Removing the Stock Oil Cooler, what is needed?

[576]

As an FYI on the Mishimoto thermostatic plate: (2) 1/8" sensor ports. (2) oil cooler ports. Thermostat is designed to restrict oil flow to the cooler until temperature is reached. The cooler circuit is not completely bypassed when the thermostat is not open. I am using this as the base to the oil cooler kit on my car. I am eliminating the stock water to oil cooler. Will use oil temp. and pressure gauges and possibly a dedicated low oil pressure "idiot" light. I spoke with Setrab about mounting positions. They recommended a vertical position with inlet at the bottom/ outlet at the top to maximize the cooler performance. I'm going with the 934. Should be plenty for my application. Just about have all my parts gathered up. -10 stainless braided line with a thermotec sleeve for abrasion resistance more than heat isolation. Braided line can really chew through anything it contacts. Not a cheap build, but cheaper than the Ford Racing or Cooltech.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I spoke with Setrab about mounting positions. They recommended a vertical position with inlet at the bottom/ outlet at the top to maximize the cooler performance. I'm going with the 934. Should be plenty for my application.

Did they add anything else as to why the suggested the inlet at the bottom? I would think you'd want it at the top to let gravity help with the flow. Did Setrab also think the 934 has plenty of capacity for this application?

 

[06mach1]

Did they add anything else as to why the suggested the inlet at the bottom? I would think you'd want it at the top to let gravity help with the flow. Did Setrab also think the 934 has plenty of capacity for this application?

My mount is made to have both the inlet and the outlet at the bottom. And here is a pic of the Mishimoto plate. Note the fancy container! It looks like a nice piece. I don't think it will work with the factory cooler though, not that any one is going to use it in that position. The o-ring side is too small for the factory oil cooler inlet and outlet holes. The o-ring on the plate is actually a little bit smaller in diameter than the oil filter o-ring.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Sounds like the orientation was recommended solely based on cooling. My understanding is, if the inlet is at the bottom, the fluid will flow upwards, against gravity slower, which means the fluid will spend more time through the heat exchanger resulting in better cooling. It might be up to us to find out if pressure/flow is affected enough to have a negative impact.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Sounds like the orientation was recommended solely based on cooling. My understanding is, if the inlet is at the bottom, the fluid will flow upwards, against gravity slower, which means the fluid will spend more time through the heat exchanger resulting in better cooling. It might be up to us to find out if pressure/flow is affected enough to have a negative impact.

That almost makes sense!

Mike is that the unit from ebay? Which oil filter do we need to use with the Mishimoto plate?

 

[576]

I did some research on various mounting positions of oil coolers on different makes of cars. A number of oem coolers tended to inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top if packaging allowed. Of course cost always comes into account with oem. With that I decided to contact Setrab for some advice. They stated inlet bottom would maximize the ability of the cooler to remove heat. As far as sufficient cooling ability, I described my use as a mostly daily driven car used for 4-5 track days a year. My goal with this is to separate the two cooling systems: oil & coolant. I also wanted to have regulation of temperature when the engine is cold, which the Mishi plate seems to provide. The up/ down mounting was the "Best" solution for my application. It was also interesting to note that the properties usually applied to the "Closed" engine cooling system do not altogether apply to oil cooing as the engine oil is an "Open" system. One question I had was aeration or air pockets at the top of the cooler. Does not apply with oil cooler application. They also informed me that while you can drain the cooler during oil service it is not necessary because the oil filter has already scrubbed the oil. Of course if you have a failure or suspect an internal engine issue you want to drain, flush everything in the system. Overall good information. I believe the 934 should add about 1 quart capacity. Looking at the 934 I would not want to go much larger for the simple fact of packaging/ mounting. I am curious to see temperature and pressure readings once everything is installed. I think I will mount the cooler to the drivers side and run the lines accordingly. There seems to be adequate space in that area. This should keep the lines relatively short and not routed underneath the radiator. Earlier in the thread it was mentioned to use the vacuum coolant refill method. A big yes. I have done this for years in my work. Saves time and eliminates the "Burp" method. You also know very quickly if you have a leak or another cooling system component that is suspect. By the way, how did the roll bar install go?

 

[576]

Same oil filter.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Great info thanks. How are you going to mount the cooler?

You mean how is the roll bar install going? : It's taking me a lot longer than I thought. While I can handle a wrench just fine I don't have a lot of experience with fabrication so I tend to over think things. Anyway the bar is mostly in but I won't get a chance to finish it up until the following weekend. BTW my plates for the support bars didn't line up out of the box so my die grinder has been getting a workout. I also had sub frame clearance problems with the nut plates in the gussets so that took some time too.

 

[576]

Hey Rick. Yeah, I ran into the same deal with the roll bar. Rear bar plates needed some significant grinder work. Really nice once everything is in. Cool thing is, I think I could bolt it back in in less than a hour. I haven't got the cooler mounts yet, but I ordered up the Setrab standard mounts. I figure its a good starting point. I think the radiator core support and Laguna splitter support bar may just line up. If not some steel stock and fab will make up the difference. I think the reply on the oil being force up through the cooler a slightly slower rate therefore cooling better is the answer to the top/ bottom cooler mounting. I would contact Setrab with your idea. I was pleasantly surprised with the quick response to my specific question. If I think of it, I will try to have one of my kids/ supervisors take some pics when I get to the cooler install.

