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New boss owner

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,774
2,692
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
A little 3M high temp duct tape around the ducting in the rub area will do nicely. I only seemed to have a bit of rubbing on the drivers side and none on the passenger.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,869
4,133
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
TymeSlayer said:
A little 3M high temp duct tape around the ducting in the rub area will do nicely. I only seemed to have a bit of rubbing on the drivers side and none on the passenger.

+1

I use an orange tape I found at Walmart. Color is a close match.

When it wears a bit, I recover it.
 
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im between the jpc and McLeod clutch line .

Any1 tried McLeod or jpc clutch line ?? any difference ??

what is the clutch bleeder for (what is it bought for ?)

im buying stuff tonight
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,869
4,133
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
eng90 said:
im between the jpc and McLeod clutch line .

Any1 tried McLeod or jpc clutch line ?? any difference ??

what is the clutch bleeder for (what is it bought for ?)

im buying stuff tonight

On the clutch/bell housing there is no provision to bleed the slave cylinder. Ford designed the system to not have a high spot to collect air, like wheel cylinders and calipers do. To remove air you pump the pedal and the air works its way back to the master cylinder. To hasten the process you can apply vacuum to the master cylinder reservoir. This "Encourages" the air to move to the reservoir and out of the lines and slave cylinder. I have done this with and without vacuum. Both systems work. One is free. ;D

A "Bleeder" for clutch in our car is a vacuum pump and adapter for the reservoir.

Power bleeders are used for bleeding systems with bleeders at the wheel or slave cylinders. It adds fluid under pressure to the reservoir speeding up the process of bleeding the brakes. Some folks like them, some don't. I prefer simply pumping the brakes.

I have not heard of a "Bad" after market clutch line. FRPP is said to be the best....but expensive.
 
The shop recommended the JPC line for me when putting in the McLeod clutch. So, I went with JPC... i believe it was a $20-30 cheaper as well, and it comes with a clear hose over the SS line, which I believe the McLeod doesn't.
 
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F.D. Sako said:
The shop recommended the JPC line for me when putting in the McLeod clutch. So, I went with JPC... i believe it was a $20-30 cheaper as well, and it comes with a clear hose over the SS line, which I believe the McLeod doesn't.

I also think I want to get a jpc clutch line, but I haven't got any review about ppl who have used it.

But also McLeod looks like they know what they r doing since they work on mustangs trans parts and known for mustang trans since a long time
 
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guys I c a lot of ppl talk about skipshift. Can any1 explain what is it ? why ppl r bothered by it ??

any info about it would be useful im here to learn from u guys. THANKS >>> !!

u guys helped me a lot, wish I can bring that favor back 1 day . ;D ;D ;D
 
eng90 said:
guys I c a lot of ppl talk about skipshift. Can any1 explain what is it ? why ppl r bothered by it ??

any info about it would be useful im here to learn from u guys. THANKS >>> !!

u guys helped me a lot, wish I can bring that favor back 1 day . ;D ;D ;D

Not to worry...your '13 BOSS does not have skip shift!

Ship shift is a solenoid-activated feature intended for fuel economy purposes that forces you to shift from 1st to 4th gear below 3000 RPM (or thereabouts) during part throttle acceleration (WOT disables it...2012 BOSS owners can chime in here and provide more details). It's installed in the MY12 BOSS 302, but not MY13, so not a factor for you. It's easily disconnected for 2012 owners, though.
 
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by next month ill be doing a custom over axle pipes .

What u see is the better to go to .. 2.75" or 3" ?? u know I have 1 7/8 Long tubes with catted x.

Is the over axle pipes different in dimensioning (other than the diameter ) than the oem ones ?

Would the jpc or lethal performance be better than the custom made ones ? Quality, fitment, performance wise.

Here we have new mendral bend machine which is new and I think it would cost less than buying pipes and shipping them to my place.
 
eng90 said:
by next month ill be doing a custom over axle pipes .

