the 13/16" retaining nut. The spec requires a torque of 76lb-ft. None of my offset wrenches had anything close enough of a deep offset to access the 13/16" nut while providing access to the top of the strut (especially on the OEM plate which has a deeper offset than the replacement MM plate). I ended up putting the plate in a wide jaw vise to release the torque, and then used this tool to remove and replace the nut to the specified torque:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-offset-oxygen-sensor-wrench-97177.html

Also be sure to use a deep socket on the top of the strut -- with 76ft lb of torque a short socket or wrench will probably not hold without damage to the small diameter hex on the strut.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
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Arizona, USA
Yeah that part is a massive PITA if you intend to to it to spec; if you get the upper nut started by hand, then hit it with an impact while the spring compressor is still holding the spring, you should be OK. That is how we did mine and it worked great.

The 10mm strut shaft holding hexes are made of some soft material as well, rounded one of mine when trying to do it "right".
 
Thanks for the tips and link to that socket. I had a shop install mine along with FR 18000-C dampers and that socket is just what I need to check the tightness of the strut nut.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
For the top nut install, I've used a socket like the one second from the top left here:

http://www.harborfreight.com/oxygen-sensor-and-diesel-injection-socket-set-99850.html

I started by holding the 10mm hex with a 1/4" drive inside the socket drive hole. Then used a crescent on the socket outer hex. Once it was snug, switched to the torque wrench for final tightening.
 

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