 

[Black Boss]

At the track today, having eliminated the Stock water-oil cooler and replaced with a 34 row setrab air-oil cooler. I eliminated the thermostat on advice from the Ford Racing guys. Testing On the street and early in the track session (after idling in the pits for 10 minutes) Oil and Water Temps were close, but by the end of the 20 minute session Coolant was just over 200F and Oil was 270F. Am now questioning if the 34 row is big enough, as ambient temp was only 43F........

 

[steveespo]

At the track today, having eliminated the Stock water-oil cooler and replaced with a 34 row setrab air-oil cooler. I eliminated the thermostat on advice from the Ford Racing guys. Testing On the street and early in the track session (after idling in the pits for 10 minutes) Oil and Water Temps were close, but by the end of the 20 minute session Coolant was just over 200F and Oil was 270F. Am now questioning if the 34 row is big enough, as ambient temp was only 43F........

Wow that is surprising. I will be running my car with the same configuration next week only with a t stat in place as well. I'll post my results but looks like the stock cooler is pretty efficient, if leak prone.
Steve

 

[Black Boss]

Warmer temperatures today after a long winter Temperatures hit 54F at the Track Car ran great!!

Water Temp peaked at 216, Oil at 275 with the 34 row air/oil cooler and stock cooler removed. Am ordering the 302S 48 row cooler.........

Look forward to hearing Steve's results.

 

[steveespo]

Black Boss
Are you reading the temperature per cooler or post cooler? Are you running the 302S grille? I never ran warmer than 245 with the OEM/FRPP cooler combo, if I see 275 degrees I'm gonna be pissed. Also what oil are you running?

Did you improve your lap times at the track?

Steve

 

[Black Boss]

Black Boss
Are you reading the temperature per cooler or post cooler? Are you running the 302S grille? I never ran warmer than 245 with the OEM/FRPP cooler combo, if I see 275 degrees I'm gonna be pissed. Also what oil are you running?

Did you improve your lap times at the track?

Steve

Steve,

Temperature is pre cooler, so likely highest location to read. Am running a dremmeled 302S Grille and Castrol Edge Synthetic 5W50 Oil.

Lap times were about a second quicker than last fall -- Lower temps, and first time the track had been used this year, but I'm now running coil-overs. I'd expect that would be about 2 seconds at least on a warm, fully rubbered in track. A lot of the track is at max rpm in 3rd, and 4th.

The reason I moved to this config was a) Leaks from the Water/Air Cooler, and b) Coolant Temps of 240F in very high ambients.

 

[06mach1]

With the factory cooler, I have been running 260-265 after the cooler. I would think you must be less than that if you were taking the temp after the 934 cooler. Is it possible that the cooler could have an air pocket in it?

 

[steveespo]

I don't think you can trap air in the oiling system, it's open to the atmosphere through the PCV or breathers so the oil always pushes the air out.
Faster pace would explain some extra temp, the oil heat is all about RPM so the more speed you carry the more heat generated. That is a good problem to have 8)
My car has always run cool, so I'll see how it does next Saturday, 275 isn't the end of the world but I like it at 250 much better.
Steve

 

[Black Boss]

I don't think there's an air pocket. The system needed nearly a quart of extra oil to fill initially and the whole cooler runs hot.

My car has always run hot. Part of the reason I switched was to lower coolant and CHT temps. That seems to have worked, although I have yet to run at 90F ambient. I may have to end up with the 45 row cooler and no grille - race car look 8)

 

[2012-Boss]

Black Boss
Are you reading the temperature per cooler or post cooler? Are you running the 302S grille? I never ran warmer than 245 with the OEM/FRPP cooler combo, if I see 275 degrees I'm gonna be pissed. Also what oil are you running?

Did you improve your lap times at the track?

Steve

My oil temps hit 270 at VIR two weeks ago. The temperature was 55 - 65. I have the Setrab 172 / Cool Tech oil cooler and the OEM cooler.

I am monitoring the oil temps pre-cooler, so they are comparable to those seeing temps in the 240 range who are monitoring post cooler using the OEM pressure port. For example, ArizonaBoss and Cloud9 have temps in the 240s monitoring post cooler.

Smitty has stated his oil temps are 270 plus in his 302S.

I would like to get my temps lower. I am replacing my 302S grille with a billet grille. I am hoping the extra airflow will help.

If that does not work, I will install a 948 cooler next winter.

 

[576]

I just finished mounting up my 934 cooler and noticed with everything back together that direct air flow to the cooler is limited by the bumper. Does not seem to matter how you mount the cooler same issue. Although you guys seems to use your cars mainly for track days, I'm wondering if a simple brake duct cut down with a short hose directed to the bottom of the oil cooler may help get some air directed to the cooler. Of course this will marginally steal air going to the radiator unless the duct is mounted to the side some how. I'm going to try it without and see what my temps are. Thanks for sharing the real world info.

 

[Domestic Product]

Watching with interest, the oil to air kits you have put together are awesome. I think they are a vast improvement over the stock unit. (Vorshlag refers to the stock units as oil heaters.)
I'm thinking that most of the heat dissipated from the new oil to air cooler is now in the engine bay. Heating up everything.
Thinking a high flow grill, a 2013 GT500 fan and a venting hood would go along way in lowering water and oil temps along with this new oil cooler set up.
Short of a new hood on the 12s has any one tried to install 2013 vents in a 2012 hood ?




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