What u see is the better to go to .. 2.75" or 3" ?? u know I have 1 7/8 Long tubes with catted x.

Is the over axle pipes different in dimensioning (other than the diameter ) than the oem ones ?

Would the jpc or lethal performance be better than the custom made ones ? Quality, fitment, performance wise.

Here we have new mendral bend machine which is new and I think it would cost less than buying pipes and shipping them to my place.

Just posting my opinion on this but I feel maintaining some form of back pressure after your headers is important on a N/A motor and thus I wouldn't go bigger then 2.75" diameter pipes.

I'm running the JPC over axle pipes (ie..resonator deletes) on my car and was very pleased with their fitment and build quality. As an added bonus, they were quite a bit lighter then the OEM pipes they replaced. No doubt this was due to the JPC pipes using a thinner wall diameter on the pipes but I'm not concerned with their durability as it still appears more then sufficient.

One thing to also keep in mind when choosing a pipe diameter for your over axle pipes is the clearance between the axle and the under body of the car where the pipe wraps over/around before attaching to the muffler. If you ever intend to lower the car you may have a fitment battle on your hands with a 3" pipe depending on how far the car is lowered.

I'm pretty sure the JPC pipes are 2.75" diameter and at least on my car that was about as big a pipe I could fit under there without rubbing. FWIW, my car is lowered a little over 1.5" in the back to give you an idea on what works with a 2.75" pipe.
 
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2013dibgt said:
Just posting my opinion on this but I feel maintaining some form of back pressure after your headers is important on a N/A motor and thus I wouldn't go bigger then 2.75" diameter pipes.

I'm running the JPC over axle pipes (ie..resonator deletes) on my car and was very pleased with their fitment and build quality. As an added bonus, they were quite a bit lighter then the OEM pipes they replaced. No doubt this was due to the JPC pipes using a thinner wall diameter on the pipes but I'm not concerned with their durability as it still appears more then sufficient.

One thing to also keep in mind when choosing a pipe diameter for your over axle pipes is the clearance between the axle and the under body of the car where the pipe wraps over/around before attaching to the muffler. If you ever intend to lower the car you may have a fitment battle on your hands with a 3" pipe depending on how far the car is lowered.

I'm pretty sure the JPC pipes are 2.75" diameter and at least on my car that was about as big a pipe I could fit under there without rubbing. FWIW, my car is lowered a little over 1.5" in the back to give you an idea on what works with a 2.75" pipe.

thank you for sharing the info !, that really helps thanks. do u think it gave u extra hp and tq too ?

What ur saying is right, I have big headers and 3 inch x so I donno if it would lower the car's performance or give it an extra push.. how about the sound difference ?

I think with my boltons I would make a hell of a loud noise and I don't want that.
 
eng90 said:
thank you for sharing the info !, that really helps thanks. do u think it gave u extra hp and tq too ?

What ur saying is right, I have big headers and 3 inch x so I donno if it would lower the car's performance or give it an extra push.. how about the sound difference ?

I think with my boltons I would make a hell of a loud noise and I don't want that.

I don't think I could look anyone in the eye with a straight face and tell them there was a gain in HP/TQ from the resonator delete pipes alone but out here on the Internet where anything is possible some claim to see 2-3HP from the removal of the factory resonators. I swapped out the resonators and axle back at the same time so in my case I did feel a difference but YMMV.

If you take the HP/TQ gain info with several grains of salt like I do and combine it with the undeniable gain in exhaust note (for the better, IMO) and then you add in the bonus of dropping a few extra /lbs of weight from the car you can't help but feel good about the whole ordeal in the end. ;)

Lastly, I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't experience any droning by removing the resonators. This combined with the Ford Motorsport "Sport" axle back exhaust made for a nice, deep, old school muscle car sound that I can happily live with on a daily basis in all driving conditions. Keep in mind though, I am still using the factory H Pipe and CAT's so in your case you will no doubt hear a bigger increase in noise while using long tubes and 3" X pipe.
 